LanceM

Should work fine.

My nearest largest city is Ft. Wayne, IN

Black interior, manual trans.

Ohhhh I hate it when that happens !!

I would say yes to using a punch and driving it out(probably best if you can drive it out from the bottom up just in case it is a tapered hole, it's always best to drive out pins the way they went in). If you thread it get a proper sized shoulder bolt so the bearing has something to ride on besides threads or else they will eat up the bearing (the roller thing) in short order.

I've been looking at options, I've been thinking of grinding and filling then a light glass coat and painting. I'm not getting her out till spring so I have time to weigh my options. I was thinking that filling it might last along time as long as it isn't hit, and with an early Z bumper, getting hit usually distroyed it anyway....

I don't know the weight of the 280 2+2 but I like the performance that an aluminum flywheel has added to my car. You will loose some off the line launch but once you're in the R's it cranks! I remember being told long ago that every pound off of the flywheel is like 10 pounds off of the cars weight performance wise.

Well if a 72 will fit I might just go that route, I was under the impression that only thing that would fit a 73 is 73. If I can easily retrofit a 72 than that will probably be a lot less work. Thanks, It's been a month and I'm still waiting for my MSA catalog....

The amp rating if for the amount of current the contacts can carry. For a relay or solinoid bigger is better. If you use a 40 amp in a 10 amp circuit the contacts should last for ever, where if you used a 5 amp the contacts would burn out.

Over the years everytime that I have had to remove the drums I use a large puller with an air impact. It works everytime and I haven't damaged a drum yet. This time when I reinstalled them I gave the axel hub a lite coating of anti seize, we'll see in a few years if it makes the job any easier. I rented a puller the first time, $25 for the day, after that I went down and bought a set of the cheap china crap ones for $25, got like four of them in the set and they are still going strong after 20 years. They aren't as nice or as good as the ones I have at work but they do the job.

I was thinking that maybe I should ask first if a glass bumper is available from someone already? That would save me a lot of work!

Thanks! I'm waiting for catalogs from everyone, if they are in there then I'm on my way!

My front bumper is shot, has some rust through along with the holes that the rotted rubber hung on. I'm planning on making a mold and making a fiberglass replacement. I want to paint it anyway, and state law says I have to have a "bumper", not that the original did anything but dent or crush when you "bumped" something. So I'm going to make a mold and build one out of fiberglass. My question is if there is anyone that would be interested in one? It's a case of I can make a one time use mold cheap or a production mold for more. My understanding is that '73 front bumpers are different than any other and are hard to come by. If I do make more understand that I won't have any till probably spring as this isn't a production run, more like one at a time between honey do's, just one Z guy helping another, and if it's a hassle there won't be any No idea on costs until I make the first one. Anyway I'm really looking to see if there is any interest from anyone in need that doesn't know how to work fiberglass and needs a replacement. If nobody cares I'll make a one time mold and have mine. Of course check your state laws for legality and all of those other disclamers

Well 16 years ago when I painted the car I put these black plastic things in a safe place, so safe that I can't find them.... Where can I get new ones or does anybody have a parts car that wants to sell them??? They are the plastic bushings that fits under the windshield in the body where the (the correct name escapes me) grill that the windshied wipers poke through fit into in the back, screws hold it in the front.... HELP

Thanks for the methods, I like the work lite idea, I'm using one anyway and I might as well have it do something besides make me sweat!! I will probably also do the torch thing since some of the areas I want to do are pretty small. The chemical methods I'll pass on since it wouldn't be easy to do outside and I don't care to fill the shop with fumes and then be breathing all that crap in the rest of the night! Bad enough just washing it down with a rag and lacquer thinner to get to the metal.

What Kmack said! As a tripple webber owner I can say that I never mess with mine unless I feel like tinkering with them. They stay in sync and stay adjusted just fine. I think the real trick is getting them dialed in right the first time, and as was mentioned above knowing and understanding how they work. They are not your everyday carb. But by the same token they work almost exactly like a carb on a 2 stroke weedeater does, now that statement is enough to scare just about anybody off!! On Webbers the idle jets run all the time and the idle mixture adjustments are critical for smooth transion from idle to full throttle, they really should be called low speed jets. On most "typical" carbs the idle circut cuts out once the main jet takes over, typically once you hit 1500 rpm or so. The thing to remember when adjusting webbers is to idle the engine down so that it just runs, and expect it to die a couple of times during the adjustment, this can be tough with a big cam. If your idle speed is too high you are already into the main jets and the idle mixture adjustments will seem to make little to no difference causing you to set them too lean. If they are too lean you will have problems with starting, throttle transision, throttle response, and in general will make you blame them for all of the troubles of the world. Really, if they were crappy carbs, formula I cars wouldn't have used them in the days before FI or any of the $200K Italian sports cars The thing to remember when you build an engine, it is a system, if you only inprove one part of the system you may not see the gain that you expected, worse yet you may see a decrease in performance.

I aggree that you get what you paid for when it comes to paint. You might want to see if you can get the price cut some if you do some of the prep work yourself. My neighbors run a bodyshop and told me it would cost $800 in materials to repaint my car. That's just paint and tape! So I can believe $3-4K for a total job. Most of the labor is in getting ready for the paint, maybe if you do all of the sanding, cleaning, degreasing and taping off or pulling off the crome and emblems you might save some on the total costs. Of course if you don't do it right and the paint falls off they'll just lay it in your lap as a bad prep job which you did not them.... Macco, Ha I remember an old saying we had for Macco, paints on red, peels off the white!

Outstanding Steve, I'll give it a try, I'm tired of coming out from under the car black with undercoat! Not to mention how bad my trouble lite smells as the undercoat dust burns off!!

OK it looks like the vinal will come off of the trans tunnel no problem, what's the modern day replacement for the horsehair padding which I want to eleminate totally from the car. Anyone have any suggestions or leads?

Well as I continue to work on my 240 that has been resting for the last 15 years I have found some rust in some places of the floor pan. Nothing bad just something that needs taken care of before it gets worse. POR-15 time. My delema is that 20 years ago I heavily undercoated the car, now I have to take some of it off. Anybody got an easy way to strip areas of undercoat? About the only thing that I've found that works is a twisted wire wheel in a grinder, it gets the job done but is a real mess and is slow. I've thought about a propane torch with a flame spredder and a scraper but the idea of flame, tar, and my car all in the same place doesn't give me any warm fuzzys. Any hints or tips out there??

Here's my $.02 for what it's worth. If all you are doing is carbs your in for a $700 disapointment, if you are doing carbs, cam, head, exaust then spend another $300 and go tripple webbers. I really like mine and don't have any of the "problems" others complain about, perhaps I'm just lucky but they run good and I never have to mess with them. The choke works great for cold starts.

Taking the pos off with the engine running is not a good idea, some alternators will burn up with out a load. I don't know if the Z's will or not but it isn't worth the cost to find out. I would do two things, reinstall a mechanical fuel pump, I take it that you only have the electric, and get the battery tested. In my opinion 2 pumps are better than one, you can still get home if one breaks The battery may have an intermittant short between a couple of cells, this often happens when you run one out of water or if the battery is old (a lot of sediment in the bottom of the battery). This will put a hell of a load on the altenator causing your voltage to drop and may be slowing or shutting off you electric fuel pump.

Very Pretty I have to admit that this site has me thinking of working in the engine compartment myself. Mine looks like hell but it runs great. I guess that I just hope no one ever asks me to "open the hood"

The hissing is for sure a leak, check the hoses but it is probably the booster. The clutch master/slave probably just figured it was time to die, or it could be worse, if your pilot bearing is sort of shot or just real dry it could keep the input shaft of the transmission turning enough so that you can't put it in gear. That is what I suspect. Replacing the pilot bearing requires pulling the transmission and either special tools or a lot of luck. Sometimes you can use hydralic compression to force them out by packing the center with grease and using a tight fitting rod hit with a hammer to back them out. Pros have a tool that fits inside with hooks that grab the back of the bearing and pull it out. If the hydralics are working fine cold, easy to check, have someone push on the clutch while you look then, it is probably the pilot bearing. Since it gets better after it warms up it might be that whatever grease was in there has dried up. A free fix/try would be to pull the tranny and clean up the end of the input shaft and put a "little" and I mean a "little" grease on it and and maybe a dab in the bearing, put it back together. This is a case where more is not better, too much can be thrown back on to the clutch plate, grease and clutch don't mix well