LanceM

Need more info, is it the mechanical or electric pump that has died? If it is a factory add on electric there is a filter in the bottom of it that may be clogged. If it is the mechanical pump replace it with a stock replacement.

Sorry, no artist here, finding pics on the web I can do BuDavid, try a google web search for Dynomax, they are a muffler manufacture in the US and they may have better photos than the one I found showing how their mufflers are built. Another search you may want to try would be Turbo muffler.

The object of a muffler is to cool and slow the exhaust, both making it quieter. I've attached a pic I got off the web showing the internals of a typical turbo style muffler. Hope it helps.

240/260's are about the same car except for the bumpers. I can't say for absolute sure but early 240 bumpers probably could be made to fit, I think people are swapping them on 280's. Collapsing the bumper shocks is also an option. Major concern in any Z is rust, check the floor pans under the carpet and the frame rails. do a search on rust and there are bound to be pics showing what to watch for. Nothing wrong with a 260, just sort of a bastard child between the 240 and the 280 being built for only one year. Besides the bumpers and the larger engine I'm not sure that there is any other differances that matter between it and a 73 240.

Looking at the first pic that came up I would say no. That is the fresh air intake to the passengers compartment. Being that air moves through there regularly moisture build up should be miminual along with rust. Never seen a Z rust through there. If you have a long flexable wand you could reach back that far going through the intake where the plastic intake tubes attach and spray in your rust proofing materials.

Ah OK, I understand now Thanks for the link Chris!

So are you also installing an electric fan also?? or are you adding the electric pump to boost the mechanical??? I think an electric fan w/o the pump would have been the way to go, airflow through the radiator is what cools, increasing the fluid flow without increasing the cooling air will only allow less time for the fluid to be cooled in the radiator probably causing instead of cureing an overheating problem.

I don't think I would want to buy from this guy even if he had a BIN price of $50, I sure wouldn't want to meet him in person!!!

Vapor lock is when the fuel boils and vaporizes in the fuel line before reaching the carbs. Typical symptoms while driving is a running out of gas type of feeling often with surges as some liquid gets through. The most common problem with vapor lock is during a hot start, like you stop to get gas and when you start you can't as the under hood temps have gone up a lot and the fuel has boiled out of both the bowls and the fuel lines. The easiest fix is an electric fuel pump at the tank, this will push the cooler fuel to and through the fuel mechanical pump to the carbs.

I don't see that R&R of the tank is a big deal, I've had the one out of my 73 several times. Sure it's a PIA but no big deal, you want one that sucks do an 89 Olds 88, took me 4 hours just to get the tank down! The only must have is a floor jack or somebody to hold the tank during the take out/put in... if you are replacing the hoses anyway cut the old ones and drop the tank, route the new and trim and connect as you jack the tank into position. Unless the filler hose cracks or tears or is cracked I wouldn't replace it.

That would do it, but surely you have smelled it haven't you?? It had to be smoking!

Tabco only sells replacement "repair panels", so it's cut and weld type of stuff. They make great parts and at least for me in IN they ship free and their price is less than VB and the rest dealing direct. The only problem I've had recently is that they are way behind and it seems to me that they are filling big comercial orders before us little guys. I've had 2 rear quarter repair panels on order for about a month now for my son's truck and they aren't here yet, and from Dec '04 through Mar '05 I called every 2 weeks about the availablity of a dogleg for my 240 and kept getting the same old "they should be available in 2 weeks"... ended up ordering from VB and paying about $15-20 more just to get the project moving forward, BTW it was a Tabco marked part

My $.02 here after reading this debate... First off I think the question is poorly asked, which is better? That's like saying which is better, Ford or Chevy?... For what, how, and when?? High reving, torque, longevity, or simply the easiest to build the most power for the least bucks... This debate will go on forever unless you define the question to a specific point....

that baby has gotten hot, real hot, and I would say falls into the "not normal" for 7K miles IMO. You might want to think about having the flywheel checked and resurfaced for the new clutch.

Each caliper will require one rubber boot and one rubber sealing ring.

My guess would be that the input shaft of the replacement driveshaft was polished below spec when it was refurbished.

Clutch and brake peddle assembly, manual trans consol, shifter knob... Plus you will have to wire around the neutral safety switch, and will probably have to run a wire with the correct connector for the reverse light switch which is on the tranny.

That's what it's suppose to look like?? Whow I need a new one

I would check/replace the coil. It maybe opening up once it gets hot. Best thing to do is get it hot and failing and check and see if you have spark. Right now it looks like you don't know for sure what you are missing during a failure.

I did it to my 73, like Dudeboy said, weld and fill...

I don't think there is much of a trick, mostly getting things started square and going slow. Along with having something of the right diameter to seat the pin once you reach the side of the piston.

Short and sweet, if you can get $100 for the combo I'd smile and wave as they pulled away. Nobody wants a 73 240 motor, and for sure absolutely nobody wants an auto tranny..... but if you can get more than that more power to ya!

A locked door and a rolled up window is probably the best defense, if the window goes it's really time to consider yourself in harms way... and then time to take the necessary action to defend yourself... of course the best action ever is to keep yourself out of harms way, trouble is as you have found, these people seem to be looking for it... I keep thinking of the Darwin awards and keep thinking that the gene pool needs more chlorine...

I guess I'm lucky, the place I go to you just sign a waiver for getting hurt and you go wander around. You yank what you want and head back to the counter, usually the girl looks at it and says "that it?" I say "yep" she says "$20" I say, "but it's rusty and scrached up and the only one I can find, $10" she says "$15 and that's it", I pull out my money and go My best buy was a set of M/T cast aluminum valve covers for the 355 I put in my Blazer, I put the dirty nasty looking things on the floor, bottom up of course, got them for $15 for the pair, went home and looked on ebay they are running around $80 a pair Anyway most of the ones around here will let you go "looking", just tell them you're building a rod and are trying to scope out if a so and so headlight assembly or something will work. Others will only let you go out with a yard worker who will pull the part, I just don't go to them anymore.

Just to add my fun story of idiot drivers, I was hauling a trailer with my camo Blazer, the night before we had a record rain and there were places that water still came on to the road. This ye-ha in a shiny new black Blazer was trying to hop a ride on the trailer I think, he was that close. Well of course there is a large puddle covering my lane on the 2 lane highway and a semi coming towards me so no going around it, knowing I could track through it I went on and Mr. black blazer gets a bath. Needless to say the single finger salute comes out the drivers window, like it's my fault he's following so close but I just keep driving on, him even closer than before, he must have had a learning disability... We get to town and I take the right turn lane figuring this guy is going to blow me a major amount of you know what and things could turn ugly.... well for some reason, even though he was going straight and had no one in front of him he stayed back next to the trailer in the straight lane and didn't move till I pulled forward and turned right at the green light.... I mentioned it to a friend and he said, "Well hell yes, that guy probably figured that life as he knew it was coming to an end, what idiot would flip off some redneck in a camo Blazer, any idiot could imagine what that redneck has under the seat!" And my buddy is right, except it isn't under the seat, it's in the console, good old Sam Colt, and my favorite year 1911.... But I must admit, being that I comute 80 miles a day round trip that my favorite tactic for the incessant tailgater is a slowdown and a right turn signal, only adds a few seconds to my drive and gets them off my butt... I usually catch up to them at the next light 10 miles down the road with a smile on my face Glad to hear that you are OK Jason, drive safe and watch for idiots, they are EVERYWHERE!!!