Walkingpig

Gold coast hey, Would love to meet up with you sometime, i'm bayside in the east of brisbane, definately want to cruch $ figures with you over the costs of your setup and also the end ride height:)

Hey dude, I also need to join the Z club, but the first thing you need to do is email me on scheuber @ tpg.com.au and come check my car out, i'll take you for a spin, and show you what you get, and the receipts that show you what it cost me:) You are where i was when i was 18, and i'm now 21, and wish i'd listened to the me that is where i am now if you follow. So anyway, email me and sort out a time to drop in and chat about Z's, i'm out east brisbane in the bayside. Charles

i'll shoot off some simple causes, the guru's can rip through you for more details later:) It can often be caused by just a worn diff mount or strap, allowing the diff to move a little, as obviously it it will as the amount of force applied on it varies..... Or you may have my problem where the exhaust is resting next to the diff, and when you launch hard they bend apart before clanging together:) but i doubt you have a 3 inch exaust, and this only happened after putting the r200 in. but none of this helps you! Personally, i'd say its just sitting a little loose, i when wepulled my r180 diff out, there were teeth lying at the bottom off the diff that had snapped off, and it still wasn't making any sounds! (just glad we got it off when we did) Charles

i believe there was an r200 lsd in some of the 280zx turbos and r31 skylines? but thats what i've heard around australia. Basically you just need to go ask for a Longnose R200 LSD at the wreckers:) there are just the 2 types, long and short.. there are plenty of short ones around as they came in the majority of early 90's nissan imports.

having just finished a half day marathon change of steering column -i also vote steering coupler bolts... although, for those of you attempting it, i had someone of adequate strength help (as my socket wrench could only get one click in, so that equated to about 1/12th of a turn each .. go. so i got it on and held it tight - and got someone to turn the steering wheel back and forth (get the front end off the ground). This made life a little easier. but after that, anything under the infernal dash!

Selling my Long R200 diff, its open and 3.7:1, originated from a 280zx Its in top condition and includes the halfshafts. All offers welcome, some politely refused:) walkingpig@hotmail.com 0419993515 I'm in Toowoomba Australia - can organise freight to anywhere in australia.

nice work man:) my girlfriend is demanding i get a screen installed so she can play the playstation while i'm out talking at the car meets each weekend:) i never thought of putting the screen in the glovebox, the ps2 was giong to go there, good stuff:)

Firstly it may help to point out that i am from Australia. The RB shipped in Nissan skylines from 1989 onwards, the R32, not counting the older SOCH RB30ET The RB20DET is an RB 2000cc DOHC Efi Turbo (correct me others if that is wrong) Over here the 280ZX wwas never releases as a turbo. it is quite expensive to build one. For the RB20, the modifications are quite minimal. and for example, i have only the basics(an intercooler,3inch exhaust, pod filter, and a small upgrade from stock T2 turbo to T3 from a VG30 engine) It is expected to make at least 240rwhp at 13psi. while the RB20 is the baby of the RB series, it is capable of making some serious power also. And at less cost than an L28 i would imagine (especially in australia) Anyway, my point is i looked into both - and the RB is in my opinion a much better choice. but there are many many resons behind that decision

The mounts did line up correctly:) Unfortunately my L Crossmember was stolen by the man i sold my engine too - do not deal with him, i was conned and stolen from. So we just made a custom one, it does run on an angle however (yes i'm using the rb gearbox) Pics are on the way, camera is with my mother at the moment:) she needed it for a wedding

Thanks, I hope it will. I might need to get some tires on there, my mild l24 could make enough smoke.. that was only half the power this has The point of the post was, that i know how hard it is to get some genuine info on the swap, so there is some and i'm here to talk to anyone that needs to know something - if ican help walkingpig@hotmail.com - i live on msn:)

Hey All, I never got much of a response from Hybrids, so this stays here where i feel happier:) Please note, in the near future i'll add this info to my website with pictures included. The Scenario *********** The warm L24 sounded great, but just didn't have to go when push came to shove. I'd always dreamed of the mighty Rb26 but it was far out of my price range. So i was off tuning my SU's one day and took the car for a sprint down an industrial street - to the amusement of a Police cameravan, i prefer to consider myself lucky i was only caught at 104 in a 60, not the 140 icould have been. So i lost my license, and though PERFECT. Since then every dollar has gone into my Z I went out and purchased a halfcut for my Blue 2 seater 260z in the form of an Rb20DET. ********************* WORK BEGINS I am by no means a mechanic, so between friends and a very good local performance mechanic - the car was set to work apon. Out came the old engine and gearbox, and preparations began to slot the new gear in. I imagine this bit will be of the most interest to you. We found that the Mounts were all a perfect lineup, the engine mounts sat square, and the gearboxmounts lined up with the tailshaft slotting in perfectly and the selector coming up nicely through the floor, if a little forward. However there was a problem, the rb mounts pushed it about 2 cms outside the constrains of the bonnet. So, with all my friends driving damn Mini's, i had to call a towing company to charge $25 to go 400 meters down the road to my mechanic. They made my custom sump for me, and also chopped a little off the right mound, and remade the left mount to suit, as the engine sat on a slight angle. Having these things fixed, the engine now sits perfectly, and the bonnet clearance is a few cms or more! For the sump they chopped the bowl out and made a new bottom with the bowl more towards the middle(to allow the engine to gearbox mounting bracket to go on. This is where we are up to, (i decided to post now as most people are interested in getting the car in - not buying exhausts and coolers) but needless , i'll fill in the 'to come' bits below ************ ON THE WAY Next stop is the last of the difficult things, the wiring. The engine bay side is easy and normal, however interfacing with the old guages is the unsurity, It is planned and recommended that we just splice and join the new loom into the old loom where needed, given on the RB20 the speedo cable is still mechanical, and the Tacho can be connected to the coil still. its only a few other guages (we all know) that need connecting.. And the ignition. Hopefully this will be conquered by me and a friend, but if not the mechanics will take care of it.. for a hefty sum:) Following that, i am replacing the stuffed turbo with a small upgrade to the VG30 T3 model. I'm also going all out on the exhaust, including a $550 custom dump with separate pipes for main and wastegate, an item proven to bring the RB20 onboost 800rpm earlier... connecting to this will be the 3inch mandrel bent exhaust all the way to the back(with CAT and Muffler in there) The intercooler is a 600x300x76 HYBRID rated to a pressure drop of 1.5psi at 600hp. It will also be connected with mandrel bent stainless steel. once this is all done and the mod plate passed, i will finish the custom stero that is midway to completion (but no one here seems interested in them), and add things like a surge tank for when i am forced to corner hard with no fuel:) If anyone is interested - I am also midway through a central lockig, and power windows expedition - it is working very successfully. Will post pictures and info on my website. ************* Summary So.. if you hadn't noticed, i'm after the beautiful Z car looks, with some real useful power, and a more modern feel to it. Most of you will probably stomp up and down yelling about this:) Judging by another RB20 my mechanic just worked on with the same turbo and exhaust/cooler as me, it should come in at about 240RWHP at 13psi. Something that should keep me happy for a while, and then a little bit longer when i get my license back:) As i said, A full pictured explanation of the entire project will be available on my website when i get a littlemore time (assignment) ************** The Goal of this was to help those who are contemplating the RB swap find a little more out about how it actually works when push comes to shove... Keep in mind that that while the RB series is almost physically identical - the R25, R26, R30 all have a Higher engined by varied amounts - so be prepared for a bit more work getting it to fit under the bonnet. I hope i have helped!

hey all, As very few of you will know, i'm currently doing the rb20det swap. and am at the modify the sump point, contrary to popular rumor, you can't just take it off spin it 180 deg and put it back on, the ends are a slightly different shape with different screw holes, and rather than just welding it on, i'd like to do this the right way. So i went and was quoted $400 by places to cut top inch or two off the sump (screwwhole layer etc) and swing THAT around and weld it back on... thus being able to bolt it on again. $400 is pretty ridiculous so Can anyone here point me to someone in South East Queensland that can do this cheaper? Or anyone on these forums with a TIG or something, and capable of doing the cut and weld - i will pay you Please help asap!, Charles you can contact me here, on walkingpig@hotmail.com. and 0419993515 -------------------- off topic - mods - is there a blacklist of people you've dealt with regarding Zcars? i have someone to add that has conned, and stolen from me that i dont want other people to have to find out the hard way over.....

i would like to finish my rb20 swap:) it wont be a rb26 monster, but still faster than the average zear

thanks man! for a computer nerd - i'm hopeless at forums:$

Hello all, I searched here and Hybrids, couldn't find what i was after, i'm wondering what the simplest rear disc upgrade is on a Z, is there such a thing as a bolt-on swap for something like a skyline or 280zx? . alternatively, what shoudl i be chasing down for the easiest swap, and what is involved in getting them on and working (including hand-brake) THanks in advance! Charles

Hey all (dont run screaming scared of another million words of rubbish) I like that install in the 280zx:) nice and neat.... I thought i'd update what i'm up to anyway(now you can run!) I am having custom fibreglass doors made up as i type, they are being built to house a 6.5 inch, a 4.5 inch and a 2 inch tweeter, these fit comfortably with the correct staging... (this is actually a set of splits + a 4.5inch 2-way speaker) but will accomodate for some of the uppermarket companies that make a 3-way split (6.5, 4,2) speaker system. Unfortunately my experiment with 280zx power window motors failed so i can't fit the 6.5inch 2 ways in to help reinforce midbass.(has anyone successfully converted to power windows, i understand there is a type of motor that will fit into basically any door, but have no idea which cars to pillage at the junkyard!) ------ For anyone that has investigated fibreglass work for car stero's, you will know it is NOT cheap. Just incase any of you are interested i can have these door cards replicated for you, price would start at $550 for the pair+ shipping, covered in your choice of material for aruond $600 for the pair i would take a guess and say there aren't many people THAT obsessed with their stero like me! but if anyone is interested, i'll have pictures in a week(when they are finished) so let me know if you want some posted)! the 6.5 and the 4.5 inch are both being sealed at the back to prevent any phasing issues, and of course i'm using Fusion speakers. for under 900-1000 +p&s) you can have them speakers included.(around the cost you are likely to spend having door cards made up on their own at most places) I dont suppose anyone is interested, but if you are... 0419993515, walkingpig@hotmail.com

yes its a red top:) thats all i know my plans were to use its sump and mounts... allowing me to mount the more modern variety into my car. but the mounts are a joke to find as the 200zr's barely exist in australia so i give up:) but as far as i know, the rb's are similar to the L6's in that they ahve the same dimensions .. before you add the various turbo's etc shrug find me some 200zr mounts and sump and i'll marry you:) ok maybe not but .. hi!

I just read the entire topic, and i didn't notice (apologies for blindness) a issue that i see as a having a huge effect on what 'speeding' should be. The Car!? Take my situation.. 1985 ford laser stock as they come, 1974 260z with nice suspension and a warm motor both are very different cars. the Z is a pleasure to drive, i love to go into the corners at 60, and hit the pedal midway and (as you all know) she just does as she's told..., now take me switching to the laser for a cheaper drive across town, i have in the past forgotten a small fact, its the LASER not the ZED! it slides going through a corner at 60 (fortunately didn't roll) and as someone made a point - i was checking my speedo coming up to a common police area rather than concentrating on my car, its limits, my limits, and the roads limits. also the lasers brakes are terrible in comparison, the wheels are closing in on half the width... they lock easier, and dont slow me up any where near as quick as the Z. however, given all this praise of the Z. All the same, in the rain, if i breathe on my accelerator i go sliding:( whereas in the laser, you can put the pedal on the floor and there isn't the power to start a spin(almost) The point is.. Driving a Lada Diva, and driving a porsche 911 are extremely different things - and i dont need to expand that.... the porsche could probably pull up from 3x the speed in the same distance. Understandably you need to add human response times. But in my mind this is a serious point.... --------------------------------------------------------------------- You can stop here.... i felt like waffling for longer but unless you're a cat, you've probably better things to do All i want to say is, the type of car has a HUGE part to play in the safety and the avoidability of any situation. Feel free to flame me and disagree:) --------------------------------------------------------------------- Some of us drive some seriously performance oriented cars, and that means we have cars that handle like a slot car, go like the wind and have huge stoppers poking out from behind each corner. So why are we penalised for not abiding by laws that were designed and structured (assumedly) on statistics from ours and other countries around the world that represent the mass population, of which high performance cars make very little to no impact due to the sheer size of the SUV and Family car markets... blah blah But of course they can't have one rule for the commodore, one rule for the falcon, and one for the barina (sorry americans) what if one commodore has new sports tyres, shouldn't he be allowed to go faster because he can pull up and corner slightly better? etc etc blah blah.. it is impossible to enforce a grey area, so we are stuck abiding to a very black and white rulebook. After all, logic says it has to be this way What gets me, is the way the rules are enforced, i've heard and shared many cop stories, and without bias (i am unusually calm writing this!) there are so many more reflecting a bad attitude towards owners of flashy cars! i've be stalked the width of the town for an "rbt" and known people that were let go at a displayed 38 over the limit (and he knows he was)! But its not only police, i've been sworn at and had rude signals shown to me by people in other cars countless times (and never once from a nice new car) always old beaten cars with dinged panels etc. Do the police have an inferiority complex and grudge just like them? why come down harder on someone that is less endangering to the safety of a given situation i'm going to shutup now and sleep i'll waffle another day *dodges rotten tomatoes* speaking of which, haven't tomatoes been poor quality lately... good time to plant a tomato seed! i am scared of food poisoning everytime i eat one!

I have recently done the same thing i purchased some 6.5 inch splits, 12 inch sub with ported box, and 2 amps (all fusion equipment of course - starts brand wars) and i first started with a wonderful cardboard template for actually bolting the 6.5 inches onto the rear struts. but this is hard and very bad since the bolts are also holding your suspension in:) so in the end i modified the project to have a flat bottom(not sloped around the shape of the strut towers and simply mounted them on strong brackets coming off the sub box which is facing backwards shooting up into the rear glass. I do like my SQ so i want stero separation and that meant lifiting the midrange 6.5's up high enough to get over the seats, and 6x9's on the floor(setup in car when i bought it) do not cut it, and it doesn't help that they aren't the best at SQ anyway the problem is that having them up near the seats, the difference in distance between the speaker behind your head and the one behind the passenger is huge like 2-3x the distance, as opposed to a normal car where they are out on the parcel shelf and a few triangles would hlep you see what i mean if you dont already:> (note my speaker boxes also point the speakers towards the center of the car slightly, not just dead ahead. All in all it does sound quite nice but nowhere near nice enough ::PROBLEMS:: - my sub blows the speakers apart (could just turn it down)- so i am moving the splits to the doors - and putting some 6.5 inch 2 ways in the boxes behind, this will give me more noise outside sub range. Also moving the little splits(currently mounted at the top front corner of the windscreen(way to loud there even on half volume) down to normal position in the corners of the dash(some people make custom plates and put them in the left and right air con vents)) - as previously menitioned - alternator, my alternator was not healthy to start with, so after not being quite sure why my stero was distorting badly and was NOT loud at all, i decided it was electrical problem, especially when my dash stgarted going completely blank, it turned out that the alternator positive peg looked like an oxy torch was shooting out of it, the bolt/stud was completely charcoaled.... I now have a 60amp alternator, and to be honest, if i was to run another sub i would either need bigger, or a decent size capacitor to take the big hits. as at half volume i'm still losing power at idle.. good as long as i dont idle too long:) - Z cars do NOT, repeat do NOT rattle like some cars do with big stero's, they shake to the point you wonder they haven't fallen apart! my very next step is sound deadening ANYWHERE I CAN GET IT the rear badges are going to fly off soon i think:) all the metal panels vibrate.. i can't get my gear over half volume on the head unit without this unwanted problem:) so anyway, thats about it for the trials and tribulations of my sound setup:| Sorry if that was long winded, but i hope it helps direct you as to what to do and what not to even bother trying:) in summary - i am pleased with my boxes, and sub and the mounting, they barely even touch your rear veiw. and proxamalus i just have one question? why did you set your subs forward not backwards? i'm curious:) ---------------------------- if anyone is interested my next steps will be to remout the boxes i made in the same position they are currently in. but allowing me to remove the sub box, as i will have a custom fibreglass box made up (lots of money) that curves.. use imagination here.... around behind the strut towers T1_______T2 | / \ | Imagine T1T2 strut towers, S - 12 inch sub | / S S \ |but it will curve rather than be straight like that:) |/ \ | | | | | if i got so carried away. the third and final step would be another custom box mounting a 15inch in the tire well. but we all have other things to do with our money:) I am sorry if i droned on too long! which i definately did, and i should move this disclaimer to the top of the page or nobody will see it since you stopped reading on line 6:) ---------------------------------------------- final note - if you want SQ - you have to sacrifice your beautiful L2x engine/exhaust growl, it really interferes with what you hear:)

thankyou for the reply lance she is all up and running i did have the wires right as yo usaid! it was a bloody fusible link, it was blown to buggery!

Hey all I just swapped my l26 out for a warm l24, yesterday actually, and after taking detailed photos of the starter and alternator nothing bloody well works! i believe i have it all wired the right way i can't even get my stero to be 'off' (ie power by remote wire to keep and show time) lights dont work, indicators... Let alone the bloody starter! could someone please tell me lots of good stuff! [starter] [solenoid I have the positive lead from the battery on the outer terminal, on the inner all i have is the lead coming direct from the starter to the solenoid. and a little black wire from who knows where.. that i'm positive (no pun intended) came off the inner terminal i have the only wire possible connected to the spade terminal in the middle also on the outer terminal i have a white cable, i have a very thin red one, and a greenygreyie(i'm colorblindish) cable I have the Earth wire on the top bolt that holds hte starter to the bellhousing(earth that comes out of the battery) [alternator] i have hte plasic clip in its spot on hte outer terminal i have the white with red stripe wire on the inner terminal i think its a black one. there is also a little cylinder thing sitting there coming off a white wire, not sure which side it should beon ok thast about all... the battery is NOT flat the fundamentals.. i am getting zero power anywhere, turning the key to on doesn't give lights, doesn't give cranking, doesn'te ven make the solenoid click!, doesn't make stero, gauges, or indicators come alive i will get a hold of a multimeter tomorrow. are there anythings anyone can tell me to do before i pay through the roof for an auto electrician to come and rewire it all! thankyou, Charles

Thats a nice and talked about idea. and something i wouldn't mind doing at some point! BUT, my question was in regard to mounting, and i have since had confirmed that the 200zr engine mounts will mount an RB series engine perfectly.(thankyou stony's website:)) Thanks for your time!

Hello i've been considering the RB swap for sometime... i was told by a decently reliable source that the 200zr (z31 300zx) rb20det actually bolts straight onto the 260z.... as opposed to the R32 skyline models which need modified mounts can someone confirm or othewise this!? as i have the oportunity to buy one in hte next few days! Thanks, Charles

Hello i've been considering the RB swap for sometime... i was told by a decently reliable source that the 200zr (z31 300zx) rb20det actually bolts straight onto the 260z.... as opposed to the R32 skyline models which need modified mounts can someone confirm or othewise this!? as i have the oportunity to buy one in hte next few days! Thanks, Charles (and i'm asking on hybridz too!)