LanceM

It wasn't untill you mentioned it that I realised that was what was missing! I sure think that some of the problems I'm finding wouldn't have happened if sealer would have been used. Picked up a tube of 3M today, things will be sealed before painting this time! Thanks for the word!

Thanks for posting that link CoastGuardZ I missed that one and it shows alot! Ron, considering some of the other ideas that I have had this one could be a piece of cake The more I look at it though a replicar would sure fit the bill for being something different on the road

Thanks to all of you, I'm not really interested in building a replicar but I do like that paint job, I'm really thinking of doing it just without the numbers and graphics and maybe with some pearl

Thanks guys! off to the photo album I go!

I've searched the internet and the books I have but not been able to find much other than quarter front shots. I would like to see what the whole paint scheme was/looked like, especially the rear of the car. This is one of the best shots I've found below with #0006 in the middle, but as you can see it's only an upper front view. Anyone got any others?

Since you have bolt sticking out of the block you are in great shape IMO. The best way to get it out is to find a nut that will fit over what is sticking out, tighter the better and weld it on. The heat from welding will break the bolt loose from the block and you will be able to use a wrench to take it out. Now the big deal, you don't have access to a welder I bet... find one, vice grips will probably only make things worse IMO...

Personally I find the name of the current high bidder the biggest laugh of all, fuzzygrapes That's just what I would expect to see driving that car, someone with fuzzygrapes, if you get my drift Ah I kill me

Speaking in very basic terms: 1 Mechanical work first, grease, dents, scratches, and oh craps will be taken care of next. 2. Exterior body work, bodywork creates lots of dust and when least expected overspray right where you don't want it. 3. Interior last, how did you know you had a big glob of grease on your butt when you went to move the car after replacing ? mechanical, or woops, crap just shot paint though the tail light opening cause the tape came loose, wow look at the carpet! So think of it as dirty underside first, now dirty upper side next, clean the interior last

First, glad that you not hurt worse! Second, what Beandip said double. They are at fault, take your time and heal up first, settle nothing until you are certain that everything is going to be taken care of in a manor with YOUR interests first. Since you have an insured valuation of $18K you got them by the short hairs, I would expect the car to be returned to its prewreck condition. Take care of yourself! PS, I have State Farm insurance and anytime I've had a fender bent by someone else I take all the info along with repair estimates, tow, rental car, all the rest to my agent. I never deal with the other insurance company, everytime my agent has cut me a check for the repair and other items and I'm on my way no hassle, they take up the fight for me, besides that's what I'm paying him all that money each year for I figure! In the last 30 years I've been hit 5 times by somebody and I've never delt with the other insurance company. May be something to try, see how hard your agent wants to keep your business.

I've never seen anything but it is probably because the process is so simple that it never was thought needed. Master is a matter of crawling under the dash and pulling a pin from the pedal arm, top side remove the line (10mm flare wrench is best), remove 2 nuts holding master to firewall, remove master, install by reversing the process. Slave, crack flex line loose, remove 2 bolts holding slave, remove slave from flex hose. Install: install and tighten flex line, install slave, bleed system. Adjustment of master pushrod length may be required to get correct pedal travel. At least that's all I remember having to do, the under the dash part is the worst part of the whole operation. Sounds like your master is gone, the slave is cheap and probably going to follow the master soon so you might as well change them both and eliminate any future problems for a long time to come.

I had a simular thing only a little worse after a 18 year sit. One valve would stick bad enough that it would throw the rocker, talk about a racket! I cured it by adding about a pint of Marvel Mystery oil and starting and letting it idle with some low reving until it came up to temp, after a week or so of this once a day I changed the oil and the problem hasn't been back. I think it may have just been gunk on the valve stem or maybe a little rust that had to clean itself up, the Marvel is thin enough that more of it could bypass the seals and lube things a little better and clean things up. My $.02

For the price it would be worth it to find out. Sure looks like the original.... At a second look they have a number to call for a sample, when I get to the point of replacing mine I'm going to call, I still have my originals which are OK but not great so I at least have something to compare to.

I have a turbo style on mine, 18" overall including pipes, 14" long body 10" wide. I don't think anything much larger would fit easily without rebending pipes.

I guess for me it's just in the end you end up with a nothing, a kit car. If money wasn't an issue I'd go for the real thing, why work so hard on a fake??

Thanks E, As usual the search function, if used, provides the answer Along with another of your fantastic write ups!! Looks like I was right the hinge rotates also changing the height... now to work!

I've got the same problem except backwards, I'm at the end of the adjustment and am still too low.... I have found that there are differenced between 240 and 280 hinges, 280 hinges don't open as far as 240 hinges. Question, are you using a steel hood or a fiberglass one? The reason I ask is that with my fiberglass one I have to remove the torsion springs, without them I can lift the front of the hood into the correct position but it falls when I let go. I'm thinking if I had the springs in the front would be lifted to the correct position but put too much stress on the hood over time. Perhaps if you remove your springs everything will be ok??? Something I might try tonight is to see if the hinge will rotate, all I have been doing is pulling straight up on it to it's upper adjustment limits, I'm wondering now if I rotate it (for lack of a better term) around one of the adjustment bolts, setting one end high the oppitsit side low (see where I'm going here??) that this will change the upper level more since it appears that the hinge center point really isn't in the center since they unfold the way that they do. Your case is worse in at least I can shim the crap out of the hood to get it where it needs to be. Are you sure that you don't have the fenders pushed too low on the car?? How does the front door seam look? That's about all of my ideas, let me know what you find as I'm still working on it too going the other way

I wouldn't mess with it on the engine, you'll never get all of it out and you'll end up sucking it into the engine on startup. The problem is your valve guide seals are shot allowing oil to soak down the valve stem where it creates these deposits. If you are not going to pull the head to fix it I would leave it alone.

I don't think so, I believe the door lock is different and can't be switched.

If I remember correctly any of the Z - ZX master cylinders will mount to any booster though the front rear hookups may be reversed, so I would think a spacer from any year Z would or should work...

HDC, Don't go away mad, you just hit a well covered sore topic, as you have seen. In the last couple of months this site has had it seems an influx of new members, which is great. The problem that follows is that the new members ask their questions thinking this is the first time that someone would ask such a thing, I've done it myself, and got hounded for it too.... The trick to keep it from happening is to use the search function, both here and any other new forum you go to. The forums have been here a long time and contain a wealth of information, if you can't find an answer there, ask, the members here are some of the most helpful you will find when it comes helping you with a Z problem or question. But, they expect that you will try to help yourself first, doing a search. Let us know when you get that 280, post some pics when you get it home!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1933&highlight=240+bumper

Well after a closer look at what is left of mine I'd say Enrique hit the nail on the head. They are installed before the handle is assembled...

When removing the door handles I found that there are 2 rubber gaskets that seal the handle to the door on my 240. Are these available anywhere? I looked in VB's catalog and didn't see them.

Nevermind 2 bolts and 10 seconds later I had it out, and here I thought it was going to be a major operation!!

I did a search and found alot about adjusting the door glass but none about removing and reinstalling it. Is there an easy way? I want to take it out to paint if it isn't more work than just masking it all off and winding it down.