LanceM

I don't know what stock is but mine is now about 2.5 turns from lock to lock, it might be harder to turn but you don't have to turn so much to get to the same place...

I'll second Carl's comments, sort of like driving a gokart after they are installed

No bends, they should be straight.

Well yah sort of..... Your rear brakes have new calipers???? on a 72? Stock was drum in 72, and drum brakes don't work well in reverse so between them being on the powered axle and being in reverse I could believe that the fronts skidded and the rears didn't, of course how could you tell if the rears were working if they couldn't over power the engine??? But that aside... Here's my guess and first suggestion of something to try. The rear brakes are adjusted by using the E brake. Pull that sucker up hard 5-10 times and try again and see if the rears are working better... If the E brake dosen't work (broke/rusted cable) that is probably your problem, they are not adjusted correctly, they are not automaticly adjusted like on newer cars. Good luck and happy holidays!

I read about this MIG wire on another board and thought I'd try it as my abilities on sheet metal with .024 wire left something to be desired on my less than great days This wire is made by Perfect Circle and is called Twenty Gauge, that's it's name not the wire gage, it is a .030 wire, and a cored wire but you have to use it with gas (75/25 Argon CO2). It makes welding sheet metal down to .015 thick a dream compaired to anything else that I have used. It is priced about the same as any other flux cored wire, $10-12 for 2 Lbs roll. Unlike flux core wires this has no residue and needs no cleanup. The core is made up of ground up metal or something like that, all I know is that it works! Anyway for me it eliminated the burn through and that was my biggest problem. So if you have some body welding to do give it a try! I was lucky and the local welding supply had it, but you should be able to find it on line if not locally.

I'll buy them all and pay for shipping and extra for your trouble of boxing them up. There aren't any around here in the pic and pulls anymore, Z's that is so I'm willing to pay you for your trouble shipping them.

I painted my with Imron 20 years ago, still shiney and nice. A good buffing would probably make it look like new but it's time for a repaint this winter, after 20 years I'm ready for a different look!

propane torch works well and often will save what would otherwise be a twisted off fitting.

I used a Dynamat substute that I found much cheaper at McMaster-Carr (.com) part # 9790T19. I believe that it's noise damping figure is much higher than the brown bread insulation and getting it from McMaster carr made the price about the same.

Remove airhorns, install filter base using airhorns to hold base on carb, install filter and filter cover.

My ID is red4691 on ebay, sold a lot of balsa wood, parted some cars and antique tractors, but I've been taking a break this year selling on ebay, sort of got burned out, work all day then come home and pack things all night it seemed. Been mostly a buyer the last 6 months. As for the car I'd like more but would settle for $3500. Probably twice that in aftermarket parts and fresh engine. I need to get it out and get some pics taken, just not enough hours in a day, spending all my time right now swapping engines in my Jimmy so I can get back and forth to work!

I'm an ebay powerseller so that is part of my drive, I've owned the car since 79 so a little more time dosen't matter much. Ligonier is 35 miles northwest of Ft.Wayne, I would guess about 4 hours from you, you are there at tower hobbys home, one of my old hobbies

What ya think? 73 240, Calif car transported to Indiana 25 years ago, lots of mods, no rust, but needs some minor interior/exterior work to be back on the road.The car has been in storage for years and I got it out last year and started working at getting it back on the road but have lost interest, would rather have a Harley I guess Anyway looking at prices and buyers I'm wondering if I couldn't realize a higher return parting the car out than selling it together simply because most buyers are looking for either a V8 swap car and don't want to pay for tripple webbers or are looking for a car to restore and don't want to replace the aftermarket parts I've installed, in either case most of what I've put in to it would be thrown out. I'd like to see this car go to a good home but anymore I just want to get rid of it and get on with life. So what ya think, part it or sell it???

If Indiana isn't too far away I have a nice 73 I have to part with, give me a call at 260 894-3370 if you are interested.

Carl, you kill me sometimes

the fuel mix is compressed more allowing for more efficency from the fuel, once you hit 10:1 you are probably done as far as pump gas goes. Really the HP gain by just bumping compression is small, it again is part of a performance package. Cam overlap and duration plays a big part in how high you can go on pump gas too, again part of the package. Lance

If I remember right that is part of the emissions system for the charcole (sp?) filter, you should be able to just block it off and be ok. Lance

From my experiance it won't work. I read in several places that the ZX booster would fit if you mounted it upsidedown. Well let me tell you after taking out my working old one and trying the only way one would fit is edgewise!!! You'll have to do more than drill some holes, the clutch MC is in the way and other things at least on my 73! BTW, the ZX MC will bolt on to the earlier booster with no changes. Lance

The other thing to remember is that a Z is an over head cam engine so except for the late ZX models dosen't have "lifters". Engines with internal cams like an older V-8 had lifters (tappets) that rode on the cam and pushed pushrods to operate the rocker arms which opened the valves. I find it hard to belive that NASCAR is still runing flat tappet cams, but then I don't follow NASCAR....

try this http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/haulquery.pl This is my "other" hobby, antique tractors, there is a listing there of cross country haulers on this site, that are dead heading home or traveling through areas with half loads and will haul tractors, if they can haul a tractor they can load a Z. Worth a look at least. Lance

Looks more like a bad casting to me.

If you use a 78 clutch and pressure plate you will have to use the throw out bearing carrier from a 78. The 72 is too short. Either get a 78 carrier or put in a 72 clutch and pressure plate..... Lance

The question that needs to be answered is did you use the bearing carrier from the 4 speed trans or the 5 speed? If you used the 4 speed carrier, you have some other problem, if you used the 5 speed carrier you can pull the trans and swap it with the 4 speed and all should be fine with you 240 clutch and pressure plate.

The one thing I notice is that you are running lean at the top end starting around 4K, cam or carbs? I wonder what it would have been if you would have richened the carbs instead of leaning them a turn and left the timing the same??

Not to steal the thread but how does that work? My understanding is that speed bleeders are like one way valves alowing fluid to pass out if loosened but air not back in, teflon tape on the other hand, if it held together, would block the bleed hole, if it came apart like it usually does it would probably block the bleed hole and gum up the works???? Maybe I'm missing something here....