LanceM

You shouldn't notice any difference, ethanol has been added to gas here in the states for a long time as far as I can remember.

Enrique, It's strange to me cause at heart I'm a 4WD truck guy, replace many rockers on things with frames Not to mention way back when, before unibody became a word What I thought would be tough would be the rocker under the dogleg of the rear quarter, I'd hate to cut all of those welds and pull the quarter up to get to it if the quarter was good. Both the rocker and dogleg on mine had gone under and so cutting to get to it were necessary, but to do it to something that was still good would have been a tough choice for me... And I should add that lucky for me I was able to do all of the patching of the rocker under the dogleg, leaving me only one weld line to make nice and unseen.

10 years is a long time, may be stuck rings, stuck valves, may be worn out.... I'd get it running and check the compression hot, or get it running for a while then do a leak down check which is much better at telling you what is wrong. It just may be that the valves are rusty and not sealing well, a short run will clean them up and maybe improve things.

ZX driveshaft won't work, use box end wrenches. There is a point in the rotation of the shaft that will give you the most room to use the wrenches, I wouldn't even think that sockets would work. PB Blaster is 100 times better than WD-40 for penetration on old stuff IMO.

Number 40 is correct, if you are lucky you will only need the front end of the piece, changing the whole rocker would be rather challenging I would think. The rocker on a Z goes under both the front fender and the rear dogleg and is exposed under the door. A strange piece if you are used to working on older American cars. As a side note, I usually buy direct from Tabco, and have been waiting 2 months for some parts for my son's truck. I called them today and their phone has been disconnected??? So I called Mill Supply and they had them in stock and they should be here tomorrow! $10 more each but at least I'm getting them

As Enrique said that is the front of the rocker under the fender. I had the same problem only in the rear and bought a panel from Tabco, part # 16740. I have the front half of the rocker replacement panel left which has the fender mounting nuts in it but I'm afraid that it is for the right side I'd say just cut the bolt heads off with a grinder and go from there, if the rocker is bad you'll be cutting the rest out anyway soon enough. I would go with a new replacement as it is likely that any donor car will have simular problems.

No you are right jmortensen, and I think I still might have mine laying around somewhere. If anyone is interested in it PM me and I'll go looking for it.

Interesting, for sure a lot of power for little $.

What will you fill the hole in the fender with if you sell it and use a window antenna???

Looks like you found the info you needed, I couldn't help more since all I have is 240 stuff and I'm sure the wiring is different. Thing to remember is that these antennas don't have limit switches (at least my 240 didn't) so you must turn them off when you reach full up/full down. Use a single pole double throw center off switch. I worked mine this way for a while until I replaced it with a rubber antenna, got tired of jerks breaking it off when I would forget to put it down.

the answers to both of your questions is yes

My rule at HF is never buy unless it's on sale, cause it always comes up for sale sometime Good or bad I'll let everyone know what I think. What really caught me by suprise is that the store actually had one, seems most times I go for an item on sale it's out of stock by time I get there, hit 100 percent today which is really unusual, I usually go in with 10 items on a list and walk out with 5!

HF has their powder coat gun on sale for $59.95, bought one today. Anyone use one of this brand before? I figure the $40 I saved will buy plenty of powder to practice with. Overall the construction of the gun and acessories look very serviceable. Going to order some powder from Eastwood tonight and hopefully by time it gets here my neighbor will have hooked me up with a free working electric oven. I'll keep everyone posted on the results. Right now I'm only planning on doing some small parts, things that will fit in a household oven, if the gun works well I plan on building a bigger oven so that larger items can be done.

No, the gutters are only to stop rain running from the roof into an open window.

Front to back, 1-6

Though I've owned my Z almost 20 years I really only have been working on bringing it out of storage for the last 2 or so. Did all of the usual things an old Z needs. Welded in body panels,stripped the floor and interior, new brakes, springs, and a 5 speed. All toward looking to make a good driver, maybe local town car show thing, no restore, for sure no concourse car. But it seems the closer I get to the finish the more that "just isn't right" and so more to do. Now I'm thinking of pulling the engine to do a good job painting the engine compartment.... But does it ever stop??? Anyone ever stop?? Say the heck with it I just won't open the hood, the paint inside will match it will just be old and dirty looking?? I mean the engine is just a start, everything else will have to come out, at the rate I'm going it will be another year before it is stripped, painted and reassembled.... Or is it a case that the longer I work on this the deeper the Zbug bites?? AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHH, enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My 73 never had one that I'm aware of, never had any problems, 280's must be different.

There is more to it that just cutting them off. They are the seam beteween the roof and the inner door frame. To do it right you will have to cut them back a piece at a time and weld the seam shut, then grind the weld flush. Not an easy task but one that has been done before. Considering the chance of mishap and mistake I would leave them alone unless you really know what you are doing....

Looks like it was inproperly adjsuted at one time too tight. Can't tell from the pic how bad it really is, may be fine for a long time, may be well on it's way to becoming round. If it is a stock cam, why not replace it with the one on your current head bringing the rockers with it?

You may be right, my knowlage comes from wepon suppression and often times the reference to an auto muffler is used. Probably a case of more than one way to skin a cat. Cooling and slowing exhaust will quiet it whether it be from a rifle chamber or an engine cylinder, though with the room available on a car simpler methods can probably be used as you have explained.

Probably had to make "something" in wood shop, his most hated class, and actually did make "something", what none of us is sure of

My guess would be master, bad slave would leak (blowby) from the pressure from the master. Much like brakes, soft or no pedal is a master. Pump the crap out of it and look for low fluid/leaks, if there are none go for a master cylinder.

50, and only feel it when I have to get up from under a car to go get the right tool, again!

My first was a 64 Olds F-85 2 door, good car ended up getting rear ended by a bus one day cutting school. The second one was better, a loaded 70 SS monte carlo with a 454, that was fun

Man I don't need a school for that, 45 minutes one way to work each day down one of the most dangerous 2 lane highways in northern Indiana. Reflexes tested every minute it seems some days, physically demanding, and mentally and emotionally tiring. Then on bad days throw in a couple handfuls of idiots late for work or in a hurry to get to the lake cottage for the weekend and the fun really begins! But to answer your question the SCCA has sponsered things like that locally in the past, and in Southern Michigan there is a driving school that has many different classes, defencive driving to professional levels on a closed track.