byunique

Yeah, I did mean that I was going to remove the tranny to get to everything. I just wanted to make the distinction everything is in the car. Yeah, impact wrench would be for untorquing only..

Everytime I grab 2nd gear at high rpm, (6500+), the gear crunches as if I wasn't engaging he clutch properly. I have drag raced before, and it has caused me to miss the shift as well. It has gotten worse over time, and only happens when engaging 2nd gear. Sometimes when driving in traffic and things heat up, it's sometime hard even to shift into 2nd as well. If I shift into 3rd from 1st for a brief moment then that will allow me to get into 2nd. I have a strong feeling that the synchro is shot. Anyone can confirm this kind of experience? Is it more cost effective just to buy a used tranny instead of having someone tear it down and trying to replace/rebuild it? It's a late model 5 speed. Thanks

I just picked up a lightweight flywheel and want to swap out my lightened flywheel while motor/tranny is still on the car. I wanted to get some advice before I do this, and don't want to go through the aggravation of screwing it up or having to re-do it for whatever reason. I plan to do this in my garage, with the floor jack and jack stands, and have use of a impact wrench as well for the any heavy duty torquing if needed. The centerforce dual friction clutch has been in there about 8 years, and is working well. The clutch tends to be a bit grabby so I know the flywheel probably needs to be surfaced. I am generally nice to my clutch and don't just drop it at 5000rpms everytime I am out. Yeah, I have gotten some good use out of it, and it doesn't slip at all. I just wanted to get some advice on how best to do this and what I should look for when I take it all apart. I want to do this job once and do it right. I am considering buying new throwout bearing, clutch collar, clutch disc if anything appears worn. The Flywheel I am getting is a sub 11 lb all streel Trust flywheel from Japan. Thanks for the advice!

Has anyone installed the sprint/speed series of seat? Just wondering what mounting parts I will need to install them in my 73. I would like to adjust vertically, as well as maintain slideability. Thanks in advance, Brandon

I have had 2 sets of MSA headers. My first one I had covered with the thermal tape to keep the heat away from the mikuni carbs, but eventually the tape caused the header to rust and eventually puncture. I then bought another header and sent it to Jet Hot myself (believe I paid $150) to have it coated (lighter coat) and it is going strong for about 10 years now. The stuff keeps the header alive!!!

Well compared to most turbo mufflers which sound fat, the borla sounds more mid toned at idle and makes the motor sound really tight at the top end. Can't remember the exact model, but here is what it looks like compared to a turbo Dynomax. I have been told my motor sounds great. I wish I had a audio clip! http://www.brandonyu.com/pics/z/myproject/borla.jpg

too many others have the same setup, might as well buy the piping but perhaps try a different muffler. The piping is nice since it is aluminized and mandrel bent. I like my borla stainless muffler....

Sorry, ended up ordering on from http://www.zcarsource.com. I couldn't wait, any longer, but did discover this great place for Zparts as well as great service, which I can recommend.!

Anyone have a mustache bar laying around? I would like to drop in my R180 LSD this weekend, and trying to source this part this week. Let me know how much you want for it? Am in Bay Area, CA. Thanks, Brandon

I could use mustache bar and halfshafts for the R180. Any availability?

Am planning on swapping my R200 open diff to go back to R180 LSD. I would either swap the parts with someone who needs the R200 parts or buy outright the R180 mustache bar and halfshafts.

Am planning on going back to R180 from my R200. So I have mustache bar, and halfshafts if you are interested in trading. Do you have the R180 parts?

What length is it? Still have it?

Do you still have this?