LanceM

3 years sitting means crap in the gas tank to me and of my experience it sounds like it may be your problem. Gas sitting for a long time turns to a varnish like crap that coats your gas tank, smells like holy hell too! New gas in the tank seems to slowly dissolve the varnish which will pass through a filter and gum up the works every where else. I would try double dosing a couple of tank fulls of injector cleaner and see if things get better. I'm figuring that the varnish is clogging the injectors overnight when the gas evaporates and after enough driving it gets flushed out and things run right, till the next day... Sounds almost exactly like the same problem I was having with my carbs. I would clean the jets and it would run great, let it set a day or two and crapola, had to clean jets again. Mine sat for 15 years and the tank was major $hit city, got it cleaned out and the problem is gone. I also found in the mean time that a good dose of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas helped things, with it there it would keep the varnish from clogging things up as it didn't evaporate like the gas did and would let the varnish blow through on the next start up... Hope this helps...

Don't know how to check the module, I tried ohming out the bad one and got no reading, when the new dizzy came I didn't mess around with it and just stuck it in. I do know that you can check the pickup coil in the dizzy, with the dizzy out connect an AC voltmeter to the red and green wires and give the shaft a spin, you should see the meter read some voltage that will vary with the speed the shaft is spinning. I did check that. If you have several spare modules I would try ohming them out, looking for a forward/reverse differantal between the two input connectors and the two outputs. See if the modules all read about the same or maybe one of them reads really far out from the others and figure it's either the bad one or a good one

I did some looking and 5 cfm should be good for a 1/2" impact, I thought it was more. Yes you will be loosing some in the length of hose, friction and all that. In my looking I found that most impacts were rated w/1/4" inlet, though my experiance has been that they hit alot harder with bigger hose. I would guess now that the HF impact is a bit over rated, or rated in "impact torque" or some other type of fine print marketing lingo... I would maybe look for a short (25') 1/2" hose and connect it to the impact with a QD at the other end for the compressor, the fittings are all the same size, and see if that helps. Hose is pretty cheap. HF won't have 3/8" QD, you will probably have to check an industral supply or maybe NAPA. Though often used (probably most incorrectly) for assembly an impact is best used for disassembly, getting stuck stuff unstuck...

I would go with the lower CR. You will be able to burn regular gas and go. The higher will put you on the edge and gain you a wopping 5 HP or so plus the cost of premimum gas. Since the rest is stock and your DD build it that way and enjoy it.

Both, OK OK sort of both... The impact is 260 at 90psi, what cfm? What size hose are you using? and what kind of fittings inbetween? I'm guessing but to get 260 at 90 you probably need 10-11 cfm, if you are using 1/4" hose you will never get there, 3/8" is better, 1/2" would be best. If you are using quick disconnects you are loosing cfm at everyone in the line. To get the most from what you've got go to 1/2" hose direct from the impact to the compressor with no other fittings, if you must have a QD so that you can use other tools go with at least 3/8" QD, and make an adapter whip hose that goes to the more standard 1/4" for things like blow guns and the like. Another thing to check is the turn on point for the compressor, if it is adjustable set the turn on for 80 psi, that way you aren't way down in the dirt when it kicks on trying to catch up. Impact wrenches are about the most hungry air tool and need lots of cfm at pressure to meet their rated specs. All is not lost in any case, I've found that often times the hammering of an impact is more important in getting stuck things loose than shear horse power...

My guess is a bad master cylinder, it shouldn't take much to bleed the master, say 10 pedal pumps or so. Spongy brakes are another good indication that the master is going south. Considering the pressure in a closed system a pin hole leak in a line looks like a water fountain and will for sure leave a mark on the floor! Not to sound like I'm trying to sell you a fix but I have a MC that is a store rebuilt that has had fluid in it but never driven that I'll let you have for $15 shipped if you want it. I put it on then decided to do a 4 wheel disk conversion and put on a large MC from an 81.

I went through the main fill, I used a cheap 1/2" wood spade bit ($2), they have a sharp point, a good push on the drill before you start gives you a point in the metal so the bit dosen't want to wonder much. Needless to say after a few holes you throw the bit away. To get the rivits out push the center pin all the way through the rivit with an aproprate sized tool, this will allow you to take the rivit out. After you get the panel off, look for all of the pins you pushed out When you put it back together put the rivit in then insert the pin in the center and push it flush with the top of the rivit head.

Since you had it professionaly done I would first try to go back to them to get it corrected. I just sealed my own tank with extream care not to do the same thing and it did... I used a long drill extention and drilled several 1/2" holes in the baffle at the bottom to correct my mistake. Not sealing them up seems like an impossable task as the gaps are very small.

By setting your static timing higher you are getting pretty much the same thing as the vacumum advance is giving you. The trade off for setting a higher static timing is typically harder starting when the engine is hot. The best way to set timing with out using vacumum advance is to set the static timing for full advance at around 2000 rpm. 34-35 degrees is a typical full advance at this rpm. To set the timing this way warm the engine up and set the idle up to around 1800-2000 rpm and adjust it for 34 degrees. To find out where your 34 degree timing mark is check out this site http://www.thedirtforum.com/timingcalc.htm This will tell you where to put the mark on your front pully. If you set your timing up this way you will know that you have full advance out of your distributor at speed. Anyway, if you increase your static timing you shouldn't miss your vacumum advance. One of the things you loose if you go to after market carbs like webbers is vacumum advance so running without it is nothing new. I am wondering too if your vacumum advance in your distributor is leaking causing some of your low speed problems, typical of a vacumum leak??

79-81 280ZX MC is the one I used, the one from 82-83 dosen't look like it wil bolt right up, I might be wrong as I'm just looking at pics in the VB catalog.

I had heard that too about the zx calipers and the ebrake but mine hooked up no problem... Of course I had to reroute the cables some so that they wouldn't touch the half shafts but that wasn't a big deal.

Guess it depends They are a 4 bolt bracket, so if you are taking them off of a car, yes you will. What I did to put them on the car was cut out the lower back bolt area so that it would fit around the hub. All of the after market ones are 3 bolt so I didn't see any reason that these wouldn't work properly as 3 bolt also. They are 1/2" thick steel held on by large bolts so 3 should be enough. If 2 bolts are enough to hold the caliper on, 3 on the bracket should be more than enough, if you see what I mean... I didn't want to go through pulling the stub axles so I did it that way.

You guys got me scramblin to go digging in the trash for all those "rare" pieces that aren't broken too bad I can't believe $17 for that broken clip!! All the money I could have made that I've thrown away!!!!

Grab all of the mounting bolts when you go, you'll need the ones that go with the new calipers!

It's been a while but I think the old style coils were like 30-300 ohms while new style are 10 or less. Most of the new ones I've seen have "for use with electronic ignitions only" printed on the side. These are the low impeadance ones.

For my conversion I used 300zx front rotors turned down about .2" in diameter with 81 zx front calipers, a spacer was needed between the caliper and the mount to center it over the rotor. Rears used 83 280zx turbo calipers and non turbo rotors, no spacers etc needed it all just bolted on. To complete the conversion I used the MC and proporsioning valve from the 81 zx. I got the best prices on the rotors at rockauto.com, American made and real nice. Whole conversion cost me around $250 plus what I took off of the 81 parts car.

Just put a set on my 240, $52 each at the dealer.

Any low resistance 12V coil should work fine, one that is for electronic ignition. You just can't use a coil like the original 240 points coil, which is 6V and a high resistance primary coil.

I just go pl pd, a regular insurance company won't give you what it is really worth and I don't figure on wrecking it myself, I figure someone will be hitting me and their insurance company is the one I'll have to deal with. If I go PL PD I'm looking at $200 a year, full coverage around $500, I've had the car over 20 years so I've got $6000 I've saved not paying somebody for something I didn't use, that will do a lot of fixing if I ever need to and I don't plan on it. I run pl pd on all of my vehicals even my 99 Silverado, the savings add up quick and if you do have a dumba$$ attack then you pay to fix it and the insurance company is none the wiser.

did the ZX swap on my 240, The tach will work but you have to hook the wiring up correctly, don't remember how off hand but found a diagram on the web. It worked great until the 20 year old module died a couple of days ago, $124 for a new module, $106 for a rebuilt dizzy w/module, looks like I'll be getting a new dizzy!

3M 8115 panel bonding adhesive can be used for bumper cover repair.

If you are talking about gunk in the front container of the master cylinder w/no fluid, you have a problem! If this is true it is time for a major flush of the brake system front and rear and hope that this will fix it. In the master cylinder there are screens you can pull out which hopefully have trapped a majority of the gunk, pull them out and clean them in brake fluid before you begin flushing the system, no need driving more crap into the system. The best way to flush it is to get some clear 3/16" tubing and some empty cans, break the bleaders loose on all of the brakes and attach a piece of the tubing to the bleeder and stick the end into a can. Get a quart or two of brake fluid and start pumping the brake pedal slowly, keeping an eye on the fluid level of the master cylinder. Fill about every 5-6 pumps of the pedal or so, you'll see as you go how often you need to fill. Do this until the fluid in the hoses is clear, and you should be fixed. That is unless you have other problems, like a moisture buildup in the fluid that has rusted the pistons in the calipers and on and on...

Valve guide seals would be the likely culpret. During shifts engine vacumum is high, pulling oil past the seals into the combustion chamber.

Bad altenator, one of the diodes must have shorted. Did a swap with a one wire that I had from my 81 parts car, now everything is fine

Great, Moving those wires is like crunching popcorn, I can see 10 more problems poping up looking for this one! Just pulled all the fuses and no change, only if I pull the main fuseable link does it stop.... The worst part is that the car hasn't moved in 4 months and everything was fine till yesterday....