LanceM

50, and only feel it when I have to get up from under a car to go get the right tool, again!

My first was a 64 Olds F-85 2 door, good car ended up getting rear ended by a bus one day cutting school. The second one was better, a loaded 70 SS monte carlo with a 454, that was fun

Man I don't need a school for that, 45 minutes one way to work each day down one of the most dangerous 2 lane highways in northern Indiana. Reflexes tested every minute it seems some days, physically demanding, and mentally and emotionally tiring. Then on bad days throw in a couple handfuls of idiots late for work or in a hurry to get to the lake cottage for the weekend and the fun really begins! But to answer your question the SCCA has sponsered things like that locally in the past, and in Southern Michigan there is a driving school that has many different classes, defencive driving to professional levels on a closed track.

Need more info, is it the mechanical or electric pump that has died? If it is a factory add on electric there is a filter in the bottom of it that may be clogged. If it is the mechanical pump replace it with a stock replacement.

Sorry, no artist here, finding pics on the web I can do BuDavid, try a google web search for Dynomax, they are a muffler manufacture in the US and they may have better photos than the one I found showing how their mufflers are built. Another search you may want to try would be Turbo muffler.

The object of a muffler is to cool and slow the exhaust, both making it quieter. I've attached a pic I got off the web showing the internals of a typical turbo style muffler. Hope it helps.

240/260's are about the same car except for the bumpers. I can't say for absolute sure but early 240 bumpers probably could be made to fit, I think people are swapping them on 280's. Collapsing the bumper shocks is also an option. Major concern in any Z is rust, check the floor pans under the carpet and the frame rails. do a search on rust and there are bound to be pics showing what to watch for. Nothing wrong with a 260, just sort of a bastard child between the 240 and the 280 being built for only one year. Besides the bumpers and the larger engine I'm not sure that there is any other differances that matter between it and a 73 240.

Looking at the first pic that came up I would say no. That is the fresh air intake to the passengers compartment. Being that air moves through there regularly moisture build up should be miminual along with rust. Never seen a Z rust through there. If you have a long flexable wand you could reach back that far going through the intake where the plastic intake tubes attach and spray in your rust proofing materials.

Ah OK, I understand now Thanks for the link Chris!

So are you also installing an electric fan also?? or are you adding the electric pump to boost the mechanical??? I think an electric fan w/o the pump would have been the way to go, airflow through the radiator is what cools, increasing the fluid flow without increasing the cooling air will only allow less time for the fluid to be cooled in the radiator probably causing instead of cureing an overheating problem.

I don't think I would want to buy from this guy even if he had a BIN price of $50, I sure wouldn't want to meet him in person!!!

Vapor lock is when the fuel boils and vaporizes in the fuel line before reaching the carbs. Typical symptoms while driving is a running out of gas type of feeling often with surges as some liquid gets through. The most common problem with vapor lock is during a hot start, like you stop to get gas and when you start you can't as the under hood temps have gone up a lot and the fuel has boiled out of both the bowls and the fuel lines. The easiest fix is an electric fuel pump at the tank, this will push the cooler fuel to and through the fuel mechanical pump to the carbs.

I don't see that R&R of the tank is a big deal, I've had the one out of my 73 several times. Sure it's a PIA but no big deal, you want one that sucks do an 89 Olds 88, took me 4 hours just to get the tank down! The only must have is a floor jack or somebody to hold the tank during the take out/put in... if you are replacing the hoses anyway cut the old ones and drop the tank, route the new and trim and connect as you jack the tank into position. Unless the filler hose cracks or tears or is cracked I wouldn't replace it.

That would do it, but surely you have smelled it haven't you?? It had to be smoking!

Tabco only sells replacement "repair panels", so it's cut and weld type of stuff. They make great parts and at least for me in IN they ship free and their price is less than VB and the rest dealing direct. The only problem I've had recently is that they are way behind and it seems to me that they are filling big comercial orders before us little guys. I've had 2 rear quarter repair panels on order for about a month now for my son's truck and they aren't here yet, and from Dec '04 through Mar '05 I called every 2 weeks about the availablity of a dogleg for my 240 and kept getting the same old "they should be available in 2 weeks"... ended up ordering from VB and paying about $15-20 more just to get the project moving forward, BTW it was a Tabco marked part

My $.02 here after reading this debate... First off I think the question is poorly asked, which is better? That's like saying which is better, Ford or Chevy?... For what, how, and when?? High reving, torque, longevity, or simply the easiest to build the most power for the least bucks... This debate will go on forever unless you define the question to a specific point....

that baby has gotten hot, real hot, and I would say falls into the "not normal" for 7K miles IMO. You might want to think about having the flywheel checked and resurfaced for the new clutch.

Each caliper will require one rubber boot and one rubber sealing ring.

My guess would be that the input shaft of the replacement driveshaft was polished below spec when it was refurbished.

Clutch and brake peddle assembly, manual trans consol, shifter knob... Plus you will have to wire around the neutral safety switch, and will probably have to run a wire with the correct connector for the reverse light switch which is on the tranny.

That's what it's suppose to look like?? Whow I need a new one

I would check/replace the coil. It maybe opening up once it gets hot. Best thing to do is get it hot and failing and check and see if you have spark. Right now it looks like you don't know for sure what you are missing during a failure.

I did it to my 73, like Dudeboy said, weld and fill...

I don't think there is much of a trick, mostly getting things started square and going slow. Along with having something of the right diameter to seat the pin once you reach the side of the piston.

Short and sweet, if you can get $100 for the combo I'd smile and wave as they pulled away. Nobody wants a 73 240 motor, and for sure absolutely nobody wants an auto tranny..... but if you can get more than that more power to ya!