DatsunZsRule

I won't voice my opinion about zcar.com because I have nothing nice to say about that site which is why I left there a long time ago but I digress. I agree with Alex 240Z & Carl. Crazy immature, stupid S.O.B's like that are not worth taking a chance with your life or wrecking your Z. People like that behind the wheel of a motor vehicle is about as bad as a mass murderer running loose with a loaded gun IMO. STAY THE HELL AWAY from them and don't even let them get to you which you did allow to happen. When I come in contact with someone similar on the roadways, I just ignor there presents and let them go. You learn after yrs. of driving not to even let idiots like that bother you. Just consider the source

You'll get a lot of different opinions on this question as everyone is passionate about the certain brands they use. For me it's nothing but Redline in my transmission and differential

Whats even more funny is: It needs the old gas ran out of it, I put new gas and cleaner in it so far. LOL If only it was that simple

Yeah, I know of Tyson from way back when I used to be over at zcar.com Never met him in person but seems like a real nice guy. He should be able to figure it out for you. Tell him DZR says hi when you see him.

Correct KenshinX. I'm sorry but Haynes manuals are crap 156324 is wrong. Its 153624 like I said before. Do a search here if you don't believe me. It's been answered on here hundreds of times. But anyways glad you were able to locate good info from a factory manual. That will help you a lot to get to the bottom of your problem. Hope you figure it out. Sorry I can't be of more help but I'm pretty far away from you

well you could run tests at the Transister Ignition Unit connector with your meter but you don't have an FSM correct?

Let me guess, you took off all the wires at the same time and couldn't remember which one went where and your firing order is now screwed up? or am I wrong? If so it's 1 5 3 6 2 4

The best thing to do instead of playing the guessing game which is expensive would be to perform all of the test procedures at the 35 pin connector for the ECU which is listed in the FSM with a multimeter. performing these tests will get you pointed in the right direction to what the cause is. Thats my best suggestion. Hopefully you own a meter and a FSM

get that sh!t cleaned out of the cowl area the best you can. Thats what causes rust in there. Many Z restorers that find cancer (rust) in the cowl area will walk away and keep looking for another Z because severe rust in the cowl area pretty much means the car is beyond repair so definately attend to that A.S.A.P. Now about your other issues- Once you get that cable properly grounded and you've made sure all electrical connections are clean and tight along with your new Battery cables, try it out and see if all of the above have corrected the problem. Sure sounds like a case of dirty electrical connections or loose ground connections to me. I doubt it's got anything to do with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve because think about it, thats not going to make your charge light come on, then the car dies out and after a while then it works again and starts. Just my thoughts. Good luck to you.

ooops Sorry for the double post. Not sure how this happened

I have my original early 5 speed with a 3.9 rear end and I love it comes in handy when a$$holes don't want to let you on the highway :devious::devious:

I think I'm sold on sblakes offer but thanks to all that have replied.

aahh I see

As you can clearly see, my Z is in mint condition. I don't need or want an extra hood laying around just for one vent. All she needs is a replacement vent, have the body shop paint the replacement vent, bring it home and install it and done. If the availability became that bad for the factory vents that it required getting a whole hood, I'd just settle for the ones MSA has. On the camera question- Of course it's digital I have an Olympus D-540 Zoom. Bought it about a year ago and I'm very happy with it.

How many beers did you have when posting this??? did you mean 2007?

Yeah, I know they are no longer available If I have no luck finding a good factory set, then I may have to look at getting the ones from MSA

Thought I'd ask around here to see if any of you fellow Z'ers possibly have any extra 77-78 hood vents that you may be able to sell. The drivers side one on my hood has one corner that sticks up as you can see in my photo. It's driving me nuts The heat/age finally got to it and the plastic piece broke which is common on these so I'm sure I'm going to have a hell of a time finding one. MSA offers those new style alternative ones but I'd much prefer the factory ones if I can find them. Thanks to whoever is able to help or offer tips where to find them.

Well I think both are the correct answers. Yes some came from the factory with the slot capped off and some came solid without it too because my 1977 280Z is Stock & original and mine does NOT have this slot your talking about. Mine is all solid and smooth there. No slot with a plastis cap. Apparently Datsun must have used both

"The pickle fork can be rented from autozone right?" I own mine so I'm not sure if you can rent them or not from Auto Zone? Best thing to do would be to call Auto Zone and ask.

Me personally I voted for 5 speed manual not only because thats what I have in my Z, but because you gotta love that extra gear on the highway :D Yeah, I'm a manual trans. guy. Not only they are much more fun to drive, but they do make the Z quicker because they are lighter, you do get better gas mileage with a manual (every little helps with the prices now days ) and another thing I love is that they are a hell of a lot easier to work on :laugh: Just my opinion.

Dust Bellows???? Thats a new one to me I'm guessing they are talking about the Ball Joint boots? Mine had the original 1977 parts so they were pretty worn out. It does make a big difference. It's easy for me to say that they are not bad to do because I know how to and have the right tools to do it. Are you going to do ball joints as well? Sounds like your debating about wheather to do it yourself or not? That depends What do you have for tools? You will need a good pickle fork set for starters and all though many have done this job using a regular hammer to pound on the pickle fork, an air hammer is a must in my opinion as it will make the job 10 times easier to separate knuckle arm & Ball joint assembly. Same goes for tie Rod ends. Also a good pry bar for when you have to separate Transverse link from bottom end of strut, a torque wrench, an impact gun or breaker bar if you don't have air ect. Let us know what you decide to do and I as well as others that have done this job will chime in and help you get started. Best of luck

"This is not a job you want to do often." I've had mine apart and in my opinion I don't think it was that difficult just takes a little time and patients but I suppose your right on how you wouldn't want to be doing it often so why would you not want to use new clamps and plastic holders?? I have to agree what the FSM says. seems silly to me if your going the extra length of putting all new injectors in why would anyone NOT install new hose clamps and plastic holders? It's what I call Cheap Insurance. but hey thats just my opinion. Not trying to be a smart a$$

Also if your going to go the extra distance and replace all of the injectors, make sure you get new 0 rings top and bottom and new plastic holders. Kinda common sence but thought I'd mention it

78 280zcar, yep, sounds like they didn't even balance your tires. That's something that must be performed after mounting tires. As for your abnormal tire wear on the outside edges. Yes, thats an alignment issue. NOT camber. It's the Toe-In thats out of adjustment. This adjustment is done by loosening the side rod lock nut and adjust the length of the side rod correctly. Correct Length between boot and siderod lock nut is 37.9 mm. Adjust that and you should be set. (Sorry I don't have a photo) Your front tires are probably sitting like this \ / not to that extream but you get the point I just recently replaced all my Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends with new factory ones and I got my Z aligned perfect myself. It's not hard really if you know what your doing for example knowing where exactly the start and end points are when measuring and knowing the correct measurement listed in the FSM. If it's so bad that it requires a 4 wheel alignment like sblake is talking about then going to a shop is necessary.

Yep, Wasn't able to do much this weekend. Kept her safe in her garage My plan this weekend was to wash and wax it but the weather didn't allow that oh well next weekend Still need to clean off finger prints that I got on my rims from when I did the ball joints and tie rod ends last weekend :laugh: