LanceM

Maybe try the next size thicker o-ring?? Be sure the sealing area is clean, any little piece of crap will deform the o-ring and allow a leak.

What sblake1 said. Really any L series starter should work ok just that the later ones draw a little less current, but there should be more ZXs in the JY than earlier ones so that shouldn't be an issue. I would also hazzard a guess that any alternator from a Nissan in that year range would probably be using the same alternator, look for a car that had a lot of power options, usually they have the larger output alternators.

I'd vote for valve seals too, really not that hard to change with engine in the car, might make a good winter project since it is going to sit anyway.

By 73 they were metal, the 72 I'm parting has one of each, metal on driver's side which has evidence of repaired damage along the whole side and fiberglass (FRP) on the right.

Sold to texasz, thanks everyone for your interest.

First off let me say I'm a carb guy and really don't know squat about EFI. But since the fuel is injected at the head it would make sence to me that the intake should be as smooth and shiny as possible to allow the air to go unimpeaded to the intake port of the head, there is where the fuel is mixed during the intake stroke and the really important things happen. Once it gets to the head is when you don't really want a polished port, you need to mix the fuel with the air....

My 73 has a build date of 11/72, I'm just parting a 72 with a build date of 7/72 and have seen just a few minor differences between the cars, most dealing with construction techniques, welds instead of bolts, stuff like that. I would lean towards the 73 diagram as model dates seem to lag the build dates quite a bit when it comes to things like diagrams.

current standings: 1 TexasZ 2 NCZ 3. Loy 4 71 240Z I'm waiting for a reply so please wait patiently with me

Since any 240-280 hatch will work it might be easier to find a replacement.

They aren't suppose to be crooked???

Anyone ever use this? I've done it the old fashion way but don't want to go to all of the work. My parts car came with a nice set of 5 slot mags and the more I look at them the more I like them, of course they are 30 years old and look it. Anyway the Eastwood kit looks like the way to go, any opinions?

A half hour of cranking would for sure put a drain on the battery. The starter is the heavest drain on the battery.

Opps, wait, we're talking too different things, I am refering to start position on dist rotation refrencing plug one if wired correctly. So using your pic montoya_fan01 and looking at my running engine, my dist is rotated so the #1 wire is at about a 10 o'clock position. There is a difference for me also as I'm running a ZX dist which has a further distance between wires and the cap is also a little different where the hold downs are.

Very interesting, I was going by my engine, looks like sometime in the past mine was changed, and not correctly!

You need to just start at the begining and ask yourself these questions: 1. Are you getting spark to the plugs? Easiest way to tell is pull a plug, connect the wire to it and hold the base of the plug to a clean ground, a strut nut will work well. Have someone crank the engine, you should see a blue spark between the electrodes on the plug. Timing settings will have no effect on wether or not you have spark. My guess it that you don't have spark, if the timing is even close it should try to start, if not at least be backfireing through the carbs or exhaust. 2. No spark check for voltage at the coil and dist with key in On position, did you perhaps knock off the wire to the dist, or off of one of the coil connections or the dropping resistor?? This is assuming that you are using the original points type dist? 3. Standing on the drivers side of the car looking down on the dist, the #1 spark plug wire should be about in the 10 o'clock position. BUT it may not be anywhere close if the dist/oil pump has been inproperly installed. DON'T switch a bunch of stuff around to get this, but if you can rotate the dist so this 10 o'clock position is available your timing should be in the run area and allow the car to start if you have spark and fuel.

OK, sort of wish I would have just ebayed it, wouldn't have had to play the who's on first game Anyway current standings: 1. 71DatsunZ 2. TexasZ 3. NCZ 4. Loy 5. 71 240Z And this is how I will end this, Monday 4PM eastern time, if #1 hasn't gotten back to me by then and either said yes or no it goes to #2, #2 backs out, on to #3 and so on. This will be over Monday night so I can get it cut and the shell off to the yard. All along I was thinking that Maybe there would be one person interested, not 5, and never ment for this to turn out as it has.

I believe that all of the racks are interchangeable but there is a difference between early and late bushing sizes. VB catalog shows one part # for 70-73 a different one for 74-78.

If the oiler isn't working right cam damage would happen fast, there is a lot of pressure there. Once the metal gauls things happen fast.

Jim, your pics are too little to really see what it is, they are not much larger than the thumbnail ones. Where is it on the car?

When I read this first line I thought ??? WTF???? Mine didn't weight that much!!! Then I read the rest My first smile of the day, thanks!

Don't know how much it would weigh till I cut it out, you are #4 wanting this, didn't realize it would be such a hot item I would say if you figure 10# from 46767 you should be good to go.

$50 + Shipping, however big of a chunk you want.

I just picked up a 72 240 parts car, the battery tray area looks great, some surface rust but that's about it. I've already fixed mine and don't need this and I want the car out of here by the end of next week. I figured I'd ask here first if anyone was in need, otherwise I'll probably ebay it. I can cut what ever you want. Car is pretty stripped already but most of the drive train is there w/auto tranny. Car was a driver before being parted. PM me if you need any sheet metal, roof is good and the rear quarters behind the wheel wells look good. Doors, glass, hatch, hood, interior, fenders, are gone.

Pump only runs when the engine is running, a safety feature. On a 240 there are some relays mounted to the firewall next to the battery, one of them I believe runs the pump, I believe that the two that look alike can be switched for troubleshooting, don't remember what the other does at the moment. I don't know how different a 260 is from a 73 240, hope this helps.

Looks pretty bad, hole in firewall above tray, if there is a hole there then the seam between the firewall and inner fender is gone too. Looks like a lot more than just scraping off the rust and repainting. This is just one part of the car, but if it looks like this the rest of the car is probably needing Big $ to bring it up snuff...