LanceM

All indications point to the booster being bad.

I think you will have a hard time finding one as the housing will be larger so the bolt holes will be further apart. So, crazy idea time, just went out and measured my 91 GMC Jimmy's MC, the bolt holes are the same distance as are the side bolts on my 73 booster that the adapter plate bolts to. I wonder if you were to remove the adapter plate if the Chevy MC would work??? Maybe just needing adjusting/modifying of the booster pushrod?? I'd do some measuring on the Z and then head down to the pick and pull with some wrenches and take something apart there and compair the measurments. You're running Chevy brakes, why not a Chevy MC??

Don't know about 260, 280 boosters but I can tell you for sure that a ZX booster will not fit an earlier Z.

I'm with Arne, need a bigger MC...

I would use teflon sealer on the plugs, I would keep away from teflon tape in that area as I wouldn't want any pieces of tape getting loose and blocking injectors.

That sounds like water pipe, 6.5# for 2.5' !!! The bend marks and shrinkage is because they used a regular bender not a mandrel bender. The Mandrel bender is the key to getting pipe bent without the creases and stuff. The tough part is finding a shop that has one, most just use the usual crush and bend machines. I've been looking at the mandrel bends available through JCW, Jegs, Summit, and the others and cutting and welding my own up using their pieces. They even have some 4" listed in a couple of places and stainless in 2.5". Since I'm thinking of cold air induction for tripple webbers it is going to be a DIY project most of the way anyway...

Thanks Tim for your service in keeping us free, wishes and prayers for your speedy recovery. Enjoy the Z, welcome to the club.

Though I can see your point of replacing them, wheel bearings if properly cared for can last hundreds of thousands of miles. Replacing them does eliminate the question of whether or not they are still good, but it is sort of like throwing the baby out with the bath water if they are still good and serviceable, considering that you will have them out again in 20-30K miles if you plan on a regular service schedule of repacking them, or the next time you do brakes which will probably be in 50K or so replacing them everytime will get expensive.

Dan, Thanks for the part #'s I'll check with the dealer next week when I'm in town! Gotta get that CD now that I'm down to the little odd parts!

Here's a few more...

You're lucky I've got mine all apart. It is unmolested so what you see is what came from the factory. If you need better or something in particular let me know.

Clean the bearings in a solvent and wipe dry, get all of the old grease out of them. Clean the inner hub of old grease in the race area (the part the bearing seats against). Look for excessive play in the rollers in the cage, any blueing caused by heat, pitting, rust, if it isn't shiny almost chrome looking replace them. Look at the race it should look pretty much like a mirror, very smooth and shiny. If anything dosen't look right replace with new, bearings/races come as a set, replace both when you replace one. Might as well get new seals for the rear of the hub now too, they are only a couple of bucks each. To pack a bearing place a gob of grease on the heal of your left hand, holding the bearing with the small end up in your right cut into the grease and push the base of the bearing against your hand forcing the grease into the bearing, when it is coming out of the top that section is "packed" and you can rotate the bearing and continue until the whole bearing is packed (just to make it clear you want the grease packing in and around the rollers not coming up the big hole in the center ). You'll know you are doing it right if the heal of your hand starts getting sore about the end of the second bearing Needless to say now your hands and the bearing are covered with grease, don't drop it or you will find out how dirty the floor is and will get to start over!!! If you have to replace a race, use a long punch and a hammer and drive them out. To install the new ones the best tool is a race punch, but since we never have what we need I have had good sucess using a clean old bearing and a block of wood to drive them in till seated. Hope this helps.

Gary that would be great. I'm currently being outbid on ebay and don't need them today so I was thinking it was about time to break down and get the cd and go that route myself. If you come up with a part # from where ever I would be interested! I was looking through an Auto Body Toolmart catalog and they have a Toyota grommet part # 9847 that looks like the same thing, 50 for $6.99... lot better than ebays 10 for $10.... Thanks!

Thanks all, as usual you guys are right on top of things, no better place than this group!!!

Humor like yours goes better with places like zcar.com, along with your "first hand" advice... Don't go away mad, just go away.... Just some humor, right

Thanks Mike, I'm on that!

Here is some pics, maybe they will help. First is a shot of the door the holes along the outer edge are where the inserts are installed, I left one in the others are out in this shot, second shot is a closeup of one of the inserts I was able to remove without destroying it too bad...

No not the rivets... When you pull the interior panel off of the door there is a rubber/plastic plug (for lack of a better term) that is installed in the door steel that the metal clip attached to the interior panel fits into when the panel is installed. Got to get my camera back from the wife!!! This is for certain a case where a picture would be worth a thousand words

I need some new plastic retainers that insert into holes in the doors that the metal clips attached to the interior door panel fit into. Are these parts available? I looked in the VB catalog but didn't see any listed. Anyone have a good part # or source for these? I need some of the metal clips also but I think I can aquire these at the junk yard, the plastic inserts won't come out without breaking or tearing apart in my experiance.

I put the rotor in a vice and using a very large punch and hammer drive the hub out from the rotor, moving around the hub every couple of wacks. I've done three sets this way with no damage to the hubs.

Garth, I apologize, you are right....

Sorry jackboxxx, no fight... Arguing with fools only brings you down to their level. It is most apparent that my "lack of effort" is responsible for the rude "educational" response of another. I am sorry for my oversight and in the future I will work harder to be sure to "educate" new members so that others will not have to.

Valves too tight on 1 & 2, bad injectors??? Pull and check plugs, if they look good switch with 3 & 4 and see if the problem follows the plugs or stays with the cylinders. If it stays with the cylinders I'd say injectors/wiring or valves on those two, follows the plugs bad plugs get new ones...

OK, I think you have made your point, guy has 20 posts, give him a break, give me a break... If he ever posts again I'm sure after this he won't start more than one thread...

My google search showed me an internal I was going on that. If you can get an external it should be fine, just remember 3-5 PSI for carbs max, not sure about EFI but it's a lot more pressure and will flood carbs.