LanceM

Probably a bad gasket, cracked blocks/heads on these engines are not a common occurance.

Hobbies should have no other reason than enjoyment. My hobby, or at least one of them, is working on my Z. I enjoy it, it is easy to work on, and when working on it I get a feeling of pride and fulfilment on a job well done. I own a Z because I choose too, I'm restoring my Z because I choose too. What other people think really doesn’t matter in the great scheme of life for the most part, there is nothing worse than surrendering your choices to the opinions of others. Why restore a Z? Because I choose too.... nuf said, no further explanation required.

With carbs you don't want much more than 5 PSI, fuel injection uses higher pressures, like in the 40-50 PSI range. Too much pressure will over power the needle valve and flood the bowls in a carb.

Since your's is a 72 you probably don't have an electric fuel pump, that was the dealer/factory fix in 73 for that problem, an electric pump was added back by the tank to help the mechanical pump push the fuel through and "help" eleminate vapor lock.

Take it easy there Tex and reread my post..... At least the first word of it.....

Good, 40-50 pounds of tire hitting the back of your head at 60 MPH could make for a real bad day

Tomo, you just have the spare laying in the back?? Ever think what that would turn into during a sudden stop (crash) at 60 MPH???

BTW, moisture??? here in IN??? it is drier than a cardboard fart around here, we are like 4" short on rain since June, the only thing green around here is my truck and it is turning brown with all of the dust. On the plus side I haven't had to mow the grass in about a month and if things keep up I may never have to again

Agreed, but I was figuring you would have the bearing packed, I figure the condensation wouldn't be any worse than it is going to see in it's lifetime with normal tempature fluctuations, just grease it up good and you'll be good to go!

The best thing I have found is to leave it half taken apart in a locked garage, I've had it that way for about 20 years and nobody has stolen it yet Other than that Enrique has the bases covered, no matter what you do if they want it bad enough they will get it. First thing though is I think you need to deside who you are trying to keep from stealing it, pros who want to strip it, or joyriders. Pros you might as well forget, it's going on a truck and is gone, joyriders on the other hand are looking for a ride and a thrill, making things a PIA is a good deturent, a fuel cut off preferably electric is a good choice, it allows the car to start and for them to drive away, about a block before it quits at a light or the middle of the street. Being the hold up for traffic in a stolen car typically causes joy riders to bail and go looking for another ride. Another thing is to make the car less apealing to the bad guys, unless it is hidden a mega sound system is just an invite. Remember good doors and glass for these cars is getting harder to find all of the time, slap in a $50 stereo and leave the doors unlocked, nothing worth stealing then anyway.... Then there is the nerve gas thing, I'm liking that idea

Yes, it will fit, will hang lower, below the front support, and you may have to redrill two of the mounting holes.

Mark, For heat you could use one of those halagen (sp?) work lights if you have one, up close and focused on the hub would bring it's temp up quite a bit but still short of burning off the paint. I recommend putting the bearing in a plastic bag during the freezing part, this will let you transport it without body heat warming it and keep frost off of the part too. I have used this method many times working on antique tractors and it works great, I've had some that seemed that they were going to be a pound to destruction become a fall in place with the freezing or heating method depending upon where it is going, and for sure a cold bearing is much easier to handle than a hot one!!!

The very reason I always get rivited linings instead of bonded ones, I've had the bonded ones come off like that and what a mess they can make.

Put bearing in the freezer for an hour or so, when ready grab the bearing and run and install it in the car. Freezing it will reduce it's diameter a thous or so and allow it to install easier. Better yet if you could heat the housing some to help increase it's diameter.

I used their single stage paint in the past to paint several cars but have never used any of their 2 stage paints. I have heard to keep away from their low cost line, Crossfire? I believe, that it's quality isn't as good as other brands in the same price range.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8701&highlight=hinge+pin

dkd021 is right on, no matter where you get replacement fenders there will be minor imperfections, a good block sanding will make them show and a quick coat of glaze and another good workover with the block sander will make them disappear! be sure to use a good long and flat sander.

The two big errors I found in my aftermarket fender was that the front edge was poorly rolled at the point on the top of the fender where the headlight bucket mounts and the latch? for the access door stuck out about 3/4" longer, so much so that there would not be enough adjustment on the latch to make the door close correctly. From what I can see in the pic the front edge looks nicely rolled, so I would bet that you did get OEM.

Booster won't work with a manual transmission, clutch master is in the way, radiator will fit but like mentioned above will hang lower.

Your's sound like an easy fix, aftermarket are not worth the money but then I have also heard that the OEM fenders are now from an aftermarket vendor and are of the same low quality. If all you have are dents and no rust I would fix the originals, you will spend more time straightening "new" ones than you would fixing yours, and they already fit!

How about a pic from the outside?

Since the meter is reading series resistance to ground you could just put in an adjustable resistor in line and adjust it so the meter reads where you want it. Then measure the value that you have set and replace it with a fixed value. If it is a case of too much resistance causing the high reading put the resistor in parallel with the sending unit (from the sending wire to ground) and adjust it the same way.

You'll like it. I have the Hobart 140 which is made by Miller, same specs, works great, and like hls30 says get the gas kit and go gas, the weld is much cleaner!

Tire plugger and plugs, and a can of fix a flat. No spare...

Bad condenser will cause the points to burn quickly, also having the key in the ON position without the engine running is hard on the points. Going to the Pertronix should solve your problems.