LanceM

Sorry for the double post, back button got me! Since the old one doesn't fit right either now I would think that there must have been a spacer or washers there before that have become "lost" in moving things around. I have mine apart right now and you can see a match in the contact areas between the caliper and the strut mounting area (no rust). Are the contact areas on the strut the same size as the flats on the caliper? or are they larger or smaller? This might give you an idea if washers were used before. My mounting bolts only have a lock washer on them, do yours by chance have both a lock and a flat? Maybe when you took it apart you "dropped" a flat and thinking it came off the bolt put it on where you would expect it to be, backing the lock washer when in reality it is a spacer! Just a guess. Lance

If you do go the washer route be sure to use hardened washers, regular steel washers will crush over time in an application like that allowing the caliper to come loose.

If you do go the washer route be sure to use hardened washers, regular steel washers will crush over time in an application like that allowing the caliper to come loose.

I hadn't thought about all of the rubber hoses, add that to the list. Fuel tank I'll take to a local place to have it cleaned and sealed, went through that rust crap with my antique tractor and I'm not about to be cleaning 3 carbs every time I hit a bump! I figured on rebuilding/replacing all of the break componets that are probably rusted inside, calipers, slaves. I just hope the gunk hasn't plugged the lines as I don't want to have to go and replace all of them. Rust isn't a problem as after I got it the only snow it saw was through a window and during the teardown all of the pannels came off and were rust proofed, underside heavly undercoated, gained some weight but it is still as solid as when I bought it, even back then rust was killing Z's and it wasn't going to happen to mine! It's a '73 240Z, mfg date of 11/72, I bought it in 79 before I got out of the service and brought it home with me, only had 50K on it when I bought it, has 116k actual miles on it now. Ha I'm driving a 91 jimmy with 185K on it right now! The engine rebuild has about 16K on it. When I rebuilt it I had the head ported, tripple webbers, header, turbo exhaust, and long track cam installed, along with an aluminum flywheel. Suspension got heavy sway bars, Koni shocks, short stearing arms, hard bushings everywhere and all the other trick stuff. Always called it my street legal go-kart cause that's the way it drives! Well thanks guys, if you think of anything else let me know I'm all ears. Lance

Here's the story, bought this car in '80 in Calif one owner, brought it to Indiana and did a complete rebuild on engine and drivetrain, suspension, a friend had it for a year painting it. I got married.... kids came, couldn't afford a new interior and parked it for the winter (a 14 year winter) in the garage. I can afford the interior now but... it's been sitting for 14 years or so... Breaks are rusty, and don't work, clutch doesn't work, fluid evaproated and left some great gunk behind. Gas tank smells like hell's kitchen, the carbs are stuck (tripple webbers), luckly the motor turns and isn't stuck, the oil is clean. Springs are pretty flat, at least I would expect more than 1" of movement. I'm thinking of starting by changing the springs and working the breaks/clutch hydralics, I have new springs, I figure no need having a running engine if I can't stop it. From there go to the fuel system and rebuild the carbs and get things rolling, then go to the interior. I guess I'm looking for any input as to a better order of things to do or maybe something I should look at that isn't on my list because the car has set for so long. Thanks in advance, Lance