LanceM

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No, no threads but there is a groove there that the bolt slides through. So that when it is installed and tightened it both clamps the parts together and is a rod in a slot preventing them from pulling apart.

Weld thru primer has a high zinc content so that it is conductive, all exposed weld thru primer should be removed after the weld before priming with your normal primer. If you buy it get the brush on kind, spray cans seem to clog easy and if they set for a while won't spray at all, at least in my experiance. IMHO if you can get to both sides of the weld, just weld it and be sure to prep and finish both sides. If not anything is probably better than nothing... And to answer your question, never used the Eastwood stuff so I can't say, I'd shoot them an email and ask, they've always have been real responcive to my inquires.

I think when I did mine I used a pickle fork and pried with it. Soak it good with PB Blaster overnight and try then. It's a tight fit to begin with and add time and moisture and it becomes a rust weld. You must remove the bolt to get it off so you are headed in the right direction, now it's just a matter of muscle over matter. A propane torch heating things up can help break the rust weld.

I've bought a lot of parts from rockauto, for a lot of different cars and they usually have the best prices and it's all been good stuff.

rockauto.com lists them for the 280Z, $224 plus $30 core. I have a good rack from a 73, though I'm not sure I want to part with it if they are that hard to get.

Try using some starter fluid, if it fires you have a fuel problem, no fire an ignition problem. Once you know if it is fuel or spark you can narrow your search for the cause.

Not great in what way?? Sitting for 20 years it could have a stuck ring or two, and it wouldn't suprise me that a valve or 2 was sticking.... You might be suprised what it might be like if you could get it running for a while and check it again.

I'm with Enigma, Carry the color to all parts and make the stripes one color. BTW you are about a month ahead of me doing the exact same thing. I'm going with Viper yellow and black stripes...

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Unless I'm mistaken you will need a mustache bar from a 280z not a ZX.

I got a ZX dizzy from NAPA for $75 complete with module (and I think cap and rotor) ready to drop in and play. At that price why bother pulling one from a JY??

Some things to check: Is there abnormal tire wear? Is it felt in the steering wheel when it happens? Did it start after the sway bars were installed? Does it only do it with the added weight of a passenger? Since you have added new sway bars I would check the sway bar and see if there is any indication that the tie rod is hitting it on that side first. Then I would get real serious about finding the problem, something like this isn't a minor problem. Things I would check even though you should have other symptoms would be tie rod ends, ball joints, torsion rod bushings/frame mounting area for rust/cracks for a start. The problem may be on the left side causing an excessive weight swing to the right. Good luck, ones like this are usually hard to find because they don't show up in a static sitting in the driveway mode, only while moving.

The head gasket is installed dry so it should for the most part pop off, carbon wouldn't be unusual on the piston tops and in the chambers of the cylinder heads. Can't say about the springs for sure but the problem is usually that they are short when old and need replaced, the only way to tell if they are performance is to check the compression strength of the spring compaired to stock.

The 81 I parted had flanges, as far as I know the only one that was different was the ZXT of some year/s that had snap in CV joint axles on the R200, other than that all R200's should be the same I believe and have flanges like the 240-280 did on the R180.

Sorry Tomo, I took it that you were swapping bodies with say a parts car, not a new glass shell. Don't know about the Tidycar stuff, but it is probably more for the current basecoat/clear coat type of finishes. Best way to find out is take it to them and see if they think their product will get you what you want.

Fenders may be original paint, the rest not or the other way around. If the whole body is getting swapped who cares about the fenders?? And if you are swapping the body and keeping the fenders how did you ever manage to find one that matched the fenders color??? In any case you are pretty much hosed, being a single stage paint if it is original, there isn't really enough there to color sand and buff, along with that old paint like that dosen't color sand and buff well, you could try but be ready to repaint when you are done because you will likely burn through the paint and that will be the only thing left to do. I'd say anything you do will likely only make it worse in time, the paint has done it's job and is worn out, removing the worn out part really leaves you nothing left, the paint will be so thin that you will start to have moisture bleed through and cause the metal underneath to begin to rust under the primer, then you'll have a real problem.

Compression values depend upon the pistons used, the cc of the head, thickness of the head gasket, overbore, etc... 130 across all cylinders sounds good to me, differances between cylinders is what shows a problem. If your oil only smelled of gas and wasn't say a quart over full because of it I wouldn't worry about it with the short time you have been running it. Sure it wasn't a good thing but I don't see that it is worth the trouble for a tear down unless the oil filter is filled with metal filings. Pull the valve cover and look at the cam, you would probably see the greatest wear there first due to the pressures involved if you had really thin oil. With all of the injectors leaking you were running rich, and while it was shut off they leaked down and would have washed the cylinders down, but again how bad?? I'd say rings before bearings and at worst you have probably taken 10K miles off of the life of the engine, which with a rebuild is probably good for 200K anyway. Fix the injectors and drive it, if it's bad you'll know soon enough and it won't cost much more to fix it then if it is broke than to tear it down now and replace everything that still might be good. Just my $.02..

I'll second that motion, if the used pump has been dry for awhile the seals probably won't last long. For sure a job you only want to do once go with new.

I bought a manual changer from HF when they were on sale for $39, works great. I can change a tire in about 10 minutes. I got it for much the same reason you are asking. I wanted to clean the mags one at a time then put them back on the car to keep it rolling, then later powdercoat them. Figured I'd have $80 in having someone taking off and putting on old tires. Since then I bought a balancer and have changed the tires on my Silverado, ordered the tires on the internet w/shipping and saved $5 a tire and didn't have to pay mount or balance, figure I saved more there.

Here's the link http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/filler-over-epoxy-epoxy-over-filler-here-some-good-info-74668.html?highlight=epoxy+primer

It was decided on hotrodders.com that the test is flawed. I will see if I can find the original thread there and link it.

Be prepaired for the major rust you are going to find underneath that dogleg, you'll probably find that the rocker panel is gone too.

One thing for certain is to back off all of the valve adjustments so the springs are not compressed. Before pulling the engine I would probably change the oil and run it up to temp to make sure it has been all through the engine. After it's out I would pull the plugs and oil up the upper cylinders then replace the plugs. Don't know that there is much else you can do besides keeping it in a dry place and maybe bagging it to keep it clean.

The problem there is the rust you don't see for sure. That is bondo cracking and I'd bet that everywhere under it is rusted. The only way to stop it is to remove the filler and grind down to clean metal and start over.