LanceM

Maybe I'm confused, but didn't you just sell a $800 seat for $500 and complain about having no job/money and now you are polishing new wheels???

I never would have thought the dealer would have a fender, live and learn!!

I thought I'd pass this on for those looking for a fender in the future. I found in my working towards a repaint that some work I had done to a fender (left front) 20 years ago was coming undone and with further investigation I found was not done well to begin with. Since I live in Indiana spare parts for a 73 have to come from far away as there are no "Datsuns" in the junkyards around here, sometimes if you get someone young enough behind the counter they may have never heard of a Datsun, I digress... Anyway I decided I wanted to replace the fender, VB and the rest were killing me with the price and shipping... I happend to be looking at some paint at a local place and asked if they could get one... sure enough they had 2 at the warehouse!!!! The next day I was the proud owner of a $189 made in Tawian fender for a Z Just like you get from VB or the other place who's name escapes me... Looked pretty darn good there on the showroom floor, and only took two days of bending, hammering and cussing to get the damn thing to fit!!! Luckly I was planning to weld on the headlight buckets as I was going to put in solid headlight covers and blend the buckets and fenders into all one piece (I have the molds if anyone wants a set of solid fiberglass headlight covers) because the seam at the front wasn't rolled right all the way around and sure wouldn't have looked right in a stock configuration. Oh and the mounting plate for the headlight bucket was welded in wrong, not a big deal, just had to drill out all of the welds, get it right and weld it back in... Let's see what else, oh yeah, the rear inner fender fell out during the hammering bending stage, seems the rear crimp was pretty loose even though it has deformed the rear edge prettymuch the whole way down the fender.... and now the best part..... While blending in the bucket to the fender I find that well, the fender is pretty wavey, no real wavey, wait made in TAWIAN!!!! another 2 evenings icing it up and blocking it down. Should look pretty nice once I'm done, just hope the icing dosen't crack down the road because of the way the damn thing oilcans, oh did I mention that they must have used old steel beer cans to make this out of!!!!! Just in case you missed it, this thing is all in all a POS! If you ever need a fender for your Z, beg, borrow, steal, kill for an OEM fender, it would have been so much easier if I had....

First of all I can't figure what you guys are doing that you are having to remove these panels all the time, but anyway, get a catalog from Auto Body Toolmart, www.autobodytoolmart.com They have a couple of pages of fasteners, some that are as cheap as $7.95 for 100 that look like they would work if you don't care if they exactly match original equipment, which does seem to be the point of this thread... cheap and works....

Looking at my pump (240 3 bolt) it is wet with oil on the back side but not dripping. Considering it's position on the head I would think that it would only get splash oil in it, if you have a large quanity of oil leaking then I would consider that you have another problem such as you mentioned of something not letting the splash oil drain back and slowly filling the case to the leak point. Another point is that in the early 70's what was considered a "closed" system was not quite defined the same as today I don't believe... JMO

A fuel pump is one of those "so simple" items that you would think anyone could make it and make it well, but the problem is if it isn't right and it pumps your crankcase full of gas, well gas and oil mix well, gas and bearings don't.... I'd spend the $ for an OEM, just cause.....

I'm with Ed, probably the fuel pump that is leaking, and maybe the gasket too. A bad fuel pump can pump a lot of gas into the oil too!!!

I never realized that they were different until this thread. I have some and here are the measurements (in inches) Dia .750 Lenght of shaft including washer .650 washer thickness .120 washer dia 1.180 OAL 1.625 this btw is for the acorn style. For reference one that I have from another after market wheel is: dia .685 ! length .590 washer .125 washer dia 1.090 OAL 1.6 So you can see there is quite a difference and using a "standard" aftermarket one could sure cause some problems!

I agree with Zs, you have some valves too tight.

That type of ebrake has been around for quite a while, I think BMW was one of the first to use it, you can find it on S-10 Blazers now. From what I've seen though this type of brake has some issues. The main one is that if it isn't used often the drum rusts up and then you have problems when you do use it or when you try to remove the rotor.

Too bad the message bounced, I would have emailed him that I closed my account with paypal but if he would send me his address I would mail him a Postal MO. If he would have sent the address I would have forwarded to the local police or the FBI for fun

Go to NAPA and get a gallon of Mac's 6401 carburetor cleaner. Wonderfully nasty stuff that probably isn't avaliable in CA Anyway shake it up, pour it in, let it set a while, pour it back in the can and crud is gone! I filter mine back into the can and have been using it to do about everything including removing paint from fittings. Great stuff, but follow the cautions!

Forgot that one!!! I saw them but never owned one, sure wouldn't want one now !!!

You'd be suprised, if it is as old as the car it is more than just gunked up if it has been used alot. The drive bands all need to be replaced, the drive wheel if you can find one is needed, the head is probably shot (tapes are abrasive) along with just normal wear and tear on any old dried out nylon parts in the rest of it... It isn't stock so it's a mute point now, if you want the "retro" look well OK, nobody that grew up with 8-tracks, then saw how great cassets were would keep either one for the convience of CD... But then I'm old enough to have had all three and would know.....

They were built to be disposable, time to "dispose" I have a high dollar Sony that I put in my Z 20 years ago with an amp and speakers that I'm taking out and will part with, probably dosen't have 25 hours of use on it,(AM/FM Cassette) I'm switching to CD. It's an XR-70 if the model # means anything anymore....

Prices look right but I still shutter at $3500 for body and paint... I would ask for references and follow up from that direction to make sure that the people that have used them before got things in the "two months" and that the job was done right...

Probably the better light would be the one with the advance. The idea here is that instead of setting the timing at idle, what is called static timing, you set it at say 2-3K RPM, this has your full mechanical advance in, typically with full advance timing is set around 34 degrees BTDC. This way you know that you are getting full advance at rpm and don't care about the static setting. The problem of doing this with a regular lite is that your marker on the dampner is 34 degrees away from the timing marks on the cover so some messing around needs to be done to figure it out. With an advance light you dial in 34 degrees into the light and it fires 34 degrees ahead of time and so you set your timing mark to the zero mark on the cover. To answer your second question, the best thing to do is get the advance light and set the timing to 34 degrees and forget about the static timing. If you set for 34 and you get some pinging back it off untill it goes away under hard accelration and make note of that setting for future reference.

Since I usually just go get what I need for the Z or anything else, Christmas can be a tough time for gift givers at my house... anyway my MIL asked my wife what to get me... I gave here a list of air tools that I always wanted but just never needed quite bad enough to go buy and told her any one of them would be great, well Christmas day comes and so does my whole list!!! The Snap-on man probably was grinning as much as I was, next year I'm giving her the whole catalog with things circled in it!!! Happy New Year all, may it be a year that brings us all closer to each other and to peace in the world!

Hell Chris I thought you were an old guy.... sure don't look like it in the pic Regards

This is a board that I frequent with my other "hobby", There may be someone there that can help, looks like sometimes these guys are looking for a load home... http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/haulquery.pl

I'll tell you first to use the "S" word, search This is the ultimate first question, to give you more of an answer, RUST, if you have a lift, floor pans both sides, frame rails, doglegs and rockers usually mean deeper darker problems. Mechanials are for the most part like any other car.