DatsunZsRule

Well if you had 1 or more injectors leaking, you'd have issues with a cold engine as well so I personally doubt that but a fuel pressure test would be a good thing to do if you have the equipment to do so like I have. That kit was about $400.00 with the discount I got from the Snap-On guy at work. If you shop around though you could probably find one that will serve your needs for less. I still think it sounds like a Thermotime Switch issue possibly but I'm not one to play the guessing game and replace parts I don't have to so test it first with the procedure I listed above to be damn sure first. Also you say "yeah the cold start isn't that big of a deal to me since I really only drive the Z in warm weather... the coldest it gets when I need it is like 55/60 ... you know... fall/early spring etc." Yes it is a big deal. 55/60 degrees it should be in use. Nissan Motors designed this "set up" for a reason when the engine is cold and warming up. If found to be faulty, fix it right so the system can operate properly like it's suppose to and in return, give you the best reliability. My opinion Best of luck to you Matt.

Looks like it was a lot of fun. too bad the weather had to be crap Glad to hear you enjoyed yourself though.

Here is the test procedure on the Thermotime Switch. I posted this last year for another member here. Thermotime Switch test: You will need a thermometer and an ohmmeter. 1) Disconnect ground cable on batt. 2) Disconnect Thermotime switch connector 3) Remove switch from T Stat housing 4) Dip the heat-sensing part of switch into cool water 50 degrees F. 5) when the Thermotime switch is about the same temp as water (50 degrees) measure the resistance between terminal numbers 45 and 46. The resistance should be about 78 6) Now increase your cool water temperature on your stove until it is more than 77 degrees then check continuity between terminal numbers 45 and 46. If your ohmmeter reading increases from about 78 to infinite, circuit is OK.

"The thermotime switch get it's initial signal from the starter and only for 8-9 seconds and only if the engine is under certain temp." Right, and if the Thermotime switch is faulty, the bimetal contact in the switch will remain closed (Grounding Cold Start Valve) even with warm coolant temperature correct? I'm not trying to argue but I've seen similar issues and a new Thermotime switch solved the problem. I'd for sure give the switch a test to make certain it's OK.

Hello, What it sounds like to me is possibly a bad Thermotime Switch. I've explained this before to others. It's location is in the T stat housing. When the coolant temp. increases and reaches above a certain degrees, the thermotime switch is suppose to break ground for the Cold Start Valve. When coolant temp. is below that certain degree (Can't remember exactly what the certain temperature is off the top of my head, sorry) The Thermotime switch will then provide ground again to the Cold Start Valve to inject that extra fuel needed when engine is cold. Make sence? Sounds to me like the Thermotime Switch is not functioning properly and it's grounding the Cold Start Valve even when the coolant temperature is ABOVE the degrees shown in the FSM which is why she is running rich when you are restarting it after having it warmed up, then as you drive for while, it gets better as the extra fuel gets burned off or gets better when cold because thats the time the Cold Start Valve is suppose to operate. That would be my best guess from what your describing. Good luck.

First thing I'd do is perform a fuel pressure test. This requires an expensive fuel pressure test kit however and I'm sure you probably don't own one. Are you absolutely positive you eliminated every possible leak? I'd double check things again because it sure sounds like a leak to me. If you had no fuel leak, you wouldn't be able to smell fuel. Check under the hood and inspect all the rubber fuel hoses that connect the fuel pipes, the rubber hoses on all the injectors, hoses on the fuel filter ect. They can have the smallest hair line crack that you may not be able to see and could be leaking or tired out hose clamps that are no longer working like they should. (ALWAYS use new clamps whenever replacing hoses) I'd double check what I mentioned above to start. How is that fuel filter? The fuel filter tends to be ignored by many and more often than not turns out to be the culprit as well. Also you say you did plugs, wires,cap, and rotor. Make certain all of your wires are in place. I've seen many times where the rubber boot is on the cap so it looks like it's plugged in but the actual wire end connecter is not "clicked" in secure. Also using a dist. cap thats a different brand from the rotor will create problems as well. Best of luck

Yeah, I hear ya. They sure don't make it clear do they? Well, we know it's purpose and how to adjust it if necessary I guess thats all that counts

The rare times I've seen Automatic 280Z's do not have the Dash Pot and the Factory Service Manual is not going to lie either so I have to agree it's got to be on Manuals only. If your Automatic models have it then possibly the previous owners did some parts swapping from a manual model? My guess anyways. Also the B.C.D.D. on an automatic model is different from a manual model. I can't remember if the adjustment procedure is the same.

That poor car is mess. The seller says "This is not a car you can hop in and drive. needs fluid changes, inspection, and maybe more." Looks to me like this dude started this project and due to not knowing what the hell he was doing, screwed it up big time and now he's trying to unload it. God help the next poor owner that has to straighten out that mess HE made.

Also under "Engine Tune Up" in the FSM look at page ET-9 It does say (Manual Transmission Models Only) for Dash Pot Adj.

Well I found a replacement after chasing around to 4 different places Apparently there are 3different types of metric and our Z's have to be the "Hard to find" ones. I just got done with the project. Here is the finished pictures. Wish I had some before shots but I was too busy. The originals were so shot it was terrible.

Thats the reply I was hoping for Thanks again Chris.

Ok, another Question- One of the bolts thats secures the ball joint assembly to Transverse link broke on me :mad: I was finally able to find a replacement however it's just a little longer (See picture by ball joint rubber boot) Whats your guys thoughts? Looks like it will be fine to me as it doesn't hit anything.

I too am a big Courtesy Nissan fan. I have boughten a lot from them and they have always taken good care of me. They have also given me discounts too I'm sure Nismo Parts that Stephen mentioned is good too.

=Resurected280= That is what I used was a picle fork set. Works awesome My Pickle fork set comes with 2 adapters. I can thread any of my forks to one adapter for normal hammering, or I can screw on the other adapter that has the end to go into an air Hammer which is what I had to do. Stupid me trying to be a big shot and do the hard way first All I can say is that Air Hammer I bought was spendy but worth every damn dime. All I had to do was hold the trigger for like 3 or 4 seconds and that knuckle arm was off Reason I started this thread was because I got freaked out. thought I left my air hammer at work Here is the set I have:

never mind I broke out my air hammer Popped the sucker right off

Ok, I'm in the middle of this wonderful project :mad: and I am having a bastard of a time trying to get the knuckle arm separated from the lower ball joint. any help is much appreciated

Sounds like his wife wrote up the description ROFLLOL

"What on the caliper are you planning to lube with said grease? Yes, there are lubing points on the 280Z calipers too. Look in your FSM if you have one. Brake System Fig. BR-14 (Applying Grease) on page BR-9. Also shows where to grease on shims as well.

Yep, I know all about that stuff I'm doing pretty much a Refresh of the front end parts. I'm replacing both Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends , Rotors, pads, new brake hardware kit, bearing repack job ect. All parts are factory Genuine Nissan too which is all I use I use NLGI #2 GC-LB Moly Fortified Grease for the bearing repack job. This is the grease recommended by Datsun in the FSM. I'm just curious as to what everyone here that has done front brakes on there Z's have used on the calipers. Thanks Arne, I'll have to check out that Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease.

To those that have done the front brakes on there Z's, What type/brand grease did you use on the moving parts of the caliper and anti squeel shims? It's got to be something that can hold up through extream heat. Thanks in advance to anyone that can tell what worked best for them.

Well whats the test results on the alternator and Battery? sounds to me thats part of the cause?

This is the best icon for your comment- You obviously have never seen a nice example of a 280Z

Instructions are printed right on the can of Sea Foam and listed on there website too if you can't find PrOxLaMuS© video. http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

First of all, how are you getting 35 PSI? "I am having a problem starting it. I have to pump the pedal to get it running and it will not idle now. I have to keep reving it to get it going." You said you had about 30 @ idle before in your second response which is low. If your Z is Stock, it should be maintaining 36.3 @ idle. Do you smell gas at all? Sounds like you got a Fuel Leak somewhere. Check all your rubber fuel lines for any cracks or tired out fuel hose clamps that could be leaking under the hood and under the car where the fuel pump is. Another possible cause could be a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. The Fuel Injected Z's will not tollerate any vac. leaks. Something as simple as a loose oil cap will cause running problems so check for any possible vac. leaks as well. Check your A.F.M. Rubber boots for cracks when looking for vac. leaks. If the A.F.M. boots are cracked, Unmetered air enters which fouls air/fuel mixture because the E.C.U. is operating off of what it's receiving from the A.F.M. (How far the air is moving the flap) and the E.C.U. is unable to compute the extra unmetered air which is what fouls everything up. Hope I made sence. It's tough to explain Best of luck and don't give up. Patience is the Key