Everything posted by byunique
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- New Exhaust
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firewall work
- door rust
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Have you Seen/Installed "The Simpson Dash"?
I was just at zfest.org out in Fremont, CA and I saw some vendors there that had a prototype of a Z dash in fiberglass. It was a duplicate shape of the Z, but without all the insulation of course. They were saying it would save about 34lbs of weight, and it was going to be in production soon for about $350. It looked pretty good for a prototype ( a bit rough ) but almost there. You may want to check with these guys if you are interested. I also know they are going to build a carbon fiber model for the ultimate in weight savings!!! PDK Fabrication http://www.pdkfabrication.bravepages.com 760-724-0144 pdkfabrication@cox.net
- MSA 2002
- MSA 2002
- MSA 2002
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How many miles can a L24 engine last.
My buddies 70 was on about 225K w/o the bottom end being touched. The only reason he rebuilt it was to get more power. It wasn't burning oil, and it ran pretty good.
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Triple carb install = won't start!!??
I have had the 40 webers and currently run the 44 mikunis on my motor. I have had these carbs for over 10 years and have spent countless hours playing on them. Our engines are similar; I have the schneider cam, N42 head, similar displacement but a header but not much difference there. Your initial settings jet settings for the carbs look about right as far as a baseline goes. If anything, there is no reason it should bog. Generally, with these carbs the smaller chokes create a faster velocity airflow in the engine. Going to larger and larger chokes usually creates that bog. Larger choke sizes create the largest volume of air for high rpm max power, but are a detriment to off idle 0-6000 rpm response. That 30 choke should have no bog whatsoever.From your posting, I understand the problem you are having is with the popping. This has happened to me upon acceleration/deacceleration because of having a leaness in the idle circuit. This popping is coming from the carb right, as opposed to the exhaust. If it is related to the exhaust, then you have to hook your exhaust up and see how it runs. Your 3/4 turn out of the idle mixture screw sounds very suspicious. My carbs have always had 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns. The fact that your plugs are burnt is also a indicator of leaness The idle mixture circuit has a huge affect upon driveability, much more than I ever though. I always think of the idle circuit of having responsibility from 0-3500rpms in conjunction with the accelerator pump and main circuit. As far as accelerator jet and stroke go, if there is too much stroke or the pump is too rich, this usually causes a rich condition, but not so rich as to ever cause a bog. It is just one of those circuits which is not that sensitive to change. I would check out the idle adjustment. Turn them out and keep on turning them out until the motor reaches the highest idle speed, once the motor starts slowing down, then turn them in until the idle picks up again and leave them there. As far as jets go, I think you may go to 1.50main/2.00air at maximum, and depending how many rpms you want to run, you may want to go with a larger choke size down the line. But for now, you shouldn't be having major problems even with your current setup. Did you ever just blip the carbs with gas in them and watch the gas shoot out of the carbs? I know you have done a lot of work on these carbs, and perhaps something in the accel pump is out of alignment. With everything setup right, you should see a steady stream of gas shoot out of the carbs. And each barrel's stream should be very consistent. Just for reference, here are the settings on my 44 mikunis, keeping in mind my max rpm is 7300, and I have a 2.8 motor Main: 160 Air: 210 Idle: 57.5 Venturi: 37 Accel Pump: 50 Idle Adjust: 1.5 turns out
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Triple carb install = won't start!!??
I have had those o-ring gaskets and one thing I want to say is once you get them in there and torque it down. If you ever take it apart, the rubber o rings no longer fit into the spacers. You really have a heck of a time re-assembling it. I bought HKS solid spacers, very costly, they are brown and made of phenolic. The have gaskets on both sides and are solid so you don't create further problems with the carb linkage. Having orings in there causes the carb to manifold interface to be not so solid. Like your pics show, you are running the system w/o air cleaners? I had a similar problem as yours at one time because I had installed the ITG filters on incorrectly blocking the floatbowl breather holes. That allowed the car to turn over but not run more than a couple seconds. If you install a electric pump, get a good one. Those cheap things from Kragen burn out every year or so and leave you stranded. I opted for using a old Mazda RX-7 pump, mounted inline near the gas tank. They are low psi and you can get them from the junkyard for $10 a piece. At that price, get two and have spare. A pump like that you can run w/o a regulator as I have done but it is always better to be precise as possible with a regulator.
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Downforce, Traction, and Aerodynamics
Front Airdam from MSA: yes, it works very well. My car used to feel very floaty at 70mph and faster. I installed the fiberglass airdam, and the front end started hugging the road. Yes, a definite performance advantage, not just for looks. Your theory holds true. They have fibreglass and urethane dams. The difference is the fibreglass ones are deeper and would go with that one if you are careful about not hitting parking lot stops. Next best thing are the urethane ones, which are not as deep but will not break. I also have a rear spoiler, but installed that merely for looks, so I wasn't paying attention if any performance was added. One more thing... A Z is very much like a airplane wing very prone to take off. From what I heard from Z racers, no matter what you do to the car.....at 150mph, it is very scary and unstable.
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got pics of my new Z!
Looks like fun! Your first Z? How does it run?
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installing a rear sway bar on a late '73 help
I have a 73 (10/72) which has the hangers built in for the sway bar and it is definitely in front of the diff. It is an HRE sway bar, I know the suspension technique bar mounts totally differently. Which bar to you have?
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switching differentials......
R180 is considerably lighter...25lbs and if you ever wanted to go LSD, you can get a R-180 LSD 3.70 from a junkyard later model Z. To do a LSD in a R-200 you have to buy the LSD unit for $600 +.
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top speed of a 72' 240z
If you plan on pushing your 240 to the limit, plan on suspension and front air dam, otherwise your baby will "fly" in a literal sense!!!
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My car at MSA AutoX School 5/02
MSA AutoX school was a blast!!. See my site for more pics http://www.brandonyu.com/pics/z/motorsport_may2002/index.html
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Rumour about Mike...
How and the heck do you deal with Insurance on all these cars?
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Which Z event to attend?
Sweet, that would be awesome to Z. I wonder if you got me doing the spin-outs...Mpeg is fine and I have a T1 connection. Thanks, Brandon
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500+ more MSA 2002 pix...
Those can be bought through Nissan Motorsports
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Which Z event to attend?
Well I have been the National Conventions and the MSA show. Since the National Convention is during the week and the MSA show is a weekend only event, you might try to squeeze in both. The Motorsport show has been drawing up large numbers of cars of the past couple of years and is steadily about 300 cars. I think you see the most amount of cars there just because there are a large number of Z cars on the west coast and in California alone. Of course there are show cars and also daily drivers. At the big conventions, you see more pure show cars, because they are there to win a show..of course. The MSA event is somewhat limited in scope since it is a weekend event, but you will get to talk to lots of people and see lots of cars. Some Hightlights: Friday night, is opening night, where you can do some indoor kart racing which is pretty fun. Sat, there is autocross driving school and Sunday is car show day, which is an outdoor event, and of course there are dinners you sign up for on Sat/Sun. From what Kmack said, I think the convention is a much more formalized event where you can tell your family that you are all going on a vacation and you won't let them down. Since you are from Oregon, the drive to Southern CA is doable as opposed to getting out to Texas. If you are money conscious, the MSA show is a bunch cheaper and much more accomodating to the pocketbook. If you are in the need for zparts, then another bonus is that MSA has a big sale on everything that day, so if you need to stockup...you can really save a bundle. You may want to call beforehand and ask them what % you will save on show day. If I am not mistaken, I think it is 20%.
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Swapped Ring&Pinion - Speedo needs adjusting
Boy, that sure scares me away from doing it!