LanceM

You can put 81 fronts on using a 84 zx disk turned down 1/4" in diameter. You have to drill out the threads on the strut and the calipers mount on the oppisit side using washers to center the caliper over the disk. Rears require 82 calipers and disks and either a custom made bracket, or a maxima unit. I am doing both to my 240 currently and the only hard part is deciding wether to spend the money for new rear maxima brackets $100 US or make some up myself from 1/2" steel. I have a cad drawing of the rear bracket if you are interested.

You got it! Good decriptions of uses there.

Steve Steve, Blasting not blasted, but I agree with your statement

My experiance with sand on aluminum is that it gives it a frosted look, from what I've seen from items that I had glass beaded they just look clean not frosted. I for sure wouldn't use sand say on the combustion chambers of a head. The more I think about it I wouldn't use sand on aluminum unless I was going to paint it and really wanted something for the paint to grab on to.

From my limited experiance: Sand - available in different grades, vary abrasive, siclica(?) sand is dangerous to use can cause lung problems, the others are probably not much better for you. Wear proper respertory protection. Sand can be reused but the sharp edges brake off making it less effective. Must be very dry or will clog, probably the cheapest media to use. Glass Bead - is more reuseable than sand as more sharp edges are formed with use but it becomes finer with each use (breaks up), less abrasive, often used for cleaning parts, less for rust removal, dangerous see above. Aluminium Oxide - no experiance but I would belive it to be as agressive as sand and more reuseable but also more expencive. Walnut shell - More of a polishing/cleaning media, non agressive, must be sifted before use for uniform size to prevent clogging. Typically used on non ferric metals.

To all, You really should run all electrial items so that they go through the ampmeter, this is your indicator for your charging system and really the indicator for your whole system. If you add enough items before the ampmeter it may be showing no charge, but your battery may be needing more than is available to charge, just that the output of the alternator is being used up before it gets there. By running everything through the meter you know that you are not exceeding the limits of the alternator, which is really what it is there for, if you are driving and have the stereo blasting, lights on and flip on the driving lights and the amp gauge drops below center you are now sucking power from the battery, you have exceeded the power available from the alternator and you need to turn something off or get a bigger alternator, otherwise enough of this type of driving will leave you with a flat battery.

Daniel, I reread your post and need to claify a point you made. AHHHHHHH I never did a quote before!!! anyway you said and I quote "In the electrical code you are allowed and is common what is called a "reduced neutral".If I run say 3 #10's (30a each) I can use one #10 as a return.Thats why if your house has a 200amp meter you have two 2/0 hots and one 1/0 return or neutral as it is called." The reduced neutral in this case carries no current in normal operation and is there for safety reasons only. Before sometime in the 70's or earlier there was no reduced neutral. This third wire is typically attached to the metal chassie of a device, say a washer so that if a hot wire were to come loose and touch the metal chassie the chassie would not go to 110V it would instead blow the breaker. In AC all of the load is carried between the hi and low lines, the black and white wires, nothing through the green, you could remove the green and it would still work, such as a simple electric light which only has 2 prongs on the plug. I agree that theory and reality stray at times but in my 30 years working in the electronics industry I find that they tend to follow each other pretty closely. Daddy what do you do at work? Been designing and building things that kill people for almost 30 years, what a thing to have to tell your kids Luckily I'm in the radio group now, the joke there is how many can you kill with a radio? One if you hit him with it, hundreds if you call in an airstrike.....

Daniel, Ok, I checked My wiring diagram shows 12V + being switched for the brake lites, and I took a test light and checked, 12V at the switch all the time, press the brake pedal and 12V on the other side of the switch. I was pretty sure before I checked as the trailer brake controller I put in my truck needs 12V from the brake switch to turn on. I could see switching the low side if you use a common buss for power, but in either case the same amount of wire, really more if you switch the low side, is going to be used. It would make the most sence (less wire) to switch the high side using the chassie as ground where ever it is available, which is pretty much everywhere. Oh well don't really matter, too many years working aircraft wiring I guess.

Not meaning to diverge from the "classic" part of this forum but once you start pushing in that direction I would think more about a V8 swap. This is coming from "if I knew then what I know now" type of situation. Building a L series motor that high gets expencive quick, you could drop in a stock V8 for the same money or less and easily have 250+HP with room to grow. Remember once you start pushing those kind of numbers out of a 6 streetability starts going away, the power is in the top end. Light to light you just start getting into the powerband unless you are going to run a real low rearend. I'm probably pushing $3K+ in my engine with parts and all and could have had 400+HP for the same money if I would have put in a SBC V8.... if I only knew then what I know now....

Well Daniel I'd have to disagree on several points and I will explain, not bashing just my opinion. 1. The approved method of power switching is always switch the hot or + side. Otherwise there is always power at the socket, with higher voltages this could be dangerous because with the switch off you would believe the socket to be dead or unhooked, when if you switch the low or - side the socket would be hot looking for a ground, which you could supply with your body. Often times too auto lights in particular often use the chassie as ground so it would be difficault if not impossible to switch the low side. It is also best to switch the hot side as close as possible to the power source, this way as much of the circut as is possible is unpowered when it is switched off. 2. Where the relay is in the circut + or - will not extend the life of the contacts, ohm's law states I=I/R, this is the same in any point of a circut, so whether you switch before or after a load the contacts will see the same amount of current surge at closure. The best way to extend relay life in a high current (anything over say 2-3 amps) is to buy a relay with contacts over rated by 2-300 %, once you get to around 10 amps the best way to go is with a continuous duty solinoid, much like what is used on a starter. They can handle several hundred amps of surge current and pass 40 - 60 amps all day everyday for almost forever and are rather inexpencive usually around $10. 3. Brake lights switch to ground.... I think you will find that the brake pedal switch switches 12V, all of the rear tail lamps use a common black wire ground. One thing that I really agree with is fuseing the positive side. Always fuse as close as possible to the power source and remember the fuse is there to protect the wiring, not the device. Don't over fuse, 10A fuse on 18 gauge wire will make for a smoked wire, so for heavy current devices run the heaviest wire you can for the device you are going to run and fuse the circut to protect the wire if the device should fail.

Jeff, Yes, they are really the same engine (L series) the difference between all of them for the most part is bore and stroke.

It will work but you will have to use carbs, the E-88 head dosen't have injector ports.

Wait, that much gas is a big problem. Check the float levels of the carb. sounds like they are stuck open, no way you would get that much fuel in an engine just from cranking. The engine is so flooded there is no way it will start.

Wow, after seeing that pic I can understand the desire to own one

OK, Sounds really cool, would be a great ride.... Now reality check time... This is an old guy talking, advice is free so take it for what it's worth... Get the job first. $40K, 5 years of payments and full coverage at your age what will be your monthly payment be until it's paid for? Do you really want to live at home for the next 5 years? Do your parents really want you to live at home for the next 5 years? What if you or they decide that you should move out on your own, can you afford the car and life's expences before the 5 years is up? Don't mean to sound like your old man or an A$$ but all I want you to do is look ahead a little bit, don't get strapped with a 2000 pound monkey on your back eating at you every month. Nothing worse than hateing a car you bought to love, spoils the fun of driving it when everytime you see it all you think of is a payment book..... Been there done that.....

Here's the link, this is like a book on Datsun L series cams and engine top end componets. It's 18 chapters long and you will have to look through it to find the part about internal/external oiled cams, the whole thing is a good read. http://www.datsport.com/Racer_Brown_Menu.html

Can't use both oiling methods, only one or the other. I will look up the link when I get home tonight and post it, it's good reading.

Depends on the year of 240. I just swapped an 81 5 speed into my 73, clutch arms are the same. Bearing carriers are different. If you are using a 240 clutch pressure plate switch the carrier from the 240 4 speed to the 5 speed, if you are going to install the pressure plate from a 280 then you need to keep the carrier from the 5 speed. The carrier from the 240 is shorter as the pressure plate is taller if you don't swap them you won't be able to engage the clutch. The 5 speed shifter also has a crappy spring loaded bushing in it, I swapped the shifter from the 4 to the 5 speed. Other than those items it was a bolt in with no tunnel cutting.

hf240z, It depends if you are using the old style 240 cam or the newer cam. The new cam has oil hole drilled in all of the lobes, easy to spot, the old style cam did not and needed the spray bar for lubercation. If you switched the P-90 head with the cam that came in the p-90 you should be OK. As a side note I read somewhere and probably have it in my archives somewhere that the spray bar is the better method of lubercation. The internally oiled cams tend to burn something like lobes 1 and 8? and there is a method of blocking the cam and using the spraybar.

I guess I should send a note to #1 thanking her for being such a PIA Got rid of her (well maybe she got rid of me, don't matter it was a good thing any way you look at it) and got a Z, still have the Z and a #2 that has stuck through thick and thin, and me for almost 20 years with two fine boys, both with their eye on the Z! NOT! The funniest thing I heard from my oldest (15) is "how come it's always OLD (meaning me!) guys that you see driving the really cool cars?" I told him it's because they can finally afford them! House paid for, kids off fending for themselves, man I can't wait for that to happen! Trouble is that I'm going to be real real old by that time! Now if I could just come up with a few more bucks to get that new carpet!

On the starter solinoid you should have: the wire going to the starter on the inner heavy terminal, on the outer heavy terminal should be the battery + and the white wire which contains the fuseable link and provides power to the car, on the spade terminal inbetween the two should be 2 wires connected (at least on my 240 that's the way it is) both black with white stripe, which may look yellow from age. Alt: White w/red stripe to A terminal, black to E terminal, plug in to plug in (only goes one way) and the cap (the barrel item) it's body connects to E, wire to A. So it sounds like you have a few extra wires on the starter but otherwise have it right? but since you have no power to the car I would check the white wire, if it is open nothing is going to happen anywhere in the car.

Acording to my drawing the green/white wire comes from the ignition switch to the tach, black/white goes from the tach to the coil. If you are still using the black/white for power to your ignition you won't be getting it without either a tach in place or with the green/white and black/white wires attached to each other where the tach would be normally hooked up.

Yes you need the tach in to run acording to the drawing I have. If you want to run without the tach short the two tach wires together otherwise there is no 12V to the coil. I just put a ZX dizzy in my 240 and all I had to do to make the 240 tach work was short across the ballest resistor.

Are they new or used?

Want to sell just the Maxima brackets?