DatsunZsRule

This does not add up here man??? The smashed Z is a Black/Gold edition 280ZX and the ones you show as the "after resto pics" is a first gen 2+2 Z?????

If the new sucker, I mean owner of that poor Z comes on here, I have some crap in my shed to sell him

Glad to hear it was something simple

All I can do is just shake my head on that one. God help the poor bastard that bought it :stupid:

Thats fine if you don't agree. I know from experience that says otherwise. I had an old winter beater with high miles with NO leaks. I thought one day what the hell, I'll try synthetic even though it had high miles to help it start easier in the cold even though I knew of the risk and sure as sh!t what a mistake. After about a couple oil changes that poor car started pissing oil leaks like crazy. First it was the oil pan gasket so I replaced that. Then not long after that the valve cover gasket started pissing oil like crazy ect. later on I noticed the motor wasn't running like it used to due to the synthetic loosening up the old sludge and creating problems internally in the motor. That motor was strong and in good running shape when I had the regular and NO, I never "Beat the crap out of it" as I depended on it for work. This is just a fact wheather you want to agree or not. Ask any Auto Tech about starting Synthetic in an older engine with high miles. They will tell you NO for the same reasons. Why because I usually hit 3 months before I hit 3,000 miles so in that case, spending extra on Synthetic would be a waste of money. Like I stated, "Honestly, Oil has come such a long way compaired to what it was in the 70's. Regular oil today is damn good oil as long as you change it every 2,500-3,000" So you don't see how in some cases it can be more harm than good when it's used in an older car that has never used it and a higher mileage car? Thats fine man, go ahead and try it out. Hope your car has better luck then my poor winter car did. EXACTLY!

You'll know if your ball joints have gone south When those are shot if you hit just the smallest bump in the road you'll hear the front end making a noticeable clunkity clunk sound. It will make you cringe I agree with the above along with checking the condition of the driveshaft as well. I think it was richard1? that was just recently asking about a similar issue as you. Best of luck.

I personally am a big Valvoline guy. I use the Valvoline Full Synthetic (SynPower) in my daily driver and regular Valvoline in my Z and I'm also a big Redline fan. Redline is all I use in my Transmission and Differential. Synthetic is without question the best ONLY if the car is a newer car, or It has been used religiously since the car was yung with lower miles. This is why I run just the regular Valvoline in my Z. The previous owner of my Z ran nothing but regular in it so for me, synthetic wasn't an option. Why? Because synthetic has higher detergents and if you start using it in an older car that has ran nothing but regular motor oil, it can loosen up any old sludge build up and can clog oil passages in the motor, cause oil seals to leak ect. My Z is a low mileage car but I just prefer not to take the chance. Plus it's only driven on nice sunny summer weekends only so really synthetic would be a waste. Honestly, Oil has come such a long way compaired to what it was in the 70's. Regular oil today is damn good oil as long as you change it every 2,500-3,000 miles. True, Synthetic starts much better in cold weather, protects better in extream heat conditions ect. but in some cases it can be more harm than good when it's used in an older car that has never used it and a higher mileage car for the reasons I listed above. weight- I run 10W30 in my Z. It's slightly thinner than the 10W40 which is better IMO because it reaches the bearing surfaces more quickly and revs up faster, and will provide a little better oil pressure too and It's always held up great in the summer heat in my Z as well. Every time I check my oil she's always good and full Anyways this is just MY $0.02 cents worth on the topic. Everyone has there own opinion about which brand oil is the best to use, which weight is the best ect. so no offence to anyone who has different opinions

hmm. yeah, that is a tuff choice because you can't go wrong with any L Series block really (L24 L26 or L28) All are bullet proof motors IMO. No way would I ever consider replacing a good running Nissan OHC L Series engine for a V8 conversion. (No offence to all that have done it. Just my $0.02 cents) I guess if your looking to bore out any L Series block and your big into racing it then I'd say stick to your original plan on the L28 with new oversized pistons. Your second option isn't a bad way to go either. It would for sure be one hell of a quick performer on the streets. How big of a performer you want your Z to be really depends on the thickness of your wallet

Thanks Kenny Glad to be back online with all you fellow Z Nuts About the FSM, if you have a difficult time finding one in good shape, Courtesy Nissan sells them on CD ROM. Just thought I'd point that out as another alternative

OK so you say this vibration started AFTER you installed new U Joints and it was fine before?? It's got to be something with the new U Joints then. Double check that all the bolts are torqued to factory specs as mentioned by Ken. Plus I wouldn't rule out the drive shaft itself. They need to be handled extreamly careful as it doesn't take much to knock them out of balance. Also check to make sure the drive shaft is clean because anything like undercoating overspray, mud ect. can cause them to be out of balance. Best of luck.

It's possible. Check the the Drive Shaft tube for any visable damage like dents. If it does then you will obviously need to replace it. Another thing to look at are your tires. Tires that are out of balance will cause this as well or poor tread wear.

I don't disagree on getting a motor to practice on however, your smart to put that $150.00 into your current motor that you say is not yet completed so you at least have a Z to drive then later on look for another L28 to "Practice" on. Another thing I think would be best for you is if you don't have a Factory Service Manual then make that priority #1. You'll be lost without one. Then read it thoroughly first before you start tearing apart the motor to learn about the engine inside and out first. Just my opinion.

ALL 75-80 Z/ZX's had dished pistons Stock. If yours does not then it's got a 81-83 N/A 81-83 TURBO's on the other hand had dished like the 75-80 to lower compression. "So which one is actually better? Dished right?" Well performance wise for a Non turbo actually the flattop pistons create a higher quench mixture and allow for higher performance combustion chambers so the flat top pistons are what you want if your looking for a performance upgrade. Dished were usually used to lower emissions.

Hello all forgive me as I haven't been here in a while but if memory serves me correctly, wasn't it you that made the mistake of NOT using a Cam Chain tensioner tool when you made an attempt to change out your Valve Seats in your current engine and lost your chain in the block which resulted in you having to remove the front cover???? And if I remember right I think you said that a neighbor was going to give you a hand putting it back togeather. If I'm correct and you and your neighbor installed new valve seats and were able to get it put back togeather correctly then may I ask why are you looking for another motor??? If you just got finished doing the valve job and your motor is strong then I see no reason to spend $150.00 on another motor that is no different than the one you currently have. Yes, NO different. 1975-1980 Z/ZX L28 were all the same. #N42, Dished Pistons and all put out 135 HP NET. The N/A 81-83 ZX's (F54 flat top pistons, siamesed cylinders) put out 145 NET. Datsun had to make these improvements to carry the heavier ZX weight so if your looking to swap for better performance then your going to want to find the 81-83 L28. Plus an engine not being ran since 1989 is not exactly a good thing either like Arne stated Good luck with whatever you decide to do

Factory rebuilt ones for $36.00 each? My opinion- doesn't sound like a bad deal. They claim a lifetime replacement warranty so what the hell go for it. They sound like a good second choice if you can't afford to go with brand new ones. You will probably have to install new 5/16 high pressure fuel hoses on them. I doubt they will come with those like new ones do. since you have spent $3000.00 on the rebuild, I hope you would have new Plastic holders for the injectors as well.

Yep, It's an expensive time of year Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't you have loss of pressure WITH the adjustable regulator to begin with??? I didn't know about your Aftermarket fuel rail. Maybe the adjustable one is better since your system isn't exactly Stock. either way correct the leak wherever it's coming from and reinstall the adjustable FPR since it works better with your set up. Should hopefully take care of it

For me it seems to work the other way- When I'm enjoying myself time flies and when I'm not, time goes slower than molasses Enjoy your Xmas break

Hello 78 280zcar, So your having problems with loss of fuel pressure huh? I personally don't think the FPR. is the problem here. You stated that you went back to a stock one. Was it really a stock one??? or aftermarket?? If you used a new OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator then I highly doubt it would be faulty. Not that it can't happen I suppose but the chances on that are slim to none. Plus you said you tried 2 other ones and you still had the same problem??? Fuel Pressure Regulators very rarely go bad to begin with. It can happen but it's not common. Your smart to go back with a stock one. Adjustable ones are nice if you have a Z thats modified that demands more fuel pressure. On a stock fuel injected 280Z it's suppose to have 36.3 @ idle and it's suppose to maintain this after you shut it down. since the L Jetronic system maintains 36.3 after shut down, it provides superior heat resistance and Vapor lock should not happen. Sounds like to me you have a very small fuel leak somewhere in the system. Very well could be one of the injectors. I'm sure it's not that big of a deal. Could just be something simple like worn out 0 rings. Take a look at those. they can wear out over time. Courtesy Nissan carries both the top and bottom 0 rings Top 0 rings are $10.62 for 6 and bottoms are the same for 6 Do you smell any fuel at all when you have it running? Best of luck.

Thought I'd stop by and give a shout I'm off of work now for the holidays. Woohoo . Thought it would never get here ;-)

Thanks everyone for all the nice remarks. Don't worry, I'll be back later on (Not sure when) but I will be back Thats right about winter and road repair in the summer Ken Every year I have to map out which roads are good to go cruising on with my beautiful Z I can hardly wait for that first spring rain to clean up the streets and get my Z back out for summer. Mike, Stephen, Arne, Ed, Kenny, Jim, Enigma, Rick and others- you all as well including your families have a happy holidays.

Well mostly time is the biggest issue with work and personal stuff on weekends. Stephen is correct on how there can be a select few that drive you nuts but thats not the big reason. I usually ignore the B.S.

Arne, I'll for sure try to Always love helping another fellow Z'er when I can.

Thanks Stephen. I too kinda get fed up with some of the crap however I have to say this site is the best compared to others I've visited. I may come back some day. Wo knows??? Damn right us 280Z'ers have to stick togeather :laugh: You and your family also have a happy and safe holidays.

I'm thinking of taking a break away from the site for a while for personal reasons. I'll always have my Z Car and will never never never part from it and Im eager to get it back out in the spring when the weather gets nice again so I can take it out for joy rides again and work on it I just get very busy at work and my cars and other personal stuff usually take up my weekends Just thought I'd let everyone know so no one thinks I'm dead Take care all,

No, I agree you should do it. Might as well since you got all the coolant drained. Just was pointing out that it needs to be serviced more frequently and not only when replacing a radiator. You don't have a factory Service Manual? I'd get one as soon as you can. Courtesy has them on CD ROM. Try a search on this site and if you still can't find any instructions, then I could probably send you an e-mail with some details on "How to". I won't be able to tonight though. Have to work in the morning Good luck