ScoHo

Thank you, that was the response I was looking for. These wonderful, beautiful, tenacious, forgiving bitches get in your blood. I will always own one.

New car, stereo not installed. Everything works fine. Hey, I will plug the stereo back in! Plugged in: Stereo acts funky; Dome, fuel, and tach start to oscillate. All go out, including turn signals. I pull stereo, replace turn signal fuse with a 10 (wants a 20, I only had a ten), all systems back up. I take the stereo (and the car) to a decent audio shop and explain the situation. They bench test the stereo, say its bad (which I believe), so we put in a new deck. Couple miles down the road, all the same systems go down. I put in a 20A thinking that is the difference (I had a 10A) but it blows just the same. Obviously, stereo is interfering with the dash (aftermarket gauges, by the way), but I am no where near a wiring guy, so I any advice is appreciated.

I automatically paid more attention, and gave more respect, to posts when I saw Fly's avatar. Cool, no nonsense guy... sorry for your (and our) loss.

I guess its worth what I'm willing to pay...

Haven't seen this car being discussed. Is everyone laying low? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=2474492047&rd=1 I am interested in this car. How do you deal with a zero feedback seller? Not sure what a reasonable price would be (other than: What are you willing to pay and how bad do you want it?).

That is an outstanding deal... Just the parts in your picture would cover your investment several times over. Great that its a runner for such a small price. I would have purchased it even with no means to store it. Well done!

Uhh... He ran out of money downgrading his motor! I have a bit of an issue with V8 upgrades in Zs but I understand the move (HP vs factory stability, blah, blah [or $]). Go ahead and rape me when you get it out of debt, MFer.

I have one of those corners I have driven hundreds of times: tight 'S' curve, right then left, steep uphill... You probably have one. Not sure why I'm posting it other than to say that that section really (REALLY) makes me appreciate these sweet, forgiving cars. I absolutely hammered through those turns last night, engine screaming, waking locals (hopefully), probably doing 40 around 15 posted (or is it 10? Slow anyways). After exiting to the flat on the top, I am going, "Wow, you shouldn't do that!". But second I am thinking, "What does it take to break this car loose?". I could probably take it a LITTLE faster but there is not much left, she's pulling like a mother. I may be caught in the moment but I fall in love again with this 30 year old horse that won't quit. Could a 30k Honda or 60k Porsche hit that stretch faster? Probably... Certainly. But, damn, this ancient car would be right behind. For those in the Vancouver, Washington area, I am talking about the uphill S off Evergreen highway onto Andresen, the one that overlooks SR14 and the Columbia River. PS I take the downhill ride like its ice... My brakes aren't exactly, ummm, current. If you got this far, thanks for reading!

I was testing warm and with WOT, valves are due for adjustment, though. Still, quite a bit different results between the two tests. Sticking valve?

I'm hoping we're talking about the same port. It's about 2 inches from the left hand 'corner' of the front carburetor on the flange just past the spacer. I also plugged the extra vacuum leak, reinstalled NGKs (What was I thinking!?!?), and rebalanced carbs. Today and tomorrow are going to be rare dry days here, so I get to take it out at least a couple more times. Thanks for the help guys, it really makes a difference.

I have holes in the top of the flanges of my N33 manifolds right before the carburetors. 4 on the flange near the front of the motor and 2 on the rear. The front 4 are all sealed with bolts; only one of the rear 2 is sealed, the other is sucking air. I don't know a whole lot about vacuum but this doesn't seem right. Also, I'm assuming the flying saucer thing on my distributor is vaccuum advance (?) which is also sealed. What should really be happening with all these sealed holes?

Several weeks ago I decided to put new plugs in my 79 motor and at the same time do my first compression test. It tested between 140 and 150 on all but number 4 which read in successive tests: 130, 140, 128, and 115. I went ahead and installed some platinum Bosch (at .034, seemed to run rougher than the old plugs, hmm.). Finding out that I could put some oil in the cylinder to try to isolate where the compression loss is coming from, I decided to retest number 4 tonight. Well, It tested 145 then 145 then 145 and again. I decided to test all the rest of the cylinders in case my inexperience could have caused issues with either testing sessions but got readings between 140 and 150 on the others. I set the compression hose more than once on the number 4 in both sessions. Both the old and new plugs in number 4 were oilier than the other cylinders. Any insight?

I think you're talking about Matt Anderson, Beandip? I have used about 4 different Datsun/Nissan 'specialists' in the Portland/Vancouver area and have frankly been disappointed with all but Matt. I don't have his number at the moment but his shop is on the north side of 99th Street about 5 blocks east of Hwy99. Not too far from 164th Ave.

4 speed or 5 speed?