Walkingpig

Gold coast hey, Would love to meet up with you sometime, i'm bayside in the east of brisbane, definately want to cruch $ figures with you over the costs of your setup and also the end ride height:)

Hey dude, I also need to join the Z club, but the first thing you need to do is email me on scheuber @ tpg.com.au and come check my car out, i'll take you for a spin, and show you what you get, and the receipts that show you what it cost me:) You are where i was when i was 18, and i'm now 21, and wish i'd listened to the me that is where i am now if you follow. So anyway, email me and sort out a time to drop in and chat about Z's, i'm out east brisbane in the bayside. Charles

i'll shoot off some simple causes, the guru's can rip through you for more details later:) It can often be caused by just a worn diff mount or strap, allowing the diff to move a little, as obviously it it will as the amount of force applied on it varies..... Or you may have my problem where the exhaust is resting next to the diff, and when you launch hard they bend apart before clanging together:) but i doubt you have a 3 inch exaust, and this only happened after putting the r200 in. but none of this helps you! Personally, i'd say its just sitting a little loose, i when wepulled my r180 diff out, there were teeth lying at the bottom off the diff that had snapped off, and it still wasn't making any sounds! (just glad we got it off when we did) Charles

i believe there was an r200 lsd in some of the 280zx turbos and r31 skylines? but thats what i've heard around australia. Basically you just need to go ask for a Longnose R200 LSD at the wreckers:) there are just the 2 types, long and short.. there are plenty of short ones around as they came in the majority of early 90's nissan imports.

having just finished a half day marathon change of steering column -i also vote steering coupler bolts... although, for those of you attempting it, i had someone of adequate strength help (as my socket wrench could only get one click in, so that equated to about 1/12th of a turn each .. go. so i got it on and held it tight - and got someone to turn the steering wheel back and forth (get the front end off the ground). This made life a little easier. but after that, anything under the infernal dash!

Hey all, about to commence the 'looks' side of my project, i'm after either the full deal flares for the wheel arches, or even just boltons. Also looking for a subtle front spoiler/air dam. Also looking for hilux brake calipers for front upgrade. Also looking for a set of decent but cheap rims, as mine are buckled (and also jellybeans - not sure which is worse). I live in australia, and if yo have anything i need, feel free to contact me on scheuber@tpg.com.au Thanks, Charles

Hey all, hit a curb - car is bad, looks like tie rod end has broken - if anyone has them or knows where to get one, let me know I'm willing to buy a whole steering rack if necessary. contact me asap on 0419993515 or walkingpig@hotmail.com

If you have a steering rack, or at least the tie-rod ends, and will ship to australia - please let me know Charles, - walkingpig@hotmail.com

Selling my Long R200 diff, its open and 3.7:1, originated from a 280zx Its in top condition and includes the halfshafts. All offers welcome, some politely refused:) walkingpig@hotmail.com 0419993515 I'm in Toowoomba Australia - can organise freight to anywhere in australia.

nice work man:) my girlfriend is demanding i get a screen installed so she can play the playstation while i'm out talking at the car meets each weekend:) i never thought of putting the screen in the glovebox, the ps2 was giong to go there, good stuff:)

If i was the owner i would not be pleased with you.... luckily you had no idea what you were talking about so he might not mind so much

Firstly it may help to point out that i am from Australia. The RB shipped in Nissan skylines from 1989 onwards, the R32, not counting the older SOCH RB30ET The RB20DET is an RB 2000cc DOHC Efi Turbo (correct me others if that is wrong) Over here the 280ZX wwas never releases as a turbo. it is quite expensive to build one. For the RB20, the modifications are quite minimal. and for example, i have only the basics(an intercooler,3inch exhaust, pod filter, and a small upgrade from stock T2 turbo to T3 from a VG30 engine) It is expected to make at least 240rwhp at 13psi. while the RB20 is the baby of the RB series, it is capable of making some serious power also. And at less cost than an L28 i would imagine (especially in australia) Anyway, my point is i looked into both - and the RB is in my opinion a much better choice. but there are many many resons behind that decision

The mounts did line up correctly:) Unfortunately my L Crossmember was stolen by the man i sold my engine too - do not deal with him, i was conned and stolen from. So we just made a custom one, it does run on an angle however (yes i'm using the rb gearbox) Pics are on the way, camera is with my mother at the moment:) she needed it for a wedding

Thanks, I hope it will. I might need to get some tires on there, my mild l24 could make enough smoke.. that was only half the power this has The point of the post was, that i know how hard it is to get some genuine info on the swap, so there is some and i'm here to talk to anyone that needs to know something - if ican help walkingpig@hotmail.com - i live on msn:)

Hey All, I never got much of a response from Hybrids, so this stays here where i feel happier:) Please note, in the near future i'll add this info to my website with pictures included. The Scenario *********** The warm L24 sounded great, but just didn't have to go when push came to shove. I'd always dreamed of the mighty Rb26 but it was far out of my price range. So i was off tuning my SU's one day and took the car for a sprint down an industrial street - to the amusement of a Police cameravan, i prefer to consider myself lucky i was only caught at 104 in a 60, not the 140 icould have been. So i lost my license, and though PERFECT. Since then every dollar has gone into my Z I went out and purchased a halfcut for my Blue 2 seater 260z in the form of an Rb20DET. ********************* WORK BEGINS I am by no means a mechanic, so between friends and a very good local performance mechanic - the car was set to work apon. Out came the old engine and gearbox, and preparations began to slot the new gear in. I imagine this bit will be of the most interest to you. We found that the Mounts were all a perfect lineup, the engine mounts sat square, and the gearboxmounts lined up with the tailshaft slotting in perfectly and the selector coming up nicely through the floor, if a little forward. However there was a problem, the rb mounts pushed it about 2 cms outside the constrains of the bonnet. So, with all my friends driving damn Mini's, i had to call a towing company to charge $25 to go 400 meters down the road to my mechanic. They made my custom sump for me, and also chopped a little off the right mound, and remade the left mount to suit, as the engine sat on a slight angle. Having these things fixed, the engine now sits perfectly, and the bonnet clearance is a few cms or more! For the sump they chopped the bowl out and made a new bottom with the bowl more towards the middle(to allow the engine to gearbox mounting bracket to go on. This is where we are up to, (i decided to post now as most people are interested in getting the car in - not buying exhausts and coolers) but needless , i'll fill in the 'to come' bits below ************ ON THE WAY Next stop is the last of the difficult things, the wiring. The engine bay side is easy and normal, however interfacing with the old guages is the unsurity, It is planned and recommended that we just splice and join the new loom into the old loom where needed, given on the RB20 the speedo cable is still mechanical, and the Tacho can be connected to the coil still. its only a few other guages (we all know) that need connecting.. And the ignition. Hopefully this will be conquered by me and a friend, but if not the mechanics will take care of it.. for a hefty sum:) Following that, i am replacing the stuffed turbo with a small upgrade to the VG30 T3 model. I'm also going all out on the exhaust, including a $550 custom dump with separate pipes for main and wastegate, an item proven to bring the RB20 onboost 800rpm earlier... connecting to this will be the 3inch mandrel bent exhaust all the way to the back(with CAT and Muffler in there) The intercooler is a 600x300x76 HYBRID rated to a pressure drop of 1.5psi at 600hp. It will also be connected with mandrel bent stainless steel. once this is all done and the mod plate passed, i will finish the custom stero that is midway to completion (but no one here seems interested in them), and add things like a surge tank for when i am forced to corner hard with no fuel:) If anyone is interested - I am also midway through a central lockig, and power windows expedition - it is working very successfully. Will post pictures and info on my website. ************* Summary So.. if you hadn't noticed, i'm after the beautiful Z car looks, with some real useful power, and a more modern feel to it. Most of you will probably stomp up and down yelling about this:) Judging by another RB20 my mechanic just worked on with the same turbo and exhaust/cooler as me, it should come in at about 240RWHP at 13psi. Something that should keep me happy for a while, and then a little bit longer when i get my license back:) As i said, A full pictured explanation of the entire project will be available on my website when i get a littlemore time (assignment) ************** The Goal of this was to help those who are contemplating the RB swap find a little more out about how it actually works when push comes to shove... Keep in mind that that while the RB series is almost physically identical - the R25, R26, R30 all have a Higher engined by varied amounts - so be prepared for a bit more work getting it to fit under the bonnet. I hope i have helped!

hey all, As very few of you will know, i'm currently doing the rb20det swap. and am at the modify the sump point, contrary to popular rumor, you can't just take it off spin it 180 deg and put it back on, the ends are a slightly different shape with different screw holes, and rather than just welding it on, i'd like to do this the right way. So i went and was quoted $400 by places to cut top inch or two off the sump (screwwhole layer etc) and swing THAT around and weld it back on... thus being able to bolt it on again. $400 is pretty ridiculous so Can anyone here point me to someone in South East Queensland that can do this cheaper? Or anyone on these forums with a TIG or something, and capable of doing the cut and weld - i will pay you Please help asap!, Charles you can contact me here, on walkingpig@hotmail.com. and 0419993515 -------------------- off topic - mods - is there a blacklist of people you've dealt with regarding Zcars? i have someone to add that has conned, and stolen from me that i dont want other people to have to find out the hard way over.....

i would like to finish my rb20 swap:) it wont be a rb26 monster, but still faster than the average zear

thanks man! for a computer nerd - i'm hopeless at forums:$

i always thought there were 2 types, one with close 1-2 gears and a big gap up to 3rd, and one with the big gap between 1 and 2 mine would be the first type, when i pull the stuff out of the car... i still wont know how to tell what ratio - but if you know how to tell let me know

Hello all, I searched here and Hybrids, couldn't find what i was after, i'm wondering what the simplest rear disc upgrade is on a Z, is there such a thing as a bolt-on swap for something like a skyline or 280zx? . alternatively, what shoudl i be chasing down for the easiest swap, and what is involved in getting them on and working (including hand-brake) THanks in advance! Charles

Hey all I no longer have need for my L24 etc with the onset of an RBswap For sale is.. L24: mild cam port and polish mildly lightened and balanced flywheel it was like this when i bought the car, its run well and is great fun to drive, exhaust can go with it if you want, its 2 1/4 inch from memory and is ... not legal (volume) Unknown K's , but the mods were done just before i bought it so, at a scarey assumption, it had a reasonable rebuild at that point. The gearbox is from a 260z, it had been completely rebuilt and only done 5000k or so, changes smoother than i've seen in a Z, and clutch has done even less mileage. Also available (apon finding an R200) an R180, it is a very fresh rebuild also, done 6 months ago as with the gearbox. Make me offers on what you want! im interested in swap etc for an R200 below 4:1 ratio, and preferable but not essential LSD.(also interested in gear for rear disc conversion) for more info, contact me on 0419993515 or walkingpig@hotmail.com happy to arrange shipping to anywhere in aus for everything except the engine (i have no way to move it to a transport company) My Location is Toowoomba, Queensland. P.S. - if you are after anything that is liable to be swapped out with all the new RB gear coming in feel free to contact me as above.

Hey all Chasing a R200 preferably LSD. Make me an offer! i'm sure you all know the type we use in Z's? must be under 4.11:1 (want one in the 3's) email me at walkingpig@hotmail.com with what you have, even if it doesn't meet my requirements, i will need to get one so i'll settle for the best of what there is? Charles

Hey all (dont run screaming scared of another million words of rubbish) I like that install in the 280zx:) nice and neat.... I thought i'd update what i'm up to anyway(now you can run!) I am having custom fibreglass doors made up as i type, they are being built to house a 6.5 inch, a 4.5 inch and a 2 inch tweeter, these fit comfortably with the correct staging... (this is actually a set of splits + a 4.5inch 2-way speaker) but will accomodate for some of the uppermarket companies that make a 3-way split (6.5, 4,2) speaker system. Unfortunately my experiment with 280zx power window motors failed so i can't fit the 6.5inch 2 ways in to help reinforce midbass.(has anyone successfully converted to power windows, i understand there is a type of motor that will fit into basically any door, but have no idea which cars to pillage at the junkyard!) ------ For anyone that has investigated fibreglass work for car stero's, you will know it is NOT cheap. Just incase any of you are interested i can have these door cards replicated for you, price would start at $550 for the pair+ shipping, covered in your choice of material for aruond $600 for the pair i would take a guess and say there aren't many people THAT obsessed with their stero like me! but if anyone is interested, i'll have pictures in a week(when they are finished) so let me know if you want some posted)! the 6.5 and the 4.5 inch are both being sealed at the back to prevent any phasing issues, and of course i'm using Fusion speakers. for under 900-1000 +p&s) you can have them speakers included.(around the cost you are likely to spend having door cards made up on their own at most places) I dont suppose anyone is interested, but if you are... 0419993515, walkingpig@hotmail.com

yes its a red top:) thats all i know my plans were to use its sump and mounts... allowing me to mount the more modern variety into my car. but the mounts are a joke to find as the 200zr's barely exist in australia so i give up:) but as far as i know, the rb's are similar to the L6's in that they ahve the same dimensions .. before you add the various turbo's etc shrug find me some 200zr mounts and sump and i'll marry you:) ok maybe not but .. hi!