Walkingpig

I just read the entire topic, and i didn't notice (apologies for blindness) a issue that i see as a having a huge effect on what 'speeding' should be. The Car!? Take my situation.. 1985 ford laser stock as they come, 1974 260z with nice suspension and a warm motor both are very different cars. the Z is a pleasure to drive, i love to go into the corners at 60, and hit the pedal midway and (as you all know) she just does as she's told..., now take me switching to the laser for a cheaper drive across town, i have in the past forgotten a small fact, its the LASER not the ZED! it slides going through a corner at 60 (fortunately didn't roll) and as someone made a point - i was checking my speedo coming up to a common police area rather than concentrating on my car, its limits, my limits, and the roads limits. also the lasers brakes are terrible in comparison, the wheels are closing in on half the width... they lock easier, and dont slow me up any where near as quick as the Z. however, given all this praise of the Z. All the same, in the rain, if i breathe on my accelerator i go sliding:( whereas in the laser, you can put the pedal on the floor and there isn't the power to start a spin(almost) The point is.. Driving a Lada Diva, and driving a porsche 911 are extremely different things - and i dont need to expand that.... the porsche could probably pull up from 3x the speed in the same distance. Understandably you need to add human response times. But in my mind this is a serious point.... --------------------------------------------------------------------- You can stop here.... i felt like waffling for longer but unless you're a cat, you've probably better things to do All i want to say is, the type of car has a HUGE part to play in the safety and the avoidability of any situation. Feel free to flame me and disagree:) --------------------------------------------------------------------- Some of us drive some seriously performance oriented cars, and that means we have cars that handle like a slot car, go like the wind and have huge stoppers poking out from behind each corner. So why are we penalised for not abiding by laws that were designed and structured (assumedly) on statistics from ours and other countries around the world that represent the mass population, of which high performance cars make very little to no impact due to the sheer size of the SUV and Family car markets... blah blah But of course they can't have one rule for the commodore, one rule for the falcon, and one for the barina (sorry americans) what if one commodore has new sports tyres, shouldn't he be allowed to go faster because he can pull up and corner slightly better? etc etc blah blah.. it is impossible to enforce a grey area, so we are stuck abiding to a very black and white rulebook. After all, logic says it has to be this way What gets me, is the way the rules are enforced, i've heard and shared many cop stories, and without bias (i am unusually calm writing this!) there are so many more reflecting a bad attitude towards owners of flashy cars! i've be stalked the width of the town for an "rbt" and known people that were let go at a displayed 38 over the limit (and he knows he was)! But its not only police, i've been sworn at and had rude signals shown to me by people in other cars countless times (and never once from a nice new car) always old beaten cars with dinged panels etc. Do the police have an inferiority complex and grudge just like them? why come down harder on someone that is less endangering to the safety of a given situation i'm going to shutup now and sleep i'll waffle another day *dodges rotten tomatoes* speaking of which, haven't tomatoes been poor quality lately... good time to plant a tomato seed! i am scared of food poisoning everytime i eat one!

Hello I will pay freight from anywhere in aus i desperately need a 260z indicator stem (mine is broke, i have a spare '71 240z stem that is slightly different, but also broken anyway) somebody please have a spare! it may help to buy the light/wiper side as well to ensure the high beam switch interfaces.. but not necessary PLEASE HELP AAAAAAAAAASAP 0419993515 walkingpig@hotmail.com i need one very quickly:(? Charles

hey drunkenmaster i'll take some pics when i have some time today, if you could just fire me an email it would make it easier, as i can check my email a lot more often that i get a chance to browse the net... ie check here:) thankyou:>

Hey all i finally pulled my spare car apart. I have an L26, with the good SU's, and a flywheel that is now rusty :stupid: from it copping alittle weather before i had a chance to cover it. everything else is from the 240 and are 240z items diff, driveshaft, tailshafts, gearbox also have brakes, suspension for all 4's 2 280zx rims 2 260z rims i will separate the twin SU's if requested, and the e88 head... if anyone ones one:) ALSO i have the following rust panels 2 sills -underneath the doors 2 floorboards top slampanel piece chassis rails.. and gussets. they are very good quality items and were expensive:) ------------------------ You can contact me at walkingpig@hotmail.com or on 0419993515 anyone in austraila welcome.

I have recently done the same thing i purchased some 6.5 inch splits, 12 inch sub with ported box, and 2 amps (all fusion equipment of course - starts brand wars) and i first started with a wonderful cardboard template for actually bolting the 6.5 inches onto the rear struts. but this is hard and very bad since the bolts are also holding your suspension in:) so in the end i modified the project to have a flat bottom(not sloped around the shape of the strut towers and simply mounted them on strong brackets coming off the sub box which is facing backwards shooting up into the rear glass. I do like my SQ so i want stero separation and that meant lifiting the midrange 6.5's up high enough to get over the seats, and 6x9's on the floor(setup in car when i bought it) do not cut it, and it doesn't help that they aren't the best at SQ anyway the problem is that having them up near the seats, the difference in distance between the speaker behind your head and the one behind the passenger is huge like 2-3x the distance, as opposed to a normal car where they are out on the parcel shelf and a few triangles would hlep you see what i mean if you dont already:> (note my speaker boxes also point the speakers towards the center of the car slightly, not just dead ahead. All in all it does sound quite nice but nowhere near nice enough ::PROBLEMS:: - my sub blows the speakers apart (could just turn it down)- so i am moving the splits to the doors - and putting some 6.5 inch 2 ways in the boxes behind, this will give me more noise outside sub range. Also moving the little splits(currently mounted at the top front corner of the windscreen(way to loud there even on half volume) down to normal position in the corners of the dash(some people make custom plates and put them in the left and right air con vents)) - as previously menitioned - alternator, my alternator was not healthy to start with, so after not being quite sure why my stero was distorting badly and was NOT loud at all, i decided it was electrical problem, especially when my dash stgarted going completely blank, it turned out that the alternator positive peg looked like an oxy torch was shooting out of it, the bolt/stud was completely charcoaled.... I now have a 60amp alternator, and to be honest, if i was to run another sub i would either need bigger, or a decent size capacitor to take the big hits. as at half volume i'm still losing power at idle.. good as long as i dont idle too long:) - Z cars do NOT, repeat do NOT rattle like some cars do with big stero's, they shake to the point you wonder they haven't fallen apart! my very next step is sound deadening ANYWHERE I CAN GET IT the rear badges are going to fly off soon i think:) all the metal panels vibrate.. i can't get my gear over half volume on the head unit without this unwanted problem:) so anyway, thats about it for the trials and tribulations of my sound setup:| Sorry if that was long winded, but i hope it helps direct you as to what to do and what not to even bother trying:) in summary - i am pleased with my boxes, and sub and the mounting, they barely even touch your rear veiw. and proxamalus i just have one question? why did you set your subs forward not backwards? i'm curious:) ---------------------------- if anyone is interested my next steps will be to remout the boxes i made in the same position they are currently in. but allowing me to remove the sub box, as i will have a custom fibreglass box made up (lots of money) that curves.. use imagination here.... around behind the strut towers T1_______T2 | / \ | Imagine T1T2 strut towers, S - 12 inch sub | / S S \ |but it will curve rather than be straight like that:) |/ \ | | | | | if i got so carried away. the third and final step would be another custom box mounting a 15inch in the tire well. but we all have other things to do with our money:) I am sorry if i droned on too long! which i definately did, and i should move this disclaimer to the top of the page or nobody will see it since you stopped reading on line 6:) ---------------------------------------------- final note - if you want SQ - you have to sacrifice your beautiful L2x engine/exhaust growl, it really interferes with what you hear:)

thankyou for the reply lance she is all up and running i did have the wires right as yo usaid! it was a bloody fusible link, it was blown to buggery!

Hey all I just swapped my l26 out for a warm l24, yesterday actually, and after taking detailed photos of the starter and alternator nothing bloody well works! i believe i have it all wired the right way i can't even get my stero to be 'off' (ie power by remote wire to keep and show time) lights dont work, indicators... Let alone the bloody starter! could someone please tell me lots of good stuff! [starter] [solenoid I have the positive lead from the battery on the outer terminal, on the inner all i have is the lead coming direct from the starter to the solenoid. and a little black wire from who knows where.. that i'm positive (no pun intended) came off the inner terminal i have the only wire possible connected to the spade terminal in the middle also on the outer terminal i have a white cable, i have a very thin red one, and a greenygreyie(i'm colorblindish) cable I have the Earth wire on the top bolt that holds hte starter to the bellhousing(earth that comes out of the battery) [alternator] i have hte plasic clip in its spot on hte outer terminal i have the white with red stripe wire on the inner terminal i think its a black one. there is also a little cylinder thing sitting there coming off a white wire, not sure which side it should beon ok thast about all... the battery is NOT flat the fundamentals.. i am getting zero power anywhere, turning the key to on doesn't give lights, doesn't give cranking, doesn'te ven make the solenoid click!, doesn't make stero, gauges, or indicators come alive i will get a hold of a multimeter tomorrow. are there anythings anyone can tell me to do before i pay through the roof for an auto electrician to come and rewire it all! thankyou, Charles

Thats a nice and talked about idea. and something i wouldn't mind doing at some point! BUT, my question was in regard to mounting, and i have since had confirmed that the 200zr engine mounts will mount an RB series engine perfectly.(thankyou stony's website:)) Thanks for your time!

Hello i've been considering the RB swap for sometime... i was told by a decently reliable source that the 200zr (z31 300zx) rb20det actually bolts straight onto the 260z.... as opposed to the R32 skyline models which need modified mounts can someone confirm or othewise this!? as i have the oportunity to buy one in hte next few days! Thanks, Charles

Hello i've been considering the RB swap for sometime... i was told by a decently reliable source that the 200zr (z31 300zx) rb20det actually bolts straight onto the 260z.... as opposed to the R32 skyline models which need modified mounts can someone confirm or othewise this!? as i have the oportunity to buy one in hte next few days! Thanks, Charles (and i'm asking on hybridz too!)

Hey Chasing an L28E preferably with ecu also under circumstances.. obviously.. an aftermarket ecu and wiring loom L20ET turbo manifold etc... you see where i'm aimin:) if you have anything i need let me know walkingpig@hotmail.com 0419993515 i'm in QLD aus, but willing to pay freight across aus for the right items:)

tell me what it is and i'll tell yo where to go just kidding

Hey all, Just curious, how many of the original guages from the 240/260's will work with an rb engine dont things like the tacho and speedo run off the ecu? how many do you need to replace!?

according to my mechanic.. whenni had this problem... all 6 cylinders have the same firing order (inline 6's) could be wrong but he's been at it a while so either he see's a lot of the same cars, or... (i'm not sure what that order is but yeah.... we've all got wired Z's in our yards we could walk out to and have a look for you.. if we weren't at work:) P.S - dont forget to put the first lead back on.. it makes for a rough drive 4 cyls have 1.. .v8's have a few(according to him - who listed them from memory)

adding... (absent minded moron here) bought a set of rust replacement work from BBalls who frequents these forums they include sills, slam panel, floors, chassis rails and gussets they are as i bought them and will letthem go for decent prices as they are not cheap!

you will find us a bloody friendly mob... some people are too interested in being cool and are above talking to the lowly test driver:) but they are idiots and we flame them wherever posisbly :stupid: however, if you jump on skylinesdownunder or skylines australia forums and ask about it.. i'm sure plenty will help also try boostcruising.com or nissansivlia.com:) they are my favs outside the Z world (search for the top 2 at google as i'm not sure whether they come with .coms or .com.au... and i'm in a rush:) (they are in my favories) (and yes i'm really in a rush i can just type fast;)

believe me he was extatic! it was much nicer than that ugly yellow skyline lachy!!!

Ok my NZ friend... firstly the Blue one was mine... that photo is one i took a year ago I've chatted briefly wiht ian since he started restoring it... email me at walkingpi@hotmail.com, i have about 20 photos of it and can tell you what it was like. SJcurtis... if i can find my old roadworthy papers i'll be able to give you at least some of the numbers... one day i'll get the time to also look at the rusty car you asked details for a while ago and if you want my 8/74 2 seater260 i can get them shortly too

Man come for a trip over... if you can go down the Esplanade at thegold coast and stand in one single point for 2 minutes and not see a skyline, i will eat my hat! (its chocolate anyway) Less supras, but skylines are all the craze here.. and they are getting quite high powered.. such as "ON BAIL" who's got some excessive horsepower... last dyno day he managed to break his intercooler the day before, and ooonly mdae 400hp at the wheels.. (friends report, i wasn't there) other people here could tell you more accurately Anyways, you must have areas over there in the bigger cities where you can find all the nice cars? Find those spots! they give you a will to finish your Z:) www.boostcruising.com is a mob of people from the goldcoast who post pictures of when they go out cruising.. i always wondered where the Z's were, and finally after months of nothing.. i see a decidedly average 280zx come up in a picture and they went wild... mustn't see many 240's:) anyways ill shutup! come to australia, but make a stopoff in japan for cheaper gofastbits:) they can be expensive here... *wonders how much of this he could get flamed for, for possibly imprecise statements*

Note... finally decided which engine to run in my new car Add to the list a L26.. with or without whatever... can match a decent gearbox, or can pull apart even. also available, complete pedal assembly to convert auto car to a manual car will be sold with gearbox if needed

not sure which you are.. i had a few.. none with gee in "from" spot:) butyou should have a reply

Hi Guys, I would like to offer you first dibs of the carcass of my failed 240 project everything is there and most of it was working, it must go soon Its a 71 240Z with manual gearbox, many usable panels. Good centre console, basically everything is there. Let me know what you want, and I can post pictures here or email them to you. Would prefer to email. email - walkingpig@hotmail.com Charles

I had a quick chat to cuong, and he's stopped making them! Drunkenmaster - do you have any contact details for the people you spoke too.. Were they "240 rb26" mounts off the shelf:) or were they stock mounts for some other engine that just happened to work right:) So does anyone out there know what i've got to do to make the sump fit? And where i can find some mounts? Also can anyone CONFIRM that you can't mount an rb20det onto the crossmembers themselves. as i'm told you can by a few people... confirm means you've tried and it didn't work.. not "i haven't heard that before":) (sorry) Also, are the mountst he same for the whole RB series? meaning an rb26 mount fits an rb20 also? and even rb30? thanks again guys, Charles

Hey there, Aussie here.... i had a quick search and didn't find anything specific about the mounts I am wondering how to go about getting mounts made for the new engine, and how much i should be willing to spend on the mounts... Also aussies - what legal dramas are there with putting an RB20DET in?

Cool bolting up the guards is the way i want to go Bballs hasn't replied for a few days, but i'm after a mild one, he's mentioned the one on his blue car... which looks awesome does as such, but from some angle it looks a bit serious, i might go with it anyway yet. but i know he has 2 , not sure how his other one works... thanks for the help, and i am in queensland do the z car workshop make them or did they just have some lying around:)?