LanceM

On my '73 the hazzard lite switch is a big arse knob under the cig lighter, you can't miss it if it's there I suspect that your flasher problem is a bad ground, with all of the lites on there is too much resistance to draw enough current through the flasher and make it switch on and off. Check all of your body grounds at the lites and elsewhere.

Just want to be clear, I mean to loosen the valves .010-.015" more than stock clearances. It will be noisy but won't hurt anything.

It could be that chain streach is getting you, a guess, it's been a long time since I cammed a Z and don't remember for sure now how to dial it in, have to check the books. One way to check, not that's it's less work, is loosen the valves .010-.015" this would have the same effect as retarding the cam, if it is better driving you know that the cam is advanced, worse, that it is retarded. At least that way you would know which way you need to slip the sprocket. Faceing the front of the engine moving the cam clockwise would advance it, CCW would retard it. Good luck!

Sorry, yep a new pump is the only way to fix a bad diaphram....

Since your tank sounds many times worse than mine was I would for sure recommend it be take to a professional, it sure sounds like more than a home job. The float sending unit comes out in one piece and should be removed and cleaned up. Take care taking it out, there is a metal ring that you will have to drive counter clockwise and get out then the whole sending unit can be removed. Take care removing the ring, as far as I know there are no replacements, the little tabs that you pound against (gently) can be broken off and you are screwed.... I cleaned up my sending unit as I have not been able to find a replacement, if anyone knows where new replacements are available let me know as I'd sure like to put a new one in. As was mentioned before don't break the little wires on the rheostat or you are screwed again!!!

Being a tooth off on the cam affects the cam timing not the ignition timing. If the cam was advanced too much the intake valve would close too soon, loss of fuel charge, and the exhaust would open too soon, less of a problem power wise but could cause a burnt valve. A retarded cam the intake opens too late, loss of fuel charge as the piston may push some of it back out before the valve closes on the compression stroke, exhaust valve opens late causing exhaust vapors to be compressed (power loss) before they can escape, and maybe causing some to be drawn back in on the intake stroke (because the intake hasn't opened, even though there is valve overlap) reducing fuel charge. Really a bag of worms if you look at worst case Best way to check is to take off the valve cover and hand crank the engine around to TDC on #1 cylinder compression stroke and check to see that your timing mark on the cam is in the right place or off a tooth or two, I don't think it would run if it was more than that.

An alumimun flywheel is sure the way to go if you can afford it, they say that every pound off the flywheel is like taking ten pounds off the car, or something like that. I love the way it will rev with a light flywheel, if nothing else is sure sounds cool You won't need a heaver clutch with a lightend flywheel, but I have no opinion on theirs. You might want to check and see if there is a clutch rebuilder in your area, they are farily common, and have them rebuild your old clutch. Usually it is cheaper than buying new from an auto parts store, which is probably rebuilt anyway, and you've got a local guy to bitch to if it isn't right.

Sounds like a bad diaphram in the mechanical pump causing the leak down. My fuel filter never fills full even at high rpms, mine is before the mechanical pump.

Sounds like the master cylinder crapped out. Climb under the dash and see if you have brake fluid coming out of the rubber boot sticking through the firewall. Since it was stuck, when you punched it all the way down you may have torn a seal on whatever was holding it up.

Can't say for sure but the fingers look ok to me, what usually happens is they break off, they all look there and even. Since you have it out I'd take it to a clutch shop and have them check it out, maybe the springs are just tired. What I ment by the throw out bearing "dissappearing" is sometimes they wear out and actually break up ending up in the bottom of the housing. They usually make a hell of a lot of noise for a long time before that happens, but since your's is there and intact it wasn't causing the problem. Is the clutch disk good?

Burnt valve??

Aren't electral proplems great Give me a mechanical any time !! For the running lites I'd say you have a high resistance short, in other words it's not quite shorted to ground so the fuse isn't blowing. Say it's a 10 amp fuse, with the lites on they draw 5 amps, the wire is cool, add a high resistance short and it draws another 4 amps, 9 amps total, the wire gets hot but the fuse doesn't blow. Remember the fuse is to protect the wire, which can handle 10 amps but not 15-20. Get an volt ohm meter, they are cheap, with the lights off measure from the hot lead to ground on ohms, it should read infinte if you get a reading you have a short. Finding it is the hard part, probably the best way is to turn on the lights and feel the wire every where it goes, warm the short is in front of you, cool the short is behind you. For the reverse problem, next time it happens leave the shifter in reverse, key on, and get out and see if the back up lites are on. If they are you can sort of eleminate them from the problem, if they are off??? try disconnecting the reverse light switch and see if the problem goes away... That's the only thing I can think of that is different from going forward. Good luck!

A little ticking is normal, don't work too hard at it and overtighten one of them, you'll eat up your cam in no time. If the clearance is right after you snug down the lock nut I wouldn't worry about it, mechanical valves are noisy compaired to hydralic which have a cushion of oil to ride on.

I just read somewhere, either here or another site about how the tachs are hooked up. Seems the 240's hook up different somehow that the rest of the models.... I read it because I have a 240 and it was interesting, not because I needed to know and I'm afraid that I've forgotten the high points! Anyway it's probably not the tach but how it is now hooked up with the new ignition. Sorry I can't be of more help

Thanks for the heads up, I'll flush it with some soda real good. Lance

Finding them is tough, I've been looking for a while myself. They are made of cardboard so that may be why they are so rare, later models used plastic. I still have mine and have been considering using it for a pattern to make a new one myself if I can find some suitable material to work with. I did find one last year (used not NOS)and the guy wanted $50 for it, he may still have it

Carguy, If your cam is a regrind, which it probably is, it will probably be tough to tell what the grind is. If there are any numbers they will probably be on the end under the drive sproket. Since this will just be a part # it won't do you much good without knowing the manufacture. More than likely the only way to tell what it is would be to measure it, get your degree wheel out and your dial indicator and start turning

Just cleaned mine after 15years sitting. About the same situation. Remove the sending unit for the gas gauge and you will have a lot better shot at cleaning it out. I sprayed mine everyway I could with a power washer then dumped a half gallon of muriatic acid in it and let it sit for about an hour gently stirring the tank around every once in a while. Then I connected a garden hose to the vent on the drivers side of the tank and flushed it for about 30 minutes. Came out looking like new inside, I started with about a half inch of really nasty smelling gunk on the bottom to start with

I don't know if anyone makes one, but with the age of the engine I wouldn't want a "kit". You never know what you are going to find and having to later go with oversize crank bearings or something would add to the kit price real quick with things you can't use. I would buy a full gasket set and go from there. If you find that you need the crank turned I would buy the bearings from the shop that's turning it, they will usually check to make sure that what you get fits. Same if you have the engine bored, buy the rings/pistons from them, they'll match the bore to the piston/ring. You'll end up saving money this way though it might cost more than a kit but you won't have extra new parts you can't use.

First off since you changed the master cylinder and still have no fluid out of the rear you have not fully bled the system and have air in in now, so the brakes are worse than before. I would say that with air still in the master cylinder brakeing would be erratic on the side that was bled too. Here's what I would do, first you need to find out where the fluid is stopping on it way to the back brakes. I'm not sure which way the check valve goes in off hand but you probably know going by the clean side dirty side method of how it was mounted. I would loosen a fitting one at a time starting at the master cylinder and have someone pump the brakes while looking for fluid, if fluid comes out move backwards until you find where the fluid stops. You may have a clogged line, frozen wheel cylinders, clogged bleaders. Got to get them fixed right, stopping is not an option

Wow that must have been some pump! Considering the inlet size of the needle valve in the carb I find it hard to believe that you could put enough pressure on the needle to force the floats into a full bowl. It may be more of a case of the seat and needle being worn and gas bypassing causing the overflow. A regulator wouldn't hurt and I would set it between 5-10 psi, that should give you more than enough flow.

I'm the second owner and believe the car was all original when I bought it in '79. Mfg date 11/72 HLS30-135546 L24 142045 Original color orange, now yellow. Restored and modified both engine and body.

'73s use both an electric and mechanical pump. If I remember right the electric doesn't turn on until the engine reaches 600 rpm for safety, if the engine stops the fuel pump stops. That way if in a crash the fuel line ruptures and the engine is stopped but the key on you won't be pumping fuel all over who knows what is hot or sparking while you are in the car wonding what happened!! I would not eliminate the mechanical pump myself, but have no problem with adding an electric as a boost pump to the mechanical one.

I understand now. Yes you could use this outlet for a fuel return line but I wouldn't. Doing so would lower the fuel pressure available to the carb, in a high boost situation you might not have enough pressure to feed the carb. I would leave it as it is, you don't need a fuel return line. Cars never had them before the early '70s.

Adding an electric fuel pump won't hurt, it will keep fuel to the manual pump and reduce the amount of work it has to do to keep the fuel pressure up. You don't need a fuel return line, it was added as a way to reduce emissions, a polution control device. I don't quite understand your second question, so I'll answer it this way. You can't use the fuel return line for feeding a carbarator, looking at your attached photo it looks like the fuel pump has two outlets, so I assume that one is currently blocked and would guess that it could feed two different lines. A single line should be able to feed multiple carbs with no problem using a Y or other connector to split the line.