LanceM

OK I'll try that, I did a gravity bleed for the most part when I put it in with a few pumps.

Since the clutch MC dosen't have a bleeder any suggestions as to make sure it is bled?? just loosen the fitting and pump away???

Use a hairdryer to dry it off. If you are going to glue it back in use something like superglue, if you use RTV be sure to get something that is compatable with electronics, regular RTV offgasses something that is very corrosisve and will make a mess of the electronics!

Ok, 73 240Z, new clutch MC and slave, was able to bleed them fine, the problem is I have the adjustment out to the last thread and the clutch is still at the floor! Still not blead? Everything works fine just I don't like the clutch engaging a 1/4" off of the floor! Looking for suggestions!

Ha, use a milk filter if you really want to see what is in it! They are a much finer filter, figure on using several to filter a quart of dirty material...

Go to NAPA and buy a couple of gallons of Mac's 6401 carb cleaner, stuff will eat paint off and anything else! Wear rubber gloves and safety goggles!! Get a pan deep enough and put your parts in, cover with the cleaner and let soak for a couple of hours or so, rinse and they are clean. I filter it back into the can using milk filters (available at your local tractor supply) and a funnel, stuff will last for ever. Remember though it is nasty stuff, peels skin!!

It shouldn't take long to do, couple of hours at the most, probably more like an hour. There are only 2 tie rod ends on a Z. www.rockauto.com has them for $22 each, I've bought a lot of parts from them and they ship quick.

Yep, that's a 280zx dizzy, so 81 would work for sure as that is what I got mine out of .

If it has a module on the side of the distributor it probably came from an 80-81 280zx, no module on the distributor but it is electronic (no points) then it is from a 78-79 I think???

With the engine TDC on #1 compression stroke the timing mark on the dampner should align with the 0 mark on the timing tab, if it dosen't the something is wrong with the dampner or it is not the right one... If it does align correctly then with your timing light connected to the #1 plug you should be able to see the mark on the dampner at low idle.

Your question would probably be best answered at http://hybridz.org/nuke/ They deal in engine conversions in Z's.

yes that is correct

I would jack up the rear end and support it. Then in netural make sure that the rear tires can be easily spun in the forward direction, it may be just that your rear brakes need adjusting.

If you empty the MC you will have to bleed your brakes! So I would say no just replace the booster.

I'm with Pancho, These "better, more horsepower" plugs have been around for 40 or more years in one form or another. Gains if there are any are so small as to not be noticeable, for their cost it is money better spent on something else.

With webbers there isn't anywhere to connect the vacumum advance. Forget it and dial in more static advance at idle. two ways of doing it, set timing for full advance at around 2500 rpm, shoot for around 34 degrees, or at idle set it higher say 18 then take it for a drive, if you have pinging under load retard it a few degrees until it stops, if no pinging advance it till you get some then retard it untill it stops, then you know that you have dialed in the maximum advance that the engine can handle. If you find that the engine is hard to start hot after setting it this way retard the timing a few degrees and that should take care of it.

I got $6 for a stripped 280zx FI intake manifold. Strip off all of the steel that you can and take it to a scrap yard, cast aluminum is going for $.42 a pound around here.

Click here to find a caculator that will caculate where different degree marks are on your dampener. http://www.thedirtforum.com/toolbox.htm After you find true 0 degrees that is!

Do I get any extra points for having 3 phase??? I sort of went wiring crazy 20 years ago when I wired my 30 x 36 shop, 200A service w/it's own meter, outlets every 6 feet in conduit all the way around on the wall, hanging drops every 10 foot from the ceiling, 220V in a couple of places in case I have to move the welder, and 3 phase for a couple of machines I have. Glad wire was cheap back then as I'd hate to do it all now.

Must have come from a small town like I ship from, no postage meter, just stamps. I've seen the lady put on a lot of stamps to ship some of my stuff, but nothing like that

I would say that the clean areas are from oil wash. I wonder though how worn the rings really are. From the pic the little bit you can see of the second cylinder looks highly glazed. How do the cylinder walls look? if you wipe them dry of oil do they look highly polished like a steel mirror or say look like they have clear coating on them? On a well broken in and used engine the cylinder walls should have a dull used look to them. If the walls are glazed the rings are not sealing hardly at all. If this happened during breakin the rings may have never seated and because of the small amount of friction may be worn little if at all. This can happen during breakin and even after if the engine is used for short trips that never allow it to come up to full temp, with light loads. Once the cylinders glaze the engine turns into an oil pump since the rings can no longer do their job. The first time I saw this was on a 41 Farmall A tractor. When I bought it from this old guy he had said that the engine had been rebuilt 20 years ago and used around the yard by his neighbor, he bought it from the estate and used it to pull grandkids around in a wagon. I get it home and running and it is one smoking SOB. I pull the engine down and find that the cylinders are glazed to mirror perfection. The big suprise was that the cylinders were 0nly .002 over spec and the ring end gap was on the minumum side of the spec. I honed the cylinders and put the old rings back in, broke it in right and have used it since with no smoke and a lot more power!

Since the new battery probably has side termnials too I would just replace the cable with a new side terminal type. I've found that these tend to corrode less that the top terminal type.

The wire that connects to the spade terminal is ignition switch to starter connection, everything else should work except that the starter won't work with it disconnected. No fuseable link needed. If nothing works with that disconnected you have a problem I would say...

Most boxed sections have weep holes in them to alow condensation to escape or stiched seam welds that allow the same. On places like frame rails and the like I have injected corrosion proofing materials into those areas using a spray wand like you suggest. Much like the boys at your local rust proofing place would do, only since it is my car I think I did a little better job at making sure everything was coated. If the holes you drill are in a spot that water or dirt can enter you can get plastic/rubber plugs to fill the holes, if it is in a rather enclosed area I just leave them open. If you want to seal it up, draw a minor vacumum on the area and fill it with an inert gas like nitrogen Of course you would be hard pressed to tell if it ever leaked out

Your problem is flow not pressure. Your pump can not flow enough in GPH to keep the pressure up. 4 PSI should be plenty, 5 the upper limit otherwise you will force fuel past the needle valves when the bowls are full. What you are seeing at 3K and 2 PSI is that the pump can not handle the flow necessary to keep the pressure up to 4 PSI. I would recommend getting a higher volume pump and regulate it at 4 PSI.