260Zed

Please correct me if im wrong, but wouldn't the clearcoat burn off? I agree that polishing just leads to more polishing. :dead:

Pistons, not carbs. I remember getting told they were about $100 a peice, not quoted. Just remember hearing that somewhere...

Bloody marvellous post! Long winded, but quality. Cheers Wayne!

As Halz said, it's too much with an L28. Not that ive got the cash, but i would only pay that amount if it was mint original, or maybe im tight. Will be interesting to see how many bids he gets...

I used some .1mm plastic sheeting available from my local hardware. There was some thicker sheets there but I thought I wouldnt have to go back into the door for a while (how wrong I was). I used small dabs of silastic adhesive sealant to attach. Cost me about $4.00 a metre. So $8.00 for twoo doors.

Just think of how much worse it could have been! As long as you got away with the rear bumper I think you got off lucky! 2 days ago some moron reversed into my drivers front guard. And being the careful, responsible person the were DID'NT leave a note. It was a nice dent to greet me in the morning. So in a way, your lucky it all went on while you were there. Good luck with the repairs.

Mech fuel pump was working fine when on car (my pictures suck!)

260z coil, dizzy + ballast resistor. Was working when on car, but could do with a new set of points

Hotwires, 14x7 with steelie spare w/rubber (90%)

Used, couple of scratches $25

It's about time I got rid of some of the bits ive accumulated. All are used. Sold as is. Can post some of the smaller items if needed. But don't really want too :stupid: Clear Headlight covers $25 Hotwire Mags 14x7 + steel spare w/rubber $100 260z Coil, dizzy and ballast resistor (needs new points) $40 Mech Fuel pump $20 280zx Factory service manual (as new) $50 Located in Brisbane, PM me if interested. Cheers Luke

I wired mine so as when the alternator circuit drops out (When engine stops) it cuts the circuit to the fuel pump. Should work fine as long as when i crash, the engine stops! I also mounted it in the engine bay so it pulls the fuel. Haven't had any probs with it mounted this way, although if my 75 had the wiring to the rear, I prolly would have put it there. Good luck Luke

Ill be there!...If I can fix/replace my tacho before then. Luke

Actually Nitrile is a better material to use with petroleum (Gas) and petroleum based fluids than neoprene. A sort of good - better relationship. FWIW

How much for both bumpers?

Sounds like fun!

Yeah, I put an RX-7 pump on my 75 260Z, works great. Took me a while to find one though, ended up getting a almost new (couldn't smell fuel on it, all shiny too!) for $50 from a mazda wrecker. Make sure you get it off a carbed RX7. (series1-2?). I've been told that it is quieter than most aftermarket pumps. There weren't any carbed 280's and im not sure if later 260's had an electric pump or not. Mine didn't have wiring for it or anything. Anybody else? Luke

Great, yeah these will be for street use. Cheers

I am changing from my 14 x 7 rims to a 14 x 6. I have got 215/60/14. I know these tyres will fit, but do you think the increased tyre wall roll will be noticable? Edit: Ill give you a bit more information, I am changing to the 280zx six spoke rims, which i thought were 14 x 6 (?). Is it possible/advisable to get these rims altered to be 7' wide? Thanks for your help. Luke

The "Handle Escutcheon (chrome)" I believe is the interior backing piece behind the door relase lever, normailly gets scratched or cracked. Held in by a little screw. I normally call it a door handle thingo. :stupid: BTW is that something they meke, or they just have a spare? Fwiw Luke

My first question when I was looking was "why are you selling it?". After only a month I'd doubt he'd know any real problems with the car, how long ago it was painted etc. Glass on the frame rails sounds scary. Is it in patches or all the way along? What about taking a decent bar magnet along with a bit of felt (so the owner doesn't get funny) and check that the rails and panels are all even? Just seems wierd that if its in such good nick, that he's going to go thru the trouble of selling it to get another... Oh well, second ahnd cars are full of unknown quantities :stupid: good luck :classic: Luke

Looks like you've got your priorities around the wrong way! jk:tapemouth I went halves with my parents for my first car (read POS). It lasted 12 months then I got a loan and got a Zx. paid that, went os, came back with money and found a nice 260. But I'm not a teen anymore. I agree with the pennies saved when you have no debts, ala at home etc

just people calling their l28 powered 240z id assume

Hey everyone, Today I finished my tacho swap. For our U.S mates they can easily grab a 280Z electronic/trigger tacho and rid themselves of the inductive loop type, easy. Unfortunatley we dont have that option. So when my 260Z loop tacho started playing up (periodically working, bouncy etc) I didnt feel like finding/paying for on that could crap out just as easily. After hunting the yards I found that a 77 240k sedan had the similar tacho face, but most importantly the same gap/distance between rpm units. When I got the cluster out I found it was a latter style pulse tacho. All set up on a circuit board. So I got the tacho for $30. Anyways to the good bits, you have to remove the needle and face off the 240k tacho, switch the tacho guts upside down, fit original 240/260z face and needle. Thats all nice and easy. Then I found that it's a little longer than the original, which means it doesnt quite fit in the original case thing :stupid: . So I moved the circuitry from the back of the tacho to fit on top of the tacho's guts. Fits in sweet then. Screw holes and all. Then wire up your new feed and hey presto! So now I've got a original looking tacho with newer guts. Works great now, seems much smoother as well. Just an option if anyone wants to replace theirs with a more modern design. Gimme a yell if I missed anything... Luke