BillD

I'm not sure what did it, but the beast lives again. I checked all the ignition wire connections and removed the old condenser to inspect it and then put it back. I removed the fuel inlet fitting from the carb (thinking it might have a filter - it didn't) and sprayed carb cleaner directly into the inlet opening. Finally I adjusted the electric choke to specs. I hit the ignition and it fired up like a new car. I leaned out the idle mixture screws and reset the idle speed and then took it out. After a 20 mile test drive I can honestly say that it has never run better. I previously had a transitional stumble at about 2000RPM and that is gone -- just nice smooth power over the entire range.

Thanks Beandip. I'll probably try them, but I was looking for things other than the carb that might be causing the problem. Sometimes I spend huge amounts of time fixing things that aren't broken because I don't check out other issues. By the way, the previous owner put the system together and I would have preferred the twin SUs, but the 4bbl has been running for four years or so and has given me great service.

My '73 240z has a 2.8L engine, a Clifford intake manifold, and an Eldelbrock 1406 4bbl carb. Up until last weekend, it ran like a dream. Then I had a very rough time getting it started (although it would start and run on ether). By enriching the idle needles, it would start and idle well but it doesn't want to run above about 2,000 RPM. It doesn't much like throttle blipping either. I changed the gas line filter (this had been a problem before) and this changed nothing. I checked the fuel pressure (Eldelbrock electric pump) and I was getting 6psi. Since the car is only run about once a month and its a long time between tankfulls, I'm fearful of bad gas or junk clogging the carb, but thought I'd check in for other ideas before draining the tank and rebuilding the carb. Thanks in advance.

Everything is hooked up and the little red car said "Vroom! Vroom!" I am a happy camper. Thanks, BILL

Thanks. I was almost sure that was the answer, but didn't want to confirm it with a puff of smoke.

Sorry to be an idiot, but I didn't mark the small gauge wires when I removed them from my starter solenoid and now I don't remember where they went. I've included a picture of the mystery wires. I think that I can assume that the blue female spade connector goes to the S terminal, but I'm not sure if the ring connector goes to the B (+) or M terminal. This is a '73 240z with an L28 engine and a 5-speed 280zx transmission. Thanks for any help in this moron rescue.

This is a shot of my pig, Gilbert, in July on his 2nd Birthday. He's now a little over 165# and his razor sharp tusks are about 3 inches long. When he was about a year old and 90#, he attacked two dobermans in a neighbor's yard and lost an ear. He is doing everything in his power to get a rematch. He has free range of the house and yard and is a great (clean, loyal, and amazingly smart) companion animal.

Has any progress been made on testing the fuel resistant status of this "replacement" part? The results could be very useful to a lot of the list members.

I have a 300zx and love it. My 240z is great for short to medium trips, but the 300zx is a much more comfortable choice for grand touring. It has proven to be dependable and moderately easy to work on.

I realize that this is for an emergency/temporary repair, but what are the consequences introducing egg whites or pepper to the inner workings of the cooling system? If those consequences involve water pump distress or clogged cooling passages, wouldn't it be better to wait for a real repair or go for the more external fixes like the bubble gum patch jammed on the outside or the crimping of the leaking tube?

The lift controls are mounted high on a leg (about 5' off the floor). It has a short electrical cord that I disconnect when the hydraulics are not in use. Since it requires power to lift from the floor or to lift prior to unlocking the safety tabs for lowering, it would be difficult to imagine a small child activating the system. Older children would present another problem but I have a hunch the lift would be just another entry on a long list of potential disasters. In passive mode -- up or down -- everything is solidly mechanically connected and unbelievably heavy making it difficult for me to imagine a scenario where the system would become unstable.

Your lock release mechanism appears to be exactly like mine. It appears to be a very simple and reliable design.

Insurance Coverage: In response to an earlier question about insurance coverage should the lift fail, my automobile insurance company (Haggarty) tells me that although the case would have to be assessed at the time of claim, unless there was a specific exclusion under the collision section of my policy (there isn't) they would cover all damages incurred. As noted before, I wouldn't lift my car or park another vehicle under it if I didn't have confidence in the machine, so I'm not anticipating this as a likely outcome but it is still good to know that it is covered. Warning: I've never had any major bad experiences with the lift, but I would like to underscore Carl's warning to pay attention to what you are doing. The mechanism is lifted by one hydraulic ram that pulls four aircraft cables running within the legs. These cables are easily adjusted so that everything is made exactly level. If they are allowed to go out of adjustment, when the lift is raised to release the mechanical locks it is possible to release three locks and keep one of the locks activated. This will result in out of kilter lowering that could be catastrophic. It happened to me once but was very apparant before anything close to Carl's experience. I saw what was happening within inches and simply raised the lift a little higher, released all of the locks, and then lowered it down without incidence. I then readjusted the cables and everything is cool. Since you hear the locks click as the lift is raised, it is easy to monitor by readjusting when the clicks are no longer simultaneous. (I've never had to readjust after this event.) Bottom line - Keep all of your tools (especially the ones that can cause your car to fall on you) well maintained and pay attention to what you are doing when you are using them.

rdefabri: Fitting the lift between the door rails was no problem in my garage. The garage door rails are a little more than 10' from each other on the inside and the outside width of the lift posts is a little more than 8'. BillD

Sorry for the poor quality photography, but it was quick and dirty. The silver thing next to my hand is what I am calling a flange. It rests on the supports on the insides of the legs. The lift is completely off the hydraulics and supported mechanically by the four flanges (or whatever these things are called) when at rest. The flanges and their supports on the insides the legs are made out of 3/4" steel that is about 2 1/2" high. They are spring loaded and click into place as the lift goes up. To get the lift to lower, you have to raise it about two inches to allow them to rotate down and then keep the flanges retracted as as the lift comes down. Believe me, it is a very confidence inspiring design and pretty idiot proof (as long as you don't ask my box fan's opinion). BillD