byunique

How difficult is it to swap a ring and pinion in a R-200? I wanted to change my 3.90 to something like a 4.44. I know 4.11 is available in a 200sx turbo, but I wanted to go higher. Motorsport does have the speedo correction gears BTW, they are about $15...

Yes, Royce is correct about the tunnel cutting. My 73 with late model 5 speed required no tunnel modifications.

I converted my 73's seats to Fiero Seats. Remember the old Pontiac Fiero? A telltale sign of the seats is the speakers in the headrest. Don't expect any high fi sound from the speakers by the way, they really are designed for a car that can't mount speakers anywhere. I had saw somebody else do this conversion and he said they bolted right in. Well, not too bad. The front holes are pretty much right on, the original holes had to be enlarged a little. The rear holes are shifted about an inch, but you can easily fabricate a simple bracket to make this work.The best thing about these seats is that they were $150 from the junkyard and they were very fresh...like new and grey. The seats also fit the car very well, the are on the slimmer side and have good side bolstering, and they have a tilt mechanism which is very easy to use. The amount of padding is very good, but too much, and the ability to tilt easily makes long distance driving a breeze. If will post some pics if you still interested.

Guys - My car has a wheel vibration at highway speeds. It sounds like it is coming from the driver side front wheel. My first thought, was that I had a worn wheel bearing or excessive play in there. To try and solve the problem, I have replaced wheel bearings, and made sure I had the correct bearing play, which didn't help. Around town I don't here it, and it is only at 55+ mph it happens, and it doesn't get better at higher speeds. It seems if I were to steer quickly to side to side, the sound stops for a sec. I have since jacked up the car and moved the wheel back and forth checking for tie rod endplay. The thing I found is the passenger's side tierod seems to have much more play than the driver side, and were are not talking much here, on the order of 3mm or so, but there is definetely a difference. The play is not coming from the tierod itself, but within the rack. The next thing for I was gonna do was to R & R the rack, but before I do that, I thought I would get some of your guys thoughts. Thanks, Brandon Yu

Regarding the cam, I used to have a 304 duration, .525 lift cam. Because the motor was not high compression, that was a huge mistake (installed by my mechanic). At the time it was just a basic 240 block with E88 head with triple webers. Also, the power range is really weak below 4500 rpm. Once you hit 4500, it takes off wildly, but figure you have to build the engine to pull past 7000 rpm if you want a decent powerband. Su carbs will also not flow well at that rate, so triple carbs will be inevitable. Yes, it is a big cam, and with a light flywheel, it is going to idle very rough.

Here is my speaker mounted in the door with the big spacer, the tweeters are surface mount ones mounted above, sorry forgot to take pic of that! Here is the 6x9's sunk into the storage bins and the amp behind the passenger seat.

will this picture that Mike gave me post?

Image should show here....