LanceM

It has been my recent experiance that the "new" condencer you are buying is really an old one, sitting on the shelf for maybe years. Time in itself is an enemy to them. With most cars having switched to pointless ignition many years ago there just isn't a serious turn around of shelf stock and so the part you are buying today may be 10 or more years old. I went through 3 in 2 days last year, one bad out of the box, before I tossed the dizzy and went pointless. You may want to try a different source, maybe someone has something newer on the shelf.

Hit 78 yesterday, 68 today, 62 tomorrow, I think it's comming back!

No one finger Lance, can you see it or should I "turn it up?"

I can't help with getting the window down/motor out, but something I've found in all of the window motors I've had to work on is that they have small circut breakers in them, really just a bimetal strip that opens when the motor is stalled such as in the full up or full down position, to keep from burning the motor up. These tend to get tired after thousands of cycles and just stay open, hence no power to the motor. Being cheap, I've found that you can take it apart and solder these breakers closed alowing years of service, just pay attention when opening/closeing the window and get your finger off the button when it reaches the end travel point. I fixed the drivers window in my Jimmy this way 5 years ago and it still runs fine and gets used daily.

Sensor safe RTV works well, be sure it is sensor safe as most that are not put out corrousive fumes during the cure.

The fittings are probably more the limiting factor than what the body of the filter is made of. All of the glass ones that I've seen are the type with hose barb ends, which typically means low pressure application, all of my vehicals with EFI use the metal canister type with inverted flare fittings for the higher pressure. If your Z uses the type with screw in fittings, much like a brake line, then no you probably can't use a glass type unless it has matching fittings. The old fashion type that fits inline using hose and clamps would probably leak or blow off if it clogged, not enough friction between the clamp,hose, and metal fuel line.

You're right on the UV, I should have been more clear, often you see them and they are dull from dust abrasion and what not, these you can buff out to look like new.

Son time to see if things are worn you will have to pull the pin that drives the clutch MC then I think that you can get the pedal out, been a while since I fit myself down in there, it is also a lot easier with the seat out of the car.

You should be able to find Brasso at any hardware store, it is a brass cleaner. I believe they also make an aluminum cleaner also though I'm not sure of it's name. In anycase remember that the lense is plastic, any abrasive will score it even if it's just a little bit and will remove the shine. At that point a buffer and some good final polishing compound like is used to finish paint will make them look like new. That also works well on cars that have plastic headlights that have gotten dull and sort of cloudy looking.

I'm right behind you, 50 and counting BTW, teflon tape is out for hydralics or much of anything besides water anymore because of possiblilty of tape plugging systems, teflon paste is the "in" thing now and in some ways I like it much better. It is messy compaired to tape but I always hated when you got a roll of tape that decided it wanted to be strings instead of tape!

Sometimes being old has it's advantages

I'm afraid that it got put in the "I'll look at this later" catagory as body work and paint are in process.

I believe that if you look you will see that it is an inverted flare fitting, not a tapered pipe thread, no washers or sealant should be used, just tighten. Thread length is not important as long as it is "long enough."

The best thing to use to get overspray off is a clay bar. Don't know who makes it but NAPA auto parts disributes one under part number 7260 in the MS line. It is a kit with a lubricant. The bars are 7261 (fine)and 7262 for med. This will take off the overspray without damage to the lense.

I don't have an answer for you but mine too came with cloth center sections that were a black/white/orange weave that matched the car color (orange). Very comfortable in the summer, but now need replaceing. It must have been a dealer add on, for as you say the stitching and installation was factory in appearance. Any idea what dealer sold your car? If I remember right mine was from a dealer in Apple Valley, CA.

Ha, depending upon the poster here I'm not surprised at all any more

Please don't tempt me... you are only 2 hours away!!!

Curious minds want to know, how did you get the old pads out without taking off the caliper??? I second the large C clamp method.

Since the Z is a unibody glue won't work in any stress areas, which is most of a Z. In your example, fiberglass body steel (tube?) frame the fiberglass imparts almost no strength to the system, it would run just fine with just the frame. A lot of newer cars are using 3M epoxys for panels but are still welding in stressed areas. It has it's place just not in the Z world I'm afraid.... except for patching a fender or doorskins!

Serious is a relative term here, without hardend valve seats a valve job will last a little more than half of what it would have with hardened seats, so if you don't plan on keeping the car forever or don't mind doing a valve job every 30-40 thousand miles with "normal driving" it's not that big of a deal.

Ok just to clarify this, so say when you replace a MC you also replace that OLD worn-out booster?? I mean one would follow the other from what you are saying right? What about rear wheel cylinders, they are as old as the MC more than likely, so we should change them too? No wonder I only do "reactive" repairs, I couldn't afford to replace everything related to a failed componet just because I was there... In any case you gotta stop, you're killing me

No you were right the first time, I wasn't thinking about the short shifter requiring the brackets, forgot about them. So that is why the aftermarket short shifter wouldn' work, it is all clear now!!

I put the shifter from my 73 into an 81 ZX tranny no problem so I don't see why the short shifter from an early Z wouldn't work in a ZX tranny...

Stop, Stop, you're killing me!!

The MC's are all the same, the boosters are different, though I would think a 73 would work on earlier models, it is just larger but not as large as the zx models.