LanceM

No reason you can't put a T at the manifold in front of the booster line and attach your gage there, won't hurt anything. I have a T there on mine with the pcv valve connected there.

Can you still buy Halon extinguishers? We have them at work, no residue. Just found this, looks like you can buy them in the US, but they are expensive. http://www.safetyproinc.com/catalog1_c29261.html

I'd hate to think of what might be living in it!

Climb out the rear hatch... and tape it off last. OR I use 2" tape around the inside with 1" overlap. Have your paper cut close to size and start at the top sticking it to the exposed tape. Two sets of hands make this easier. From the top go around the door trimming and sticking, you don't have to do more than touch the paper to the tape. Really the easiest way is to have the quarter windows and the windshield removed and work though the openings to get to the back side to push on the tape. When closing up the windshield opening and the quarter windows I tape from the outside since all of that will be covered with glass and rubber and a little of the old color won't matter, at least not to me.

It's be 35 years or so since I was in an economics class, but doesn't that run contrary to the principle behind price and demand?

You change just the gear, the carriers are different. The gears work in all year cars and are changed by pushing out the small roll pin in the carrier.

Good point Arne, see this is bringing out more points for me to think about! Thanks!!

Ha! I'd just hate to think of painting it red and finding that the market wouldn't bear what I'd want to have to part with it and end up having to drive a red car

So far the winner is Blue, which I wouldn't think would be the one. Red I figured would be #1, but sure isn't my favorite, and yellow (my choice) is far behind... You guys have helped in thinking about wheels and chrome (I have already powdercoated most of it satin black) and overall look. I'm still interested in hearing what everyone thinks but I'm still leaning towards Viper Yellow w/black stripes, blacked out chrome, and mag wheel centers (period ET wire wheel mags) powdercoated yellow to match. Keep it coming, cause I'm still thinking the "resale red" thing BTW, the original color was '73 918? orange, then repainted to 73 corvette yellow by me back around 1980, so you can see I like yellow from a long time ago and always thought Z's looked great that way But with all that's been done to it I'd like it to be attractive to the new owner... but with out knowing who that is it's all guess work anyway....

For many reasons I'm thinking of selling my Z when it's finished. Paint is about all I have to do before reassembly starts. The car is not stock so keeping the original color is not important and the car is prepped for a complete color change and has a black interior. So what do you think would make the best "Buy Me" color? I've put just the basic colors in as there are so many variations of each.

Just kidding

A lot of work for valve seals... So all you need to do is paint the hood and air dam to match and it will be a nice looking car...

Graphite is good stuff, but not in motor oil. They tried but the big problem is keeping it suspended, it tends to settle in the pan and it also loads up the filter. I just read somewhere that they have finally figured out how to keep it suspended, but.... I would say don't.

yes........

Get it at like NAPA or other store that sells automotive paint, it is used when preping a car before painting.

I would strip the whole wheel, the clear that is on it is probably not in too good of shape anyway. Powder coat would be best for toughness but paint would work. I would strip them, polish all of the shiny stuff, paint the black then clear coat them.

I think either orange/black or orange/white would look good.

Since a 280 hood swap to a 240 is common I don't see that there would be a mounting issue.

Ha, I used to drive an old dodge long ago that the charging system was shot in, drove it 80 miles a day for a month charging it at night till I got a new beater. Just don't run anything that uses electrity that isn't necessary and you can go pretty far!

OEM fenders are still available from the dealer. Fit with aftermarket fenders is usually poor, I had problems with mine and would recommend getting ones from the dealer.

Assuming that the linkage is set correctly... Start car, place flow meter over a stack on the rear carb, adjust the center inlet so that the ball is at one of the marks in the tube, move to the other carbs and see where the ball is using the first setting as a referance. Depending upon the linkage setup you have make minor adjustments so that all carbs flow at the same mark. That's the basics. Run on is usually because of rich settings or an idle speed that is too high. Here are some good links on webbers, jetting and adjustments. http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/rasorcom.htm http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=93343

I would say it is because your PCV valve is not working or is not hooked up, the breather on the valve cover is an air intake, the pipe coming out of the block below and in front of the carbs should have a hose going to the pcv valve and is the output.

A close way to measure the lift is to measure the base circle of the cam, the bottom part where it is round, the measure the height, subtract the 2 and multiply by 1.5. Of course you need to use a dial caliper or mic but that will get you in the ball park, after that look at other cams with the same lift and the duration will probably be close since most cams for a particular engine follow a pattern of lift/duration.

Looks great, how wide are the stripes and what are their spacing on the car?

Bought my 73 in 79 so that's what 27 years.... where did the time go, worst part is that it's been in storage most of that time... By golly this year it's coming out!!!