LanceM

All stock with aftermarket wheels. The mags are ET's that I bought probably 20 years ago, don't know but I don't think they have any special offset.

I run 235/60-14 on my 240 with no clearance issues so 205/65-14 should be a problem.

Ok to start I'm parting out my 81 ZX, I wanted the tranny for my 240 along with anything else that would work. My 240 isn't stock and hasn't been for 20 years so that wasn't an issue for me. My clock was dead when I bought the car 20+ years ago and while in storage the mice took care of the carboard glove box. Well to make the story shorter, the ZX had a nice plastic glove box, came out just fine once I figured out how to fold the top down so it would come out I shove it into the 240 and it fits but damn it's too long, hmmmm this is not a problem! the 240 screws mount on the inner side, the ZX mounts in the front! out comes the marker and the saw and a little sanding later I have a very nice plastic glovebox in my 240!! Original, no, looks factory, yes, very functional, YES! The ZX also had this great digital clock with a lap timer and other great stuff. Would it fit? Well not right away Using a sander I sanded down the clear lense to fit, then the after removing the clock face sanded it to fit the lense. I had to cut off the mounting tabs that were on the clock and now it all fits together in the original clock hole of the 240! The clock face is sort of oval and so you can see into the dash a little at the top of the clock but I plan to paint the back side of the lense black to fill it evenly all around and it should look, well almost stock I mean after all it is a Datsun clock Anyway I thought I'd pass this along to you lucky guys that have pick and pulls that have Datsuns in them... Around here they laugh and tell you that they rusted away before they could smash them!

Thanks all, Pulled the shifter handle, gee that took 30 seconds and out she came! Quick clean and easy, trans is now on the floor and the engine on a stand, time to look for stroker parts Z Kid, thanks for the memorys I seem to remember that same sequence of events happening 30 years ago Luckly I used that as a learning experiance and have graduated to a safer and happer work enviroment with a hoist and big cement floor, one thing hasn't changed though, them beers sure went down good

Yeah it's a parts car, I'll try taking the shifter off as I don't have a dolly to slide it out underneath, but that is an idea. I might be able to lower the engine to the floor and use the boom lift on the tractor to lift the front of the car and pull the car away from the engine... Ideas are forming, thanks guys!

I'm working at taking the engine and trans out of a 280zx, my question is can you pull them out together or do you have to pull the trans first? I'd love to pull them out in one piece and not have to lie on my back working any more than I have to But I'm afraid that the shifter will get in the way, will it work or any tips?? I'd like to have it ready to pull first thing in the morning if I can, want to get this job done and this car out of the shop and the 240 back in before any rain comes...

Parting out my DD, 81 280ZX next week. I think all I'm keeping is the block and the tranny and maybe some bits and pieces that I come across and like. The car runs good and drives good but I want my parts If anyone wants anything from it let me know. Prices will be cheap cause what I don't take is going to the scrap yard as soon as it is hauled out of the shop, wife don't want no "junk" sitting around. It has an R200 in it that seems in great shape and seems to have some dang low gears in it, tach turns around 3100 at 65 mph in 5th, too low of a gear for me. The hood, fenders, headlight buckets are all straight and no rust, and it has T-tops. I'm in Ligonier, IN about 35 miles north of Ft Wayne if you are wanting to pick things up.

Long ago when I was a poor boy we used to cut the bottom off of one Chevy SB pan and weld it on to the cut off bottom (after some pounding with a hammer to custom fit) of another to get more volume. Not pretty but it worked and we got the pans for free.

In another case I would agree with you but in this case I'm the second owner of the 73, I bought it in 79. I've had few passengers in the Z and only a small handful that I can remember that I would have be enough of a gentleman to unlock their door I figure between the passenger door and the rear hatch those locks are about as new as they get, the drivers door and the ignition are probably worn enough that almost anything would work, and the keys I got from the ZX are pretty fresh cut looking.

What are the odds that the door key from my "new" 81 zx parts car would fit the ignition of my 73 240??? Ha it does! I couldn't believe it, they sure looked the same but the 73 key is darn near flat on both sides anymore but I gave it a try, works in the ignition and all the doors and hatch! And this is a good thing because?? I only have one key for the 73 and any copy I've had made from it doesn't work!!! It must have been meant to be that I buy the 81 for a parts car! Even though it's turned into my DD cause I feel bad thinking about tearing up a car that runs so go and looks pretty ok from 20' away.... for a ZX that is... even if it is a lead sled that has a suspension softer than a new loaf of bread BTW, is it possible that this thing (ZX) is really turning 3K at 65 mph in 5th?? what's it got 4.11 gears??

Ouch, well I don't think it is going to work like that! You could try to bend it back but I doubt that you will ever get it back to straight or maybe even straight enough to work right again....

I've got questions, too many to go searching for, and my wife will be home soon!!! Short history, I have a 73 240, pulled it out of storage about a month ago after 15 years. I would like to add a 5 speed, R200 rear and on and on, you know just like everyone else Move to today, I snag an 81 280ZX, licenced and driveable, with factory t-tops, electric everything and it all works. It has the usual body, frame, floor pan cancer, but who cares I bought it for parts and got it for $200. My questions: 1) Can I swap the 5 speed and rear end into my 240? I'm 99% the answer is yes but got to ask. 2) It has 4 wheel disk brakes, can I swap the rears? 3) I has really nice seats that just need recovered, will they swap? 4) Electronic ignition, will it swap? Pretty sure it will 5) Since I have it what else should I look at yanking for my own use? Tach? Has a nice digital clock that works????? I figure that if I can use the tranny and diff, I got my $200 worth, anything else is a bonus, I just have to convice my wife It has some good tires and I think stock z mags, FI 280 engine that runs good and don't smoke so I figure I can probably part out the rest on ebay for the $200, What ya think?? I drove it around for a bit and I'm thinking of turning it into my DD till winter and really get my money's worth out of it! Thanks in advance for any info and for putting up with my probably already asked to many times questions!

Something that I found works well removing screws, which Datsun seems to use a lot of, is a ratchet with an Apex holder and a phillips bit in it. Using the ratchet allows you to put a great deal more force on the screw compaired to a screwdriver, keeping the tip from camming out. On a few really tough ones I have used my 1/2" air impact turned all the way down, the hammering of the impact with my body weight pushing against it has broken some loose that I was sure I was going to have to drill out.

I checked and didn't see anything that said I couldn't post this but if I shouldn't moderators please delete it and accept my appoligy. I just found this place, OEM Nissan parts by the thousands, so they say, at what look to be great prices. Their web site isn't complete but here's the link. http://www.oem-surplus.com/nissanwebpage/ I have no connection with these people, don't know anything about them, just found the site and wanted to pass it along to those looking for OEM parts for a restoration that can't be found anywhere else, maybe here.

OK, this is my opinion since you asked for one The temp sending unit is an imersion type of sensor, the sensor is in the fluid. These types of sensors typically are pretty resistant to outside sources, and with the true sensor being a distance from the outside, any outside heat would be drawn away from the sensor by the cooling fluid. I would say that in real life, if the head of the sensor was 240 and the bulb was in 190 degree fluid the reading from the bulb would probably be within + or - 2-4 degrees of the true fluid temp. I use a lot of these at work, sometimes with the fluid hot and the head of the sensor cold, like -40C and the reading is the same if you had the head temp at 100C. Of course the instruments I'm using at work are a much better quailty than the sensor in the car but in relation the effects should be the same. Of course the best way is to measure the fluid in the radiator with a bulb type of therometer and get a true reading of the temp with your expected gauge results. I would have to say also (another of my opinions) that I've seen many posts on "high temps" one way or another and I wonder if there is too much hair splitting, I mean it is an engine, the temp varies, sometimes it will get "hot" but not overheated. The factory gauge was meant to be a general indicator, not a calibrated gauge, if you want exact temps install a quality instrument. With todays oils temp ranges can be much higher and still safe compaired to what was available 30 years ago. Don't take anything I said wrong, you asked for opinions and you got mine They are like most things you get for free.... and like that one part of the body, everyone has one

I was finally able to duplicate the problem on the bench using a hunk of 2x4 to load the starter when it was running! Took it apart and found that the grease in the bendix was all hard from sitting 15 years. Dumped some assorted fluids in it and worked it around a million times and now it works fine. Well at least good enough for me to get it in and out of the shop to work on other things until I get it on the road next year, then a new one will be probably the best thing. Of course now that that's fixed my coil took a dump on me, anyone got a stock one they want to get rid of??? I don't want to buy a new one as I'm not sure yet what kind of ignition I'm going to swap to...

Well back in the car it does the run away starter thing still!!! I'm not using any of the cars wiring except for the battery cables, just like I did on the bench where it worked fine... Think it's time to go have a few cold ones and think about this for a while....

This is getting too weird, out of the car the starter works normally, I have it hooked up the same way as I did in the car and I'm jumping it with a screwdriver, works fine!!! When I did the same thing in the car it wouldn't stop! Going to clean up the ground connection and put it back in and see what happens....

Hedders are part of a package of performance parts. If you are not going to change the cam and carbs you don't really need headers and won't really notice any improvement in performance. They will raise the underhood temps also. I would say that if you are not going to be doing any other engine mods I would stay with your current setup.

Well I've got it troubleshot down to the starter!! With all wires removed from the starter except the = - from the battery, jump it with a screwdriver and away it goes!!! This falls into the catagory of way too weird, so time to pull the starter again and figure out just what is going on with it!!

On my 73 240 when you go to start the car the starter won't stop even if you shut the key off! I thought it was a bad solinoid and put in a new one and it does the same thing! The only way to stop it is to pull the battery cable, luckly I guess the engine doesn't seem to be firing either??? If you reconnect the battery then everything is fine until you try to start it again. This started all of a sudden and I'm sort of stumped as to what the cause is... I don't see that there is a relay in line but maybe I'm missing something in the wiring diagram. Any and all help on this stumper would be apreciated!

I would think that they would have to be pretty dirty, but then they may be! An easy test would be to pull them off and take a quick spin down the road. I won't hurt anything to run around the block once without them unless you live on a dirt road

I'm a Webber guy so this might not apply, but the carbs looks simular in construction so they probably work much the same way. My first guess is that the float level isn't set right or the needle valves are leaking bad. Ever get any gas dripping out of the front of the carbs? The only adjustment besides syncing them is the idle mixture which is out of the picture at 2K. If they have a "choke" which is really a mixture riching valve maybe they are stuck open or you are running the choke lever in the wrong position, this would give you a way rich mixture all the time. If you have been running it this way for a while the plugs are probably pretty fouled and could be part of the current problem, though it sounds like changing them will only be a partial fix. Those are my guesses....

Did you put it under the carpet too? I'm just wondering if the bubbles will pop like under your heal and cause your carpet to wear faster because of no cushion. Sounds great though for the tunnel and firewall!

I feel your pain, I'm in the same situation. The first thing I did was decide that there was no way that I was going to be driving it before next spring, I'm in northern Indiana so who knows when that may be I've been doing a little of both, body and engine. When I get tired of doing one I work on the other, sometimes I don't have the money for one but I do for the other. Fuel line is just a couple of bucks and there's plenty to replace, I spend $5 and have something useful to do for an evening and another thing is done. In doing my inspection for rust I pulled the fenders and I've decided to leave them off until next year, it's alot easier working on the engine compartment with them off and I don't have to worry about messing up the paint with a belt buckle or dropped wrench. I guess my advice is go slow, do things in logical steps (like don't worry about getting the engine to run before you clean out the gas tank and lines) and switch to another part of the car when your interest in the current job is in low tide. Make a list of what you need to replace and carry a copy in your wallet, that way if you feel like working on another part of the car tonight you can stop on the way home and pick up the parts without trying to remember what you need. When you are restoring a car like you are take your time and do it right, and since it all needs to be done, do it as you please and enjoy yourself.