LanceM

Might have to go find one and find out why.... That is unless someone already knows. With all of the mixing and matching that goes on now surely there is a combo that would work with offset, or at least you would think so. As far as better upgrades... well there are upgrades but a steel caliper weighs more than aluminum so maybe better is yet to be found...

Hmmmm, checked out the club of texas site, they list the pistons as 12012-83W01 not 12033-83W01.... Low price = don't work?.... no offence but you are rather new here and pushing your wares pretty hard... Is there a difference in pin height between 12012 and 12033?

So $115 for the parts shipped? I guess my only question is why the discount? I mean I'm interested but anytime something looks too good to be true it usually is something else....

The subject line asks it all, 300ZX rears look pretty good, why aren't they being used as an upgrade to earlier Z's?

No really, one of the world's air forces (maybe Germany?) painted a bunch of F-16's orange w/black tiger stripes for some kind of competition/demenstration and they looked really cool. Sort of driving a tiger instead of having one in the tank??

I bought mine when they were common and changing it was the only way to make yours stand out from the rest. Unless there is a big swing in collector interest the value of an all stock Z isn't much more than one that has been "improved". I know that mine isn't worth any more than I paid for it 20+ years ago, so all in all it was a bad investment if I was looking to make some money. Those that want to keep it stock should be very grateful to those that have spent so much time modifying Z's, without that type of aftermarket interest it would probably be tough finding any kind of part for early Z's. In the end it is "your" car, keep it stock or modify it, make it the way "you" want it to be. BTW, I'm thinking of maybe a orange w/black tiger stripe paint job on my 240, anyone ever seen anything like that before??

Yep that's the one, I haven't heard anything good about them and would like to have it before next year Hopefully a good used one will pop up. Thanks!

I'm looking for a 3 piece rear spoiler for my 240, looks like what was on the late 70's Z-28 and T/A. I think I have looked everywhere for new but maybe I've missed somewhere or maybe someone here has a useable used one to get rid of. Always looking for something....

You're going to hate me but I just threw mine away, it worked but needed a new mast again. I didn't have auto retract and if I forgot to lower it someone would bust it off everytime. Got tired of that and put on a unbreakable one. ....

I've alread cut in and luckly there isn't much going on inside and what was is taken care of. I just didn't want a glue on panel, I want to fix it right and once. I will check out tabco, thanks for the tip. Lucky for me I have this ace body guy available, he said that if they are weld in he would do both sides for $100 ready for paint! I've seen a lot of his work and when he is done you won't know they were repaced!

What started out to be a little rust hole had turned into the usual monster. Luckly for me my neighbor is a high quality body man that has a very good neighbor discount, at least for me Anyway the part I need to replace it Item 11 on page 25 of the VB catalog. His question is: is this a replacement panel (glue on over the top of the existing panel) which I guess is a common thing for a lot of replacement panels or a cut to fit and weld in panel? His preference and mine are a cut and fit panel but I need to know before I order and so that he can give me an estimate. Hopefully someone has gone this route before and knows first hand.

Just did a 5-speed swap today and got mine off no problem using a standard Craftsman combination wrench, box end to break them loose, open end to take them off. This was on a 240, is a 280 different?

80-90W would probably be fine, I looked in the Chilton's manual and it dosen't say. Takes 1 liter.

Ligonier Indiana, I think I own the only Z. Road salt killed them all 20 years ago. You go to a pick and pull around here and you have to show them a picture, then they laugh and say "you still got one of those!!!" I've also heard " never heard of them" show them the picture and they never seen one either.... Why are all the parts I want in CA and no one wants to ship!

Looking in my Haynes tech book on Webbers the # after the DCOE is a series # but dosen't really seem to make any sence... They are lumped together and apart, and the only referance to the series # is to accelerator pump stroke and float level settings and they don't go in number order smaller to bigger, other than that there is no mention of series # for any other time in the manual. For sure sounds like time to call an expert to make sure you order the right thing.

Around a pound per square foot, not bad and acceptable to me. I have shaved weight in other ways so adding this back for some quiet I figure I'm still ahead of the game both ways.

What I bought is not Dynamat brand, but is suppose to be the same thing as regular Dynamat but like half the price. It is really nice stuff and is very easy to work with. I am happy with it and look forward to driving with reduced road noise.

Bought some dynamat substitue from McMaster carr and have been installing it. Goes in great and forms well to conturers. I have a question though for anyone that may have used something like this. On something like a door where would you put it for best effect? I think that if I put it under the interior skin it won't fit right because of the thickness of the dynamat. The inside of the doors was coated years ago and is rough, I don't think the mat will stick to it. Any suggestions?

I think the broken rear stud is a common problem on many L series engines, my is broke, gone, but no leak.

I wouldn't recomend an E-31 for a turbo motor is what I probably should have said Now for my NA 240Z, well I've been looking for an edge.....

The E-31 is an early 240Z head, NA and will produce probably the highest compression ratios available using a stock head. Around the block, Hmmmmm, pull it out of the driveway, kick it in the A$$ and call a tow truck to get home....

I'm not much of a turbo guy, but they but everything I've read says that they tend to run very low compression compaired to NA cars. I would think that once the boost comes on you wouldn't get around the block...

It will fit, how long the engine last with 10+ compression ratio is the question!

First off thanks for your first post cause second, OH MY GOD, I had a little of that problem on the passengers side of my car but the drivers looked fine, till now! I thought I'd better have a second look all around and took my trusty stab it screwdriver to the driver's side, poked right through the wheel well into the rocker and just finished up raking out about a pound of road silt! How does it get in it there??? Just when I thought I had all of this kind of stuff taken care of! I'll tell you one thing, that screwdriver is going to get a workout as we go everywhere else that "looked" fine and do some stabbing!!! Ed was probably right on metal size, I was guessing and haven't had any experiance in having to form pieces, I think that is about to change....

I wonder if it wasn't another "dealer" option. I bought my 73 240 in 79 with 50K showing, I'm the second owner but never met the first owner. It has Z seats but the inner panel is cloth and had a design in it that matched color wise with the orignal color of the car. I find it hard to believe that someone would go to the expence of having the seats reapolstered in that short of of time period. The job looks factory and they are still in good shape except for 30 years of being sat on. I've always wondered myself...