LanceM

In your first post you said that you bled them in this order, RR LR RF LF MASTER, Bleed the master first then go in your order of the brake ends. It may be that you are introducing air into the lines when you do the master last. Just a guess, if it worked before it should work now...

I’ve decided to sell my Z, just don’t have the time, money, or the go to get it to the finish. I’m the second owner of this car, which I purchased in ’79. Calif. transplant, never driven in snow stored winters and for about the last 18 years it has been stored indoors off of the road. I got it out last fall and began getting it ready for the road again. This car is no where near stock, I built it to drive, just a warning to the purist I am located in Ligonier, IN about 3 hours from both Chicago and Indy. This winter I cleaned and POR’ed and undercoated the floor, no rust through, frame rails are good. I found rust in the dogleg and rocker on the drivers side, I have replacement panels but they are not installed. The car was stripped and painted 18 years ago so in general is in good shape but has two storage dings from over the years. I have had the fenders off, original and no rust. ’73 L24, Triple Webbers, Cannon intake, cam, headers, 2 ½” welded exhaust w/new muffler, aluminum flywheel, 10# I think, engine redone about 20,000 miles ago, 118K miles on car, 235/14 Goodyear tires on spoked alumumin rims (tires are about 30%), new Einbach springs, 4 wheel disk conversion (just done this winter), new clutch MC and slave, 5 speed tranny, 1” front, ¾” rear sway bars, short steering arms, new 81 distributor and alternator, plugs and plug wires, gas tank cleaned and sealed. There's more but I've forgotten what... What it doesn’t have is carpet, though I have put in new sound proofing material, the seats need recovered/replaced, no bumpers or front valance (had an airdam on it but it was cracked and not yet replaced). The car has solid headlight covers installed with the headlights moved behind the grill. It also has the typical cracked dash, all electric’s work, all gauges work, has a digital clock installed in place of the original. I also have the original 4 speed that will go with it (good shape just wanted to try a 5 speed), and a good, pretty much complete F54 engine as a spare, I was thinking of building a stroker…. Along with a box or two of assorted parts and manuals. Asking $4500 OBO, will get some pics up as soon as it stops raining! PM me if you have any specific questions or want some special pics. Thanks for looking

I was using the maxima brackets that the part # was listed earlier in the thread, so I don't know if they were for an early or late maxima. The 81ZX rear calipers have smaller pads, and have an odd hanger that I think would make them hard to use in a conversion, they are very large overall, even though they are a smaller caliper. The 81's also had a problem with the e brake freezing up at the caliper. If you look at an 81 you will see that the caliper is something you would probably rather not use. The fitment problem I remember using the 81 rotors is that the offset was so large that it actually went over the bracket mounting area of the bearing housing. I didn't pull my 83 calipers so I don't know how they mounted on the originial car but on the 81 the mounting bracket is offset towards the inside of the car moving the caliper inboard, the maxima brackets I used offset to the outside moving the caliper more into the wheel.

I've done the same thing and the same thing pretty much happens. Since I haven't driven the car much I just figured that I had a wiring problem in my adaption harness, perhaps not! It's pretty low on my "get looked at list" so it is still doing it's thing. Oh well, no answer for you but at least you know that you are not alone

I've had webbers for a long time, and like them. I've never had any of the so called adjustment problems that plague others, perhaps it's because I set them and forget them. I think the problems most people have with them is that they tinker with them too much, anyway if I had to do it over again I would still go with Webbers.

, well I'm just barley under 50 Yep I just finished up the conversion on my 240 this winter. 83 ZXT calipers and 83 ZX rotors on the rear, 81 280ZX front calipers with 84 300ZX vented front rotors turned down .2" in diameter. I used the valve and MC from an 81ZX, I never tried the 240 valve, I had an 81 parts car that donated a lot of the items.

Frank13, Rear calipers and rotors from an 81 zx Will Not Work! The caliper is an oddball and the rotors have the wrong offset and will not bolt on, they hit the bracket. 82-83 will work, turbo calipers prefered as they have a slightly larger piston. With a Maxima bracket the 82-83 rotors and calipers are a direct bolt on and the ebrake cable will easily attach simply by rerouting it.

epc, Just want to clairify, rear calipers and rotors from an 81 will not work, 82-83 will. don't want anyone grabbing the wrong thing at the pick and pull

Not that any of us have ever wondered, but at least now we know what a ricer ZX looks like.....

I'm not a FI guy but I would suspect the fuel pressure regulator.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the only real difference between 73 and 74 Z's was the engine and the bumpers, and perhaps some cosmetic differences.

I put a 81ZX 5 speed in my 73 no problem.

The forks should be the same if your 240 is a 73, earlier series I use the series I fork to match the clutch slave cylinder. The bearing carrier: if using a 240 clutch and pressure plate use the 240 carrier, if using a 280 clutch and pressure plate use the 280 carrier. The clutch and pressure plate are the determining factor, not which transmission.

I would check the accuracy of the gauge, maybe the sending unit is going bad and you are seeing much higher temps than are really there! I'd install a cheep mechanical gauge and drive around the block a few times and see what it says.

I think that unless you are racing the rear disk from a ZX will be an improvement over drums. To mount them you need brackets from a Maxima, the part number I believe is 44155-04S10, I just got two from the dealer, $52 each. If you do the swap also take the proporing valve from the ZX, the front disks can work on the earlier cars also giving you vented front disks that will fit under 14" wheels. The set up I have on my 240 is 81 zx fronts with 300zx rotors turned down about 1/4" in diameter, 82 turbo rear calipers with 82 disks and maxima brackets. Works well and I am very happy with the conversion, also put in the larger MC from the ZX.

It probably wouldn't be hard to take plates from a ZX and use them. Lance

if you don't care that it matches the manual you can just switch the plug wires 180 degrees.

Run a quick compression test on a cylinder, sounds like the cam timing is way off. If you have very low or no compression you can figure the valves are either never closing (bad adjustment) or open at all the wrong times. Lance

If your painter is not familure with 2 stage paints then you better get him what he knows or you may spend a lot of money and he'll be frustrated! 2 stage paints go on differently and look differently during the painting process than single stage paints. If all he's ever shot is single stage, then he's going to think he's doing something wrong with 2 stage as it looks terriable until the clear coat goes on! And putting on the clear goes on differently than you would shoot a single stage clear.

You got mail...

Stick the forks between the upper part of the rubber boot and the steering arm, and pound on the end of it with a BFH, should come apart in 3-4 good wacks.

Go to HF and buy a set of deep well impact sockets, 1/2" drive, pick the one that is the closest to a fit and drive it on with a BFH, take the lug loose, once it is loose use the BFH to knock the socket loose from the nut before you get it all the way off, other wise you won't be able to get the other wheels. 3 pound drilling hammer is my favorite, easy to swing in tight places, you can get them at HF too... Hey anybody want to buy some wheels just kidding...

Though any should work I would go with a 72 MC and slave. Both of the ones in my 81 parts car look close enough to the same to work in my 73. I don't remember when but sometime I think there was a return spring and the clutch fork was different, maybe 72?, and that may require a different slave cylinder or a fork change to run a later one.

All through the 280ZX will drop right in. There is no replacement for Cubic Inch Displacement

Fuel pump?