LanceM

After getting mine out from storage after twenty years and giving it it's first good washing in that time, the smell was unbelieveable. Found that mice had lived in it for years and there was probably 10 pounds of mouse crap just under the cowl. Took months to find all of the crap and nests, quite a discouraging mess and smell...

Being a unibody almost any through rust affects structural strength.

What pressure plate and throw out bearing carrier are you using? You must use a 240 carrier if you are using a 240 clutch and pressure plate.

Tomo, I think your graphic isn't correct, brake on the top, turn on the bottom from what Arne said. "The lower red section (amber in the rest of the world) should be a turn signal/hazard only. The upper/outer red bulb is brake and tail."

Tape the booth sides to the floor with duct tape and keep back a ways

A lot of people around here swear by them, my folks have run them since they came out. I've had cars with them and cars without. 35 years of driving in northern Indiana I've hit 2 deer and have had several close calls, one about 3 weeks ago, all of them were with cars without them.... Do they work, don't know, anymore I think the best defence is keeping your eyes moving and drive defensively, think of deer as nothing more than kids on bikes only without the bikes, can't count on them to do anything except the unexpected!

Just bought a 4.11 R180 and the gears were marked with a paint marker.

Because the wife can't drive a manual, keeps it my car

Stock stuff, PIA to get up if it isn't already loose.

If they can do it and you find out the cost per cylinder shipping may look cheap! Last I saw it was around $75 + per cylinder and that is if there is enough block left to put one in.

For the cost it's cheaper to get a different block.

I have a Lincoln Electric solar mask, no battery and no need to set it in the sun to "charge". The lens operates from the area light and the light produced from the welder, there are solar cells in the front of the lens that generate the power to operate it. I went with solar because it will always work, nothing like finding out in the middle of the night that the batteries are dead and you can't weld! My advice is buy the best helmet you can afford, you only have one set of eyes and a good helmet will last a lifetime.

Forgot to add a note on rings, seems like the last few builds I've done all most all ring sets come with a chrome moly top ring, easy to tell it from the rest, it looks like chrome compaired with the dull iron of the second ring. Most sets now seem to mark the top of the rings with a dot even if the ring is tapered.

For honing I've found this method to give the best results after trying about everything else over the years. I use a 3 stone hone, mostly because I rebuild a lot of engines that have small to large bore sizes. The "bunch of balls" hones are really glaze breakers and are sized to the bore. The trick to getting a good cross hatch pattern is getting the drill to go slow while you go fast (sort of) moving it in and out of the bore. I use a 1/2" drill, they are already geared to go slow, and I use a speed control I got from Harbor Freight for around $15. It's easiest if you set the block on the stand so that the cylinder bores are slightly above horizontal. Place the hone in the bore so that the stones just exit the bottom, say a half inch. Take a long piece of masking tape and make a flapper out of it around the hone shaft at the top of the block, this will give you an indicator that you have reached the bottom of the bore and will help keep you from pushing the hone in too deep and banging the stones on all the hard parts underneath When honing you need to keep the bores flooded with a lube of some kind to keep the stones from loading up. This is like skinning a cat, everyone has their favorite, mine is WD-40, cheap, sprays, and works well. To the honing, I run the drill motor at around 60-120 rpm at a guess, not very fast, you can almost see the stones if you watch one go around. My stroke is a 1,2,3,4 count with each number being the start of the down stroke of the hone, about one second per count. In and out fast, round and round slow. Take your time when you start and don't pull the hone out of the cylinder with the drill motor on otherwise the fun really starts happening fast!!! Always start and stop the drill motor with the hone in the cylinder, spray some lube in around every 20 strokes or so. Count your strokes and at every say 30-40 strokes stop and wipe the cylinder down till it is clean with paper towels and WD-40 and check your work. Once you have a good even cross hatch stop and move on to the next cylinder. The object is to give a good seating pattern for the rings, not remove metal, remember this is a hone not a boring tool! Held in one place too long or used too much a hone can make any taper in the cylinder worse. Give the drill and yourself a break every couple of cylinders, it get's hot and you get tired. When they are all done to your satisfaction it is time to clean clean clean. All of the grit from the stones and metal from the cylinder walls has been flowing into the bottom half of the block. You probably have a pretty nice mess on the floor about now too Hot soapy water works well with a good hosing down afterwards with some more WD-40 to keep things from rusting and you can call it a day! Oh, stone grit depends alot on the type of rings you are planning to install. My personal choice is the medimum grit, seems to work well for everything I have done and they cut quick. Course should only be used to try to save a bore with a scratch in it that probably should be bored, they can take and wreck things pretty fast. Fine seems to work best for me in unsleaved aluminum blocks (Briggs & Stratton). OK that's my $.02

Under your bed...

Same way. Use a high build polyester primer, spray and sand, spray and sand (Don't use laquer primer). Use a guide coat to show you when you have the panel flat and then go to your basecoat.

As Arne mentioned, be careful as painting may void the warranty or the rating of the helmet. Most of the people I know that are doing that kind of thing are using autoair colors (waterbase) then clearing the helmet with regular clear coat. Main thing to remember is that what makes a helmet work is the case fractures when it does it's job to spred the impact (my understanding at least, also one of the reasons they say a helmet should be replaced or checked if dropped), anything that hinders that process reduces the helmets impact factor.

I don't know the Unilites per say but I would hazzard a guess that both have mechanical advance, and one also has vacumm advance in addition to the mechanical. Vacumm advance is only used during no load condishions of the engine, coasting, idle, and will have no effect during WOT application. Vacumm advance typically will give you a smoother running engine and better MPG.

Funny you should post this. I've been watching ebay and what Z's are going for. Some that I think should do well don't and others that shouldn't do. The main differance between the cars in most cases is the "ads", lots of pics even of things that don't matter and a Hi-Po ad bring high prices, a few general pics and a poor ad bring low prices even if the car could be a real jem. Goes to show what people look for, pretty pics of what you see, not what is important, and high power selling ad telling you how great it is without telling you much about what is really there. I have friends that do a lot of shopping for old muscle cars and have looked at "featured" photo cars only to find that what you see in the pic isn't what you are really getting!

I'm not a 280 guy but I read somewhere the Einbach isn't making springs for the 280Z or maybe the 280ZX anymore. Not sure which or if both, or why.

I think they were just cadimum (sp?) plated like most bolts.

As the government man would say, "we're here to help."

All Z heads except one have no lifters, the rocker arm drives directly against the camshaft. The one head that has hydralic lifters is the P-90A and I believe would only be found in a 280ZX unless an earlier car was retrofitted with one. Valve adjustment is a normal maintance item on a Z engine and so the noise you are hearing can be considered normal and that the cars just need an overall tune up more than likely.

zhead240, I agree the brush looked pretty wide and that lowlifes abound everywhere. I'm hoping that what er34gtt2000jp meant was beware of out of country sales where verifying shipping can become hard or impossible, not to paint all Canadians as thieves. Things are much simpler if you stay inside the border, once you cross it the hassles increase 10 fold. My long experience on ebay and in business in general has shown that you either charge the customer for the signature receipt or pay for it yourself, insurance too if it is a high dollar item. I'd much rather spend $5-10 for proof of receipt or insurance than loose $500 or more as happened here. And seeing that this ebay member in question has around 94% good feedback I would have been cautious from the get go. That's what feedback is for, judging at a distance. My $.02...

To answer your question, getting a title is different from state to state. Check with your local DMV, they will tell you what needs to be done for a new or replacement title to be issued.