1975yellowBSPZ

The spring rates on the st springs are 182 front and 202 rear, BTW. Looks like I'll probably go for the Illuminas some time before spring, unless I find some Koni Yellows for the 75 Z.

I don't want to hyjack the thread but....does anyone know what size/offset wheel you can get away with to fill the flares? I have the problem that my 14X7's with the current 235s stick out past my fenders slightly, but probably not enough to not look silly under the flares. I'd be interested in the group buy, but can't justify wheels AND flares this year (on top of the engine work/struts/tires...) heres what my setup looks like now http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6752&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

I'm looking at adding new struts to my auto-x car this winter ($$$ permitting) and am looking at getting the illuminas rather then revalving my current units or getting the Konis ($$$). I have the suspention techniques springs and swaybars. Is anyone running this setup with the tokicos? Any recomendations? I belive the ST springs lower the car 1" and the tokico spings 2" but I may be mistaken. thanks BW

http://www.vulcantire.com/azenis_t.htm Falken Azenis sport, absolutly te best performance tire for the money. A lot of auto-xers use them in street tire classes. anything else and you have to double the price. only comes in a 195 in 14 though. They don't last as long as a conventional tire (20k tops) but for the price... buy 2 sets. I sugest buying them from discount tire (tires.com) bc they have free shipping on a set. bw

looks pretty nice to me ;-) esp w/ those top wheels I like my FI ok. check it out, and if its everything he says go for it. And I think the yellow looks quite nice, don't listen to these haters, embrace the yellow. BW supporter of the yellow Z

haven't had a chance to drive it yet, It looks like it will be fine. I'll keep you posted. BW

Negative, Ghost Rider, the patern is full. :classic:

I have fuel injection, and headers, so I suppose I can speak to this somewhat (just barely as I'm new to this too). If you are going to get a free flowing exhaust and want to see a real differnce from it, and you want to keep the FI, I recommend getting the larger msa throttle body http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-3021-2&Category_Code=PFFC14 the ram air: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PFFC12 and updated fuel rail. This combination will help and give a noticeable increase in performance, but to get more performance out of the fi setup, you'll need a decent cam. I have heard a lot of talk one way or the other about fi or carbs, but the fi is really a pretty decent setup with the above mods. BW

my car has a 2.8, with a msa header fi with msa big tb, cam and some other motor goodness, 2.5" or 2 3/4" exaust (haven't measured it) to a little 2 chamber flowmaster back in the rear with no seperate resonater. It is somewhere between too loud and way too loud!! When I bought the car in houston I had to drive it back to dallas (4 hours away) we were stuck in traffic it seemed like forever, so when I finally got on an overpass I put a little gas into it. there was a harley type on a bike with loud pipes in the right lane and I saw him turn and look at me to see what was drowning out the sound of his hog!! I almost hit the barrier I was laughing so hard... BW

In referece to my original question, on my 75- using HS30-H's measurement, just like he said I did not have to remove my fenders, I loosened the front half of the fender liner and slid my hand up and around to get to the nuts on the back. The process took all of 20 minutes. The mirrors I got, much like the ones in msa's catalog, have short bases, so you have to move them outboard on the fenders, I moved them 1 3/4 inches outboard, that way I could kind of split the difference and cover the holes with the outward edge of the bases if I got the factory units at some point. I have pictures in my gallery of my setup and can take more if anyone has any questions. BW

my aplogies! I did use your measurements and it was perfect! I'm sorry I came off as indifferent, the information and the image was right on target! sorry I didn't properly thank you, I guess I forgot (toomanymessageboardpostitis) if you were in Texas I'd buy you a cold one for sure!!!! BW

Mine? Its not painted, its raw aluminum mesh. pretty low tech bu it works... I have $30 in parts in it. there are more pics in my gallery. I have some pics/specs of making it if u want more info. BW

as for the mirrors...I got some cheap black talbot knockoffs for $50 on ebay, the pictures are in my gallery. BW

FYI- the retail price is 114 each, his starting bid is right at the retail price, sooo its not a great deal, but since they are disscontinued.. http://www.konigwheels.com/catalog_product_details.cfm?CategoryID=1&ss_id=144

or you could just not have any bumpers ;-) http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6670 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6263&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

:stupid: found out what the deal was, the wire that plugs into the sensor on the themostat housing was unplugged just enough... pushed it in a bit and... VRRRRRMMMMMMMMMMM thanks to everyone for your help! BW

I'd put a supertrapp tip on the rear, and leave the thrush on. It will take the harshness out and allow you to tune the note. This is what I plan to do, I have a 2 chamber flowmaster and I'm in the same boat as you. the supertrapp tips are like $70. BW

OK, now I have a problem first off my 1975 z w/ the mildly hopped up L28 was burning some oil on the way back from houston where I bought it. I then did a comp check on it on found it was almost dead on 2cyls marinal on the rest. I'm in the process of figuring out what I'm going to do on the rebuild (needs rings etc) we set the valves, we put some oil in the cyl. for the compression check, just to get it as good as can be until the rebuild - now it won't run its turns over and starts with my foot to the floor, then it sputters and dies I set the timing, with it running on the starter thinking mabe that got outta whack - we had to pull the dizzy out b/c the hold down screw was stripped- retapped that and its ok it still won't run, its seems to be getting spark (I can set the timing) it seems to be getting fuel (it has a mechanical and electric fuel pump) I ran it close to out of fuel so I thought it has some junk caught in the fuel filter. It threw gas all over me so I think It's flowing fine ;-) any ideas?? I can't even drive it to the shop to get the motor worked on at this rate and it used to run fine. Help!! Bryan In Dallas

I am looking at getting some fairlady style fender mirrors for my z, the units I'm looking at use studs and nuts from the bottom. Will I need to remove my entire fenders to mount them and if so how involved is this process? BW

Thats kind of what I thought. It'd be a while before I can get the quaife and that seems like the way to go... I have more important things to worry about right now anyway - like the fact my engine has less then 40 psi on half the cyl :-( anyone with a solid running l28 in texas that can help me up - don't be shy :-) BW

2many, sooo got a lead on a welded 180 huh. I was wondering if it would be an option to run a welded rear in my auto-x car untill I could afford an lsd, but I think it might be more trouble then its worth. I just have a 180 running 4.11's and a 4speed currently. Non-adjustable sway bars front and rear, sys dynamics springs yada yada. thoughts from the zpeanut gallery? bw