LanceM

did the ZX swap on my 240, The tach will work but you have to hook the wiring up correctly, don't remember how off hand but found a diagram on the web. It worked great until the 20 year old module died a couple of days ago, $124 for a new module, $106 for a rebuilt dizzy w/module, looks like I'll be getting a new dizzy!

3M 8115 panel bonding adhesive can be used for bumper cover repair.

If you are talking about gunk in the front container of the master cylinder w/no fluid, you have a problem! If this is true it is time for a major flush of the brake system front and rear and hope that this will fix it. In the master cylinder there are screens you can pull out which hopefully have trapped a majority of the gunk, pull them out and clean them in brake fluid before you begin flushing the system, no need driving more crap into the system. The best way to flush it is to get some clear 3/16" tubing and some empty cans, break the bleaders loose on all of the brakes and attach a piece of the tubing to the bleeder and stick the end into a can. Get a quart or two of brake fluid and start pumping the brake pedal slowly, keeping an eye on the fluid level of the master cylinder. Fill about every 5-6 pumps of the pedal or so, you'll see as you go how often you need to fill. Do this until the fluid in the hoses is clear, and you should be fixed. That is unless you have other problems, like a moisture buildup in the fluid that has rusted the pistons in the calipers and on and on...

Valve guide seals would be the likely culpret. During shifts engine vacumum is high, pulling oil past the seals into the combustion chamber.

Bad altenator, one of the diodes must have shorted. Did a swap with a one wire that I had from my 81 parts car, now everything is fine

Great, Moving those wires is like crunching popcorn, I can see 10 more problems poping up looking for this one! Just pulled all the fuses and no change, only if I pull the main fuseable link does it stop.... The worst part is that the car hasn't moved in 4 months and everything was fine till yesterday....

How the heck do you find this stuff so quick??? Ok that looks like the relay, after some cleaning the harness has one color of wires the relay has it's own harness with a different color code.... makes a lot of sence to me, not! OK so I don't need the relay, that stuff left 20 years ago when the webbers went on... So why is my VR clicking when I connect the battery???? Am I picking up a mystery ground through that circit??

I've had this Z since 79, 73 240, ran it 2 days ago all ok, tried to start it last night, dead battery. Got the battery charged up and go to install and when I hook up the cables both the voltage regulator and a relay, top relay next to the battery click. I don't remember that happening before and I wonder if that is what my problem is??? draining the battery dead? The altenator shows a charge with the engine running. I can't figure what the relay does, if I disconnect it nothing seems to stop working and I don't see it on my wireing diagram, it has 2 black, 2 green, and a yellow wire going to it. If I pull the plug out of the back of the altenator the relay and VR don't do the click thing when hooking up the battery. Bad VR? Bad Altenator??? HELP!

Right on that the colors are all the same for the different transmissions, the spedo drive gears change between all the manuals. The housings that hold the gear are different between the 4 and 5 speeds and I believe but am not sure between the series 1 and 2 4 speed.

The cheap stands will work fine if you don't want to invest much, like was mentioned they bounce a bit and take care when rolling around. But I've been using a Buffalo brand stand for almost 20 years, had everything from an L-28 to a pontiac 455 on it with no problems, got a SBC on it now, another work in progress, and no it's not going in my Z, I've got a 91 Jimmy that needs, how do you say, a little more power

If they are properly torqued grease or anti seize shouldn't matter at all. Been greasing mine for 20+ years, ever since I broke off 2 outta 5 changing a flat 20 years ago, never had one come loose.

Cheater

Don't feel bad Vicky, our cars are extensions of ourselves in ways, though this extension is a bit much much like the clothes we wear. I sure see a lot of things people wearing that I wouldn't get caught dead in For me I'd have to say the hood scoop has to go and the rear view doesn't do much for me, but the flares are well done, body work wise, and I've always liked Z's with solid headlight covers, I have them on mine, headlights are behind the grill, though I don't see how he gets any light or air through his grill.... My car is me, take me or leave me, mom always said " pick your friends, don't let them pick you"

Man I bet that took a lot of cranking on those hose clamps to get things compressed, sounds like a tired wrist to me I was wondering if I could drop the whole strut out of the tower but seeing what those Einbachs took to compress I'm glad I did it the way I did now. If I ever have to do it again it would really be a breeze The real sad part about the whole tale is that if that lower suspension pin would just pop out I could have walked the strut over to the neighbors and used their wall mounted comercial spring compressor and did it in 5 minutes like I did the fronts

To use spring compressors you have to pull the link pin out and I've heard enough horror stories about that pin to fill a book, so that was what I was trying to avoid. I have spring compressors but there isn't enough room in the tower to put more than one on, and after getting the Einbachs on I see that the ones I have wouldn't have worked anyway even if I pulled the strut, once those springs are compressed the top 4-6 coils are almost touching!

Spent an enjoyable weekend working on the Z, well sort of, enjoyable in that it was finally warm enough to pick up a wrench and not have it stick to your hand!!! I had read that you could change the rear springs with out pulling the lower pin by pulling the shock bolt and lowering the a-arm and by using the same method to compress the new spring during the install. Sounded easy and looking at it, a real good possibility that it would work. So after a long day of finishing my 4 wheel disk conversion (280ZX front and rears, another whole story) and maybe too many refreshment breaks inbetween I decided to have a go at a spring starting around 6 PM. Well I start by pulling off the caliper I just put on, that was easy the bolts were new stuck the floor jack under the a arm and pulled the shock bolt and slowly let her drop. $hit the sway bar is holding it up, nuts rusted can't get off, get the sawsall. Lower some more, $hit the sway bar is hitting the axle, mount bolts rusted, sawsall time. Lower more, the axle is at it's limit and the spring is just growing, must be 2 feet long!!! Work at getting the axle bolts loose, tough job they haven't been off since they were put on in '72! Finaly they are off, with out the sawsall!!! The arm is now down as far as it will go, damn spring is still up in the tower an inch, needless to say it is around 8:30 and I've about had it with this "easy" job, so in a fit of real pissed off I pretty much rip the spring down out of the tower and out... Yeah half way there!!! Luckly the Einbach springs are about an inch shorter so no fight getting them into the tower. Now how to align the shock so that it goes through the hole??? Well lets just say that 2 hours later, two tie down straps from out of my truck, and a developing skill of operating a floor jack with one foot while standing on blocks so that I could look down from inside I got it back together. Got into the house around 11 PM looking forward to the challange of doing it again Sunday. Sunday, out in the shop ready to go, big cup of coffee in my hand. Get everything out of the way and have at it, 45 minutes later I'm done!!!!! Why the hell is it always easier the second time??? Oh and if any of you are wondering about how hard it is to do, it's a breeze

My only question is what are those catfish looking wiskers on the airdam???? Lance

No big deal dropping the tank. I just dropped mine "again" for the same problems you are having, only mine sat for 15 years with gas that turned to varnish. To drop the tank take the clamp off of the fuel inlet hose and remove the hoses going to the fuel pump and return line along with the vent line that is almost straight above them. Remove the 2 nuts holding the straps at the front of the tank and the tank will drop down. With it in this position you can get to the other vent lines and remove them and remove the tank completely. It is easiest if the car is up on jack stands and the right rear tire is removed. After you do it a couple of times it only takes 5 minutes BTW, empty the tank before you start, it is enough of a job without 50# of gas inside spilling out through the "holes". Lance

Ha, I remember people driving VW Bugs into lakes and they would float, never thought about a 55 Buick Too bad he didn't make it, probably had a classic ready to sell once it was converted back to "land" use Lance

OK, I'm waiting, what are all the rubber plugs for in the floor of a '73 240 for??? Besides starting rust??? Lance

Pull the hose off of the front of the airflow meter and spray starting fluid in while some one cranks it, if it starts and runs on starter fluid you have fuel problems. If it has been sitting a couple of years the gas in the tank is crap. Dump it and blow the lines clear of the old stuff, put in new along with some injector cleaner and get it running.

Earlier in this post someone mentioned that this was an older group, well being part of some "older" group myself all I can say is that money spent that doesn't give me better handling, HP, or gas mileage everyday, all the time, is wasted money. Chrome don't make you go! Well at least that's what we used to say that back in the ol'days..... Oh yeah, them wings look like stupid kid stuff Had to get something about wings in this post somehow

All I can say for sure is that they are not a bolt in. I parted a ZX that I drove for a while and liked the seats for all of their adjustments and pulled them for my 240. I just did some quick measuring and all I can say is that they won't bolt right in, never got any further than that.

Pipewrench, big pipewrench.....