BillD

I'm not sure what did it, but the beast lives again. I checked all the ignition wire connections and removed the old condenser to inspect it and then put it back. I removed the fuel inlet fitting from the carb (thinking it might have a filter - it didn't) and sprayed carb cleaner directly into the inlet opening. Finally I adjusted the electric choke to specs. I hit the ignition and it fired up like a new car. I leaned out the idle mixture screws and reset the idle speed and then took it out. After a 20 mile test drive I can honestly say that it has never run better. I previously had a transitional stumble at about 2000RPM and that is gone -- just nice smooth power over the entire range.

Thanks Beandip. I'll probably try them, but I was looking for things other than the carb that might be causing the problem. Sometimes I spend huge amounts of time fixing things that aren't broken because I don't check out other issues. By the way, the previous owner put the system together and I would have preferred the twin SUs, but the 4bbl has been running for four years or so and has given me great service.

My '73 240z has a 2.8L engine, a Clifford intake manifold, and an Eldelbrock 1406 4bbl carb. Up until last weekend, it ran like a dream. Then I had a very rough time getting it started (although it would start and run on ether). By enriching the idle needles, it would start and idle well but it doesn't want to run above about 2,000 RPM. It doesn't much like throttle blipping either. I changed the gas line filter (this had been a problem before) and this changed nothing. I checked the fuel pressure (Eldelbrock electric pump) and I was getting 6psi. Since the car is only run about once a month and its a long time between tankfulls, I'm fearful of bad gas or junk clogging the carb, but thought I'd check in for other ideas before draining the tank and rebuilding the carb. Thanks in advance.

Everything is hooked up and the little red car said "Vroom! Vroom!" I am a happy camper. Thanks, BILL

Thanks. I was almost sure that was the answer, but didn't want to confirm it with a puff of smoke.

Sorry to be an idiot, but I didn't mark the small gauge wires when I removed them from my starter solenoid and now I don't remember where they went. I've included a picture of the mystery wires. I think that I can assume that the blue female spade connector goes to the S terminal, but I'm not sure if the ring connector goes to the B (+) or M terminal. This is a '73 240z with an L28 engine and a 5-speed 280zx transmission. Thanks for any help in this moron rescue.

This is a shot of my pig, Gilbert, in July on his 2nd Birthday. He's now a little over 165# and his razor sharp tusks are about 3 inches long. When he was about a year old and 90#, he attacked two dobermans in a neighbor's yard and lost an ear. He is doing everything in his power to get a rematch. He has free range of the house and yard and is a great (clean, loyal, and amazingly smart) companion animal.

Has any progress been made on testing the fuel resistant status of this "replacement" part? The results could be very useful to a lot of the list members.

I have a 300zx and love it. My 240z is great for short to medium trips, but the 300zx is a much more comfortable choice for grand touring. It has proven to be dependable and moderately easy to work on.

I realize that this is for an emergency/temporary repair, but what are the consequences introducing egg whites or pepper to the inner workings of the cooling system? If those consequences involve water pump distress or clogged cooling passages, wouldn't it be better to wait for a real repair or go for the more external fixes like the bubble gum patch jammed on the outside or the crimping of the leaking tube?

The lift controls are mounted high on a leg (about 5' off the floor). It has a short electrical cord that I disconnect when the hydraulics are not in use. Since it requires power to lift from the floor or to lift prior to unlocking the safety tabs for lowering, it would be difficult to imagine a small child activating the system. Older children would present another problem but I have a hunch the lift would be just another entry on a long list of potential disasters. In passive mode -- up or down -- everything is solidly mechanically connected and unbelievably heavy making it difficult for me to imagine a scenario where the system would become unstable.

Your lock release mechanism appears to be exactly like mine. It appears to be a very simple and reliable design.

Insurance Coverage: In response to an earlier question about insurance coverage should the lift fail, my automobile insurance company (Haggarty) tells me that although the case would have to be assessed at the time of claim, unless there was a specific exclusion under the collision section of my policy (there isn't) they would cover all damages incurred. As noted before, I wouldn't lift my car or park another vehicle under it if I didn't have confidence in the machine, so I'm not anticipating this as a likely outcome but it is still good to know that it is covered. Warning: I've never had any major bad experiences with the lift, but I would like to underscore Carl's warning to pay attention to what you are doing. The mechanism is lifted by one hydraulic ram that pulls four aircraft cables running within the legs. These cables are easily adjusted so that everything is made exactly level. If they are allowed to go out of adjustment, when the lift is raised to release the mechanical locks it is possible to release three locks and keep one of the locks activated. This will result in out of kilter lowering that could be catastrophic. It happened to me once but was very apparant before anything close to Carl's experience. I saw what was happening within inches and simply raised the lift a little higher, released all of the locks, and then lowered it down without incidence. I then readjusted the cables and everything is cool. Since you hear the locks click as the lift is raised, it is easy to monitor by readjusting when the clicks are no longer simultaneous. (I've never had to readjust after this event.) Bottom line - Keep all of your tools (especially the ones that can cause your car to fall on you) well maintained and pay attention to what you are doing when you are using them.

rdefabri: Fitting the lift between the door rails was no problem in my garage. The garage door rails are a little more than 10' from each other on the inside and the outside width of the lift posts is a little more than 8'. BillD

Sorry for the poor quality photography, but it was quick and dirty. The silver thing next to my hand is what I am calling a flange. It rests on the supports on the insides of the legs. The lift is completely off the hydraulics and supported mechanically by the four flanges (or whatever these things are called) when at rest. The flanges and their supports on the insides the legs are made out of 3/4" steel that is about 2 1/2" high. They are spring loaded and click into place as the lift goes up. To get the lift to lower, you have to raise it about two inches to allow them to rotate down and then keep the flanges retracted as as the lift comes down. Believe me, it is a very confidence inspiring design and pretty idiot proof (as long as you don't ask my box fan's opinion). BillD

Gary: You can always bolt it down, but you won't believe how solid these things feel. I eventually put mine on four pieces of carpet so it doesn't scratch the floor. The wheels are removable so they don't get in the way and they are a really great design. They sure came in handy when I had to change the lift's position because of the garage door problem. Rich: I scoped out a lot of possibilities and decided on Metro because of price and convenience. I'm in Georgia and the shipping point was in Alabama so the reduced shipping costs really tipped the scales in their favor. Also, the technical support was from their engineering staff was really good. It has been trouble free except for the sound my box fan made when I forgot it (running) under a rail while lowering the lift. <I was able to fix the fan, although it does look a little "used".>

The design is very solid with guides inside of the posts that prevent racking. It comes with floor bolts and I was initially tempted, but it is solid as a rock. Ceiling height is a problem. My garage cieling is 10' 2" and I can only lift my 240z's wheels 5'7" off the floor. It would be very limited with an 8' ceiling. The lift has mechanical locking tabs on the legs forcing you to lift beyond your resting point and then lower down on the tabs making the 8' ceiling even more problematic. I have caution and stop points marked in day glow on the post adjacent to the hydraulic controls, so it is pretty easy and quick for me to get it into position. The garage door height is more of a problem. If you look at the picture, you'll see that the door rails are about hood level when the car is raised. In order to lift the door high enough to bring a car in the lower slot, the top car has to be moved all the way away from the door (and the lift was also moved in that direction). This is annoying and has caused banging of the top car with the door more than once -- I now have a removable stop on the door rail to prevent me from forgetting this limitation of two objects occupying the same space simultaneously. I have really large carport on the side of the garage that has much higher ceilings (15'-16') and my next project is to enclose it, install a much taller door, and move my lift to its new home where I don't have to worry about these things. Of course, Carl's correct observation about the current door height and the additional height when the lift is raised on its wheels will require partial disassembly of this incredibly heavy piece of equipment (original assembly of the main rails took four very burly men), but it will be worth the effort for my peace of mind. I've wanted the convenience of a lift for most of my life and kept postponing because of the expense and concerns about use. I should have gotten one a long time ago. I use it for everything - you haven't lived until you have detailed your wheels with your car at exactly the correct height. This is a truly great tool/toy!:laugh: :laugh:

I debated the two styles and finally chose the four post version because it made me feel more secure about vehicles parked in the bottom slot and I didn't need to anchor it in the floor. In fact, my lift has removable (enormous) wheels that allow me to move it around -- even outside. I was also attracted to the ease of getting cars on and off on the ramps. On the other hand, it is very hard to use with jack stands so work on the wheels is usually done the old fashioned way on the floor. For everything else, including lifting other stuff like lawn tractors to a convenient working height, it has been as functional as I had hoped. Bottom Line: The style is a compromise, but it works for more things that I need to do.

I got a metro lift 7000 series last year and have really enjoyed it. Just about everything I do on the car is much easier and more pleasant. It feels very secure and I have no qualms about parking another vehicle under it. http://www.metro-lifts.com/four-post-garage-lift.html

Were you using a boom pole on a 3-point hitch?

Although I'm pretty sure that the sender is at fault, I had a similar problem where the sender wasn't the problem. It responded well to the replacement of the regular oil pump with an oil pump from a later model, turbo z.

If you post an article and pictures, I may finally be able to make a legal right turn! Please do.

If you read the seller's 100% feedback, the comments indicated that the buyers are ecstatic about the quality of the reproduction boxes he's selling. I love it when someone else makes my hobbies feel less obsessive.

All of the problems I've encountered have been pretty straightforward and have provided me with a self study course in the black arts of restoration/repair. There are two nagging problems that have persisted through my relationship with this wonderful little car. The first is the combination switch. My right signals sometimes work and sometimes don't. I'm pretty sure that I could fix the problem by just getting a new switch, but at this point I can't let go of the two year battle with the original switch and associated wiring. The second is a quarter sized area on the right front fender that refuses to allow paint to adhere. I've stripped, prepped, and painted the fender twice and this little bubble pops in three months or so. I'd think about changing the fender, but I'd be afraid that this miniature Bermuda Triangle of space-time would continue on the fresh metal. All in all, its been nothing but fun.

Thanks. Sorry for such an off topic question, but the pressure washer is used on my 240z's chassis so it is tenuously related. I was hoping for a flash of insight from the list so I wouldn't have to admit defeat by this seemingly simple device. The exploded diagram you attached is the same as the one in the device manual. Everything makes sense to me in terms of function except the "A" assembly, labeled as the "unloader". It appears to be adjustable and controls pressure by diverting the flow when the trigger is not activated. I am suspicious that it (and its adjustment) is the key to my problems with the pump, but my grasp of the big picture is very limited. The Sears help line has been anything but. I've gone through the trouble shooting check list in the manual and have cleaned and/or replaced all of the components mentioned. I've also searched through net resources for clues and I've read a number of web pages that mention the importance of unloader adjustment, but say nothing about how its done. I'll probably break down and take the thing in for repair, but was hoping for one last shot at a DIY fix. Thanks again.