Bentley

Bummer on the supply line. IF you check the achieved threads, and search under gas tank, or fuel tank, there were several long threads last fall, and one fellow had the same problem you have with the fuel line. As for my problem, I called Renu (Hart dealership in Texas) and they confirmed that I had really informed them ahead of time, were really sorry, and insisted on repairing the problem themselves, and covering shipping both directions. I did not ask for, or expect that. They were so nice and professional, it was refreshing. I had lined up 2 days without wife and Kids to blitz the Z, and the first step was to install the new tank. SInce the tank had a problem, I was really tempted to drill away myself, but I sadly decided to what again. The folks at Renu handled my delicate condition just right, so I shipped it back to them. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND TO ANYONE OUT THERE WITH PLANS TO SEAL A TANK ---- DRILL HOLES THROUGH THE FIRST BIG BAFFLE BEFORE IT IS SEALED! A pair of 1/2 inch holes should do the job, without effecting the performance of the baffle. THis should be standard operating procedure for this tank because the original gaps were really too small to start with if you ask me. Mine were sealed with sludge when I took it out.

THanks. I am going to call Renu this morning, but I'm still in denial that I'll probably need to send it back for a few weeks. :tapemouth Lance, When you went in with the drill, did you go straight in the main fill tube? THat looks like the best route, if I have too. Any trick to staying off the bottom of the tank? Also, I want to check the top of the vent tubes, but the little plastic rivets that hold the interior panels are tight. Any trick to getting them out with out breaking them? Z-idiot

Hi gang, I sent my tank to "Gas Tank Renu" and it looks great. However, they appear to have permanently sealed the gaps at the bottom of the baffles in the tank, although I begged them ahead of time to be careful NOT to clog them. Anyway, they are sealed, thus leaving the tank very divided. I expect the result will be a lifetime of incorrect fuel gauge measurements. Any Suggestiions on a do it yourself fix, like drilling through the baffle? I have not installed the tank.

AL, why don't you add a little gas and see if it will run through to the drain plug?

This comment is a little late, but perhaps will be of use to someone else. My experience largely mirrored yours. To make the final diagnosis, I put an 8 foot length of fresh hose from a 5 gallon gas can, sitting 4 feet form the car to the input of the gas filter. I sucked some gas into the pump with a hand pump, and she fired right up for the first time in 13 years. I'm still working on the gas tank issue, which is another story. Z Village Idiot:stupid Bentley:

Thanks for all the help! I appreciate the explaination about the "heavy" end of the gas spectrum. How can something as simple as an empty metal can......get so complex? My tank appears to have no visible rust, but an ungodly amount of crud. After it flakes off, Between my fingers, the crud appears mostly like plain old dirt. However, I have considered the idea that it is a new chemical element all to itself, or perhaps a gas tank inhabiting life form since it is as heavy on the top of the tank as the bottom. This crap is a good 1/8-1/4 inch thick, and is, in places, impervious to an hour of steaming hot pressure from a power washer. Strong detergent and degreaser have little/ no effect on dissolving it. It is possible that I have a tank that someone else tried to seal and did a poor job. I wanted to believe this, but once the stuff comes off in a hunk, it can be easily smashed into dirt between my fingers. For the record.......these tanks have two baffles, about 5-6 inches in height, dividing the lower half of the tank into thirds. At the bottom of each baffle are small gaps and at the top of the baffles there is a couple of inches of clearance. So they are like fins sticking up 80% of the depth. I have found that I have been able to get most of the crud (80%) out of the section nearest the input tube and sending unit, because I can blast away with straight access. I have cut back the crud to reveal clean metal, and have opened up the gaps at the base of the first baffle, allowing the first and second section to again be one tank, instead of two. Thought...It makes sense this crap would not be broken down with detergent, since gas would cut it away naturally if that were the case. Perhaps kmack knows what will break down the mystery substance? New QUESTION: Since this crud is not Rust-based, but appears to be heavy residue, it seems that cleaning the tank is a must, but that having the tank heavily sealed does not directly effect the core problem. If kmack has explained the nature of the crud, then it will appear again on top of any sealed surface. Right? (Or perhaps only if left for decade.) If at the end of this weekend, if I have not solved this puzzle, I'll send it off. Z Village Idiot:stupid: Bentley

thanks les. I'll check it out. Village Idiot has a dozen more questions.... 1) I'm still puzzled how 1/3 of the capacity of this tank is ABOVE the fill tube. Did anyone else experience having gas trapped up there? is it simply a baffled area, and my connecting "drain/fill" holes are clogged? Sorta like the lower lobes had crudded themselves into being completely seperate? The way the lower lobes were clogged, I drained all the gas out of the drain hole, but still had lots of gas trapped in the side section(s). One section drained slowly for an hour and another section, somewhere, did not drain at all. 2) It strikes me that a) since this crud does not appear to be rust, it is perhaps residue picked up in the tank through all the "vapor" return lines, perhaps post-combustion. if so, how can all of us catch this crap BEFORE it gets to a final resting place in the tank? 3) Does Muratic acid destroy the fuel guage float, or did you remove it? Does it come out with the entire sending unit? (I'm currently 250 miles from home and my tank, or I'd look.) 4) Without a doubt, this tank could not possibly have given relyable gas reading on the guage. In fact, the center section where the pick up is could be empty, and the side section where the float is have a few gallons..........thus leave an unsuspecting redneck like me stuck somehere. Just an observation i guess. For those who might be driving and having intermitant fuel guage tom-foolery. 5)Last question, is it adviseable to go ahead and replace the sending unit and float, just to keep from having having to take "two steps back"? Do they go out easily, or are they tough as nails? One day.......I'll be a fuel tank expert. "Z" Village Idiot :stupid: Ben

Hey, thanks for all these ideas, sounds hopeful. What is POR? Village idiot, Ben

THanks. I blasted it pretty good, but will try again to break through the crud. Any idea about the top lobe of the tank? Does this normally also drain into the "lower" part of the tank? This one also seems to be trapping fluid. I kow that sounds stupid, buy hey, someone here has to be an idiot and I feel as though I have found my calling. Ben:stupid:

Ok, the new Z has been sitting for 13 years. (Garaged) I drained the gas, all that i could, and even shot a screwdriver through the drain hole to dislodge and gunk that might have stopped up the hole. However, to my surprise, the tank still seemed to be holding another quart or two of gunky liquid in a section of the tank that would not drain. So, I dropped the tank and poured the gunk out the fill tube. I think the liquid was trapped in the top. Some REALLY nasty looking stuff came out. THen...I washed the tank out, best I could. When looking in the fill hole with a flashlight, I was surprised that that cavity seemed baffled from the rest of the tank. I could not see how the first few gallons of gas could get to either the pick up, or the drain plug. What am I missing? can anyone explain the basics of the interior of the gas tank on a 2/70 240Z? Ben

Thanks, I've been absorbing all I can from the link. Clearly, there is a lot there to absorb. It reveals the depth of my lack of knowledge! Fun though. So far, no rust. Thanks for the tip on AC. I have to take care of a few essentials first, but the AC is a must. In my thinking, the AC would add value (slightly) for most people. I'll be bringing it home this week and will have easier access to essential items like VIN#, etc. I'll be back soon with a load of new questions, hopefully not quite as "green" bentley

Hi folks, I just joined this forum after buying a "pig in a sack" 1970 240Z. I has 89K on it and has been garaged without starting it for 15 years. I'm excited, just don't quite know what I have yet. 1. What is the best way to find out what about what options were originally available on this car? 2. Any ideas on things to watch for as I try to bring it back to life. If the carbs are gummed up, who rebuilds them? 3. I am in Atlanta, any really good leads on a high quality paint job, one that will add value, not subtract? 4. THis car is in great shape, and stock as far as I know. I wish it had air conditioning. would adding AC to this car hurt it's value as original? If not, where would I start on pursuing AC? Thanks, ben