Trys_Hard
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Everything posted by Trys_Hard
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Let me know how it sounds when you get it in. Thanks Art -
Got it from MSA. It the Grant GT. Real easy to install just make sure you bend out the horn button sweeper and get the wheels straight before putting on the wheel. Art -
Thanks its a 75. I am running the aluminized turbo 2.5" exhaust with no cat. I like it, sounds great but I think I will get a resonator installed in the trans tunnel. Art
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The rear STB was tight. It was almost too wide to fit. But when I trimmed the excess fabric off the top of the towers it fit fine and even had a little adjustment left in it. I really like it, it makes the rear of the car much more predictable. Allows you to control on power oversteer more precisely. I did have to cut notches in the Strut Tower Covers used my Dremel took about two minutes. The console is nice for the padding and elbow rest but when you have a cup in the holder you can't rest your arm. But when alone I use the passenger side holder and it somewhat ok. I don't like cup holders that interfere with the shifter. These do but they are better than nothing. Art -
There is a picture of the front in this collection. The front center cap is tight. You have to put the cap on the wheel and then the wheel on the hub. Tighten the lug nuts evenly around the wheel and they stay tight and won't come off until you take the wheel off. Art -
Those are the Koni Sport shocks single adjustable rebound only. They are rebuildable and revalvable for different spring rates. On my STS Sentra I have the DA 8611 Sport Inserts with the nob on top for rebound and a screw adjustment on the bottom with 12 adjustments for compression. You can also get them rebuilt at Pro Parts Not sure of their current prices but they rebuilt my DA's for $90.00 each. If your really interested in great shocks there are tons available but you need to go to coilovers. If you go coilover which really isn't that much more expensive and worth it every penny then you can do just about anything. I'm thinking of getting a set of Advanced Design Coilovers for my 280Z. Art
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I picked these up for $325 for all four brand new. I think they look great. People mistake them for panasports all the time. Personally I like these better. They are pretty light also at about 13-14lbs. The tires are 225/60/14 Yokohama Avid S/T's.
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I did this myself on both seats took about 5 hours. I replaced the cushion in the drivers seat but not the passenger seat. I wish I would have the seats look nice but the passenger seat has a big gap between the back and the seat. Might have to redo it. I think they came out pretty nice.
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I kind of like the white interior. I plan on getting it completely restored. It won't be stock but I'm having the interior redone by a classic car apholster(sp) so its going to have a classic sports car look. We will be taking my white seat recovers off and replacing the main weld with a new one but Navy Blue in color. The door panels will be recovered or new ones made and stitched to simulate the original design except for the plastic trim piece. It will be replaced with a Z pattern stitch in Navy blue. The carpets will be also a dark navy blue. Then the car will be painted the original Pacific Blue with Navy Blue Pinstriping painted on. Art -
I've had it about 3 months. It's real nice with the threaded tension adjusting feature. I already had the tokico springs and Illuminas and I added the FSTB before adding the RSTB(backorder). So the change I felt in the car had to be attributed to the FSTB. It really helped turn in alot. The car felt stiffer in the front, cut down on some rattles made the feel more solid in the front. I had good steering response before because I have the poly bushings, but this made it tighter and more controllable. I'm an avid autocrosser on the national level with quite a bit of experience so I have a feel for this. It was definately worth doing. Art -
No it is code 307 Pacific Blue. Art
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No, just had to route it through the vacum hoses had no problem at all. Art
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Runs great now, uses a little oil but really runs good.
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I still have the original all wrapped up nice. Its still in good condition
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I've now changed a bunch of parts, have Tokico Illuminas, Tokico Springs, MSA Sway Bars, MSA STB's, I found out it already had urathane bushings, I have the MSA exhaust also
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Thanks I think so too. I will post here and write in my journal my steps in restoring the car. I plan on painting it the original blue and try to keep it as original as possible. Hopefully the mod bug won't bite me. I just got new rear hatch inner weatherstipping today and new clutch and break pedal covers. Art
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I got rid of those beads right away, they were all over the floorboard.
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Actually pretty clean, just old dirty not greasy dirty. -
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These pics convinced me to check out the car. -
Thanks I was looking for a place to get a FSM. I'll check those.
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I just bought a 75 280Z. It runs well when warm, and the person I bought it from told me that it needed a new air regulator. The idle on the car is set at 1100 for this reason so it won't die when cold. But this wreaks havoc on my gas mileage. I was able to repair the high/low beam switch, would it be possible to repair the air regulator. I was thinking if I could flush it out with a solvent would it start working again. This is a $117 part so it would be worth fixing. Or should I quit being a :stupid: and just pony up for a new one. BTW the car does stutter and miss when cold but runs very nice when warm. Thanks