byunique

Hi - I just pulled out my late model 81-83 5 speed our of my 240, and plan to swap in a good used one. My old tranny always had trouble shifting between 1st and 2nd under hard acceleration and I would just like to inspect it to feed my curiosity. I have checked my manual and it seems pretty straightforward. I have removed all the bolts from the tail shaft and the circlip/bolt which holds the mechanism for the shifter. From the manual it seems I am just to bang on it until the tail shaft comes apart. It doesn't seem so easy, so just wanted to see if there is any advice to separate it. I am pretty sure I have the necessary bolts/hardware removed since I have read the manual. Should I try and jig up the tranny and try twisting the tailshaft off? or keep banging? Perhaps add some heat from a propane torch? I am guessing its going to be stubborn. Thanks!

Just took some footage of cars leaving the event. I always appreciate the different sounds that Z cars make. Thanks for all that were in the video...! Brandon

I am selling a Pertronix on Ebay if anyone else wants do this conversion. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pertronix-1761-70-73-Datsun-240z-No-Points_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQihZ001QQitemZ110150485519QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I have 3 x 44 Mikunis, and recently noticed that one of the bores on one of the carbs has lower a lower vacuum reading compared to rest of the bores. This is taken with a Synchrometer which is very consistent/accurate. This one bore measures a vacuum level of "3" compared to "5" on the rest of the bores at idle. I have since moved the carbs around to isolate whether its a carb problem or not, and the problem goes with the carb as I swap the carbs around. I have since pulled the carb out, dis-assembled everything, blown everything out with compressed air, checked the jets etc. I have also swapped the position of the jets, and top cover (including floats) to see whether I had a clogged jet or something, but nothing has changed for the better. The only thing I can think of is the throttle plate is not consistent in terms of clearances from bore to bore. As far as I can visibly tell, they pretty much look the same, and consistent in terms of where you can see the light come through. Chokes, auxilary venturi, position/seating looks good too. Any other ideas guys?

I remember having a Mityvac, it sure took a lot of effort to get the fluids going. It was quicker to do the tube method as everyone has mentioned.

What did you set the timing at? Did you recently buy some off brand gas? Any weather changes?

Yeah, I know the thread is old, so just passing on some info in case someone else comes upon this thread.

I would say 30/32 chokes should be fine on a mild L28. 30's definitely shouldn't be a problem, but can't say if a 32 is too much without knowing if you have a header/cam/headwork, etc. If anything it's possible some top end power may be sacrificed. I think the air of 210 with a 135 main is a bit large and it may be lean on the top end. I think there's a general rule to go with a spread of "50" on the air correction jet. If anything, play it a bit safe and go rich.

I checked my Mikuni manual to see what jets came in the 40s, and would consider sizes very close to these. I would try and stick with more conversative venturi size and opt for larger venturis later if it all works out. A 36 is pretty large on a mild engine. As I recall, these sizes are similar to the 40 dcoe webers I used to have as well. I doubt you will hit everything right the first time, but heres a good starting point. main jet 140 main air jet 180 pilot jet 57.5 venturi 32mm pump nozzle 40

Geez, and I have been holding off spending a few grand for a fuel injection system.

Header wrap can cause moisture to gather, eventually causing your headers to rust and blow holes. Do the heat shield for sure.

HOT HOT HOT. The only time my car has registered that high is when it was having cooling issues. Especially the 3rd picture. BTW, one time I had a 160deg thermostat, don't think it was Nissan but it was still too hot for a summer day down in Los Angeles. Swapping do a different 160 deg thermostat with larger diameter solved all of my cooling issues! Couldn't believe the night/day difference. Both were aftermarket new items too.

Fresh car.. Wow. Its definetely on of the finest low mileage cars I have ever seen. I guess if didn't want a project car and wanted to end up with something cherry with no labor then its worth the price.

Keep in mind, I had brought in my entire engine. He kept the block with the crack in it, giving me a different block. I had all the other parts not listed above.

re: 3.0, 278 HP, 260ftlbs TQ (at the crank) Ended up costing $4150. I allready had the ported N42 head and 3 x Mikunis. That included doing some flow testing, and valve job. My head was not reworked, it flowed pretty well allready. Some of the numbers for labor seem a bit strange, but the cost in parts/dyno tune is a good reference anyway. BTW, he said I was gettting a "deal". Breakdown: 1) parts: pistons, rings, LD28 crank, gasket, bearings, oil pump, timing kit, cam, arp bolts, rods, plugs, oil, gas for dyno testing. $1664 2) Labor: dyno tune: $500 flow testing: $420 build stroker: $1000 clean/hone block, polish crank, rod work $410 waste fee + tax: $152.28 P.S the experience would have been great, but had to get the car working for the Motorsport Show.

He didn't have a exact answer. He said it was one of those chicken before the egg things. ... not sure weather the gasket got blown out causing the motor to overheat, then cracking the wall... or possibly bad gasket causing water to enter the cylinder and then causing a crack. I ended up getting a stroked 3.0, which I SHOULD have gotten a long time ago

Getting thumbs up and head nods when you are driving it. Not slowing down for freeway onramps, while the guy in your rear view seems to disappear all of a sudden. Being able to work on it, because its EASY to. Driving it because its a driver's car. Oh yea, and getting on the freeway at 6500rpm+

Awesome place. Loved the lake, liked walking on grass instead of hot pavement. Made looking under cars a lot easier too. If anything, the entry time into the park could have been improved. It seemed checking in could have been quicker, but tons improved from before. It was SO much easier queueing the cars in their respective areas. Yes, the place had CLASS!!! , but no cell reception AFAIK

Be sure to setup a heat shield too! Carbs don't like getting hot.

Looks very comfortable for a family of 4! How cool.

Just a update to this.... I took the head and block down to Dave Rebello http://www.rebelloracing.com and he could not find a problem with the head. There ended up being a 3" crack in the cylinder wall!!! Its a good thing that I didn't just rely on a leakdown test nor just replaced the head gasket. I personally didn't look the closely at the cylinder wall when I took the motor apart nor woud have thought to look there for any water problems. Well, lesson well learned. He said its pretty rare but has happened to one of his previous customers before. They had replaced the head, and the problem was still happening after they did the work. So, lesson learned from the pros thats for sure. Needless to say, now I am considering rebuilding the entire motor and doing a upgrade in the process

It goes underneath the bucket on my car, sorry the bumper conceals it on my 73. Would recommend a bracket to support it, since it will sag over time especially with high speed driving.

Its been a long time, but would say the tone is more mid-toned. Less throaty than a traditional turbo muffler, but certainly not a high pitched sound like I thought it to be. My friend had something like this on a small v6 (capri), and it made a nice higher pitched sound, so thought I would achieve this on the Z, but didn't.

Thanks everybody for their in put. I will be taking the head to the shop soon to have it checked out and will post the findings here.

Jeremey - I appreciate the sympathy . I guess the pressure test is really not that accurate. Wonder if there is a way for a shop to inspect it more accurately... I take it the car has been running a while since you did the work?