DatsunZsRule

BP6ES with a .040 gap. They should be pregapped but I always double check mine. Couple times I had 1 or two not properly gapped. Doesn't take much for them to get bumped during shipping which can mess up the gap. Also I recommend a light coat of anti-seize on the threads.

Your right that makes sence

yeah had to share that one. Would have been more funny though if that clown got his robe hung up in the chain

Selling your Datsuns In Favor of a 05-06 Pontiac GTO :disappoin Did you bump your head while working under one of your Datsuns? :stupid: Doesn't sound like the stephen I thought I knew Oh well ya gotta do what ya gotta do. I think you should at least hang onto your 280Z for your fun hobby car. Now that your retired, you'll be able to really enjoy it.

http://www.hotrodsandclassics.net/FunnyVideos/openinginternationalburnouts.htm The last one cracked me up

Thanks again for your information Marty. Yeah, I was planning on getting the Speed Bleeder Bag & Hose Combo with my order. If I read on there site correctly, the sealant should already be on the bleeder screws new. Still good to have the brush on thread sealant though for rebleeding in the future. By the way I know Datsun used two different kinds of Master Cylinders on the Z's (Tokico and Nabco) I have the Nabco M/C. in my Z. Is that what your Z has too??? Just want to make sure we have the same set up for when I order my stuff. :paranoid:

Well not sold at the exact same time. Correct me if I'm wrong but if my memory serves me right the Zap editions were 1977 and Black Pearl's were 1978 Correct?

Sweeeeeet man Thanks again Marty According to there website the ones you listed for the master cylinder (P/N SB7100S) are slightly shorter length wise than the ones they list for the rear drums (P/N SB7100) Sound right? Just want to confirm that they are different than the ones from the rear drums. Overall Length in., (mm) SB7100S 1.19, (30.22) SB7100 (rear drums) 1.38, (35.15)

I feel sorry for them both. Can't decide which one is the ugliest.

:eek: :hurt: Do yourself and your wallet a favor and keep looking Whats the highest your willing to spend on one? Are you willing to do the work yourself on it?

Thats what I've been trying to find out. What is the Part No. for the brake master cylinder??? I tried E-mailing Speedbleeder.com and they never answered my E-mail. Do you remember what they are?? I too would like to get them for the master cylinder.

"I think he was actually quoting me there." I realize that Matt but I too was going along with your comment not taking notice that it was "On" position instead of being "Start" Either way I'm done responding. Hope all is going Ok for the member who started this thread. (avbad12)

Your right, The start position What the hell was I thinking :stupid::stupid: Good catch

Yeah, it's the same way here in Minnesota as well. Not many classic 1st gen. Z's around. I have to laugh at these people here when they see me on the road because the majority of them don't even know what the hell kind of car it is and they look out there car window at me as either I go by or they go by with there jaws dropped like WOW, what kind of car is that??? One time I was sitting at a stop light and some guy pulled up next to me on my drivers side and he had his girfriend or wife yell out the window to me "Hey what kind of car is that? right as she was saying that I was pulling away because the light turned green. (For me to know and for you to find out) :devious::devious:

"I hate debating wisdom, I really do, but like you, I just don't want to see someone chasing after a gremlin that isn't there." Don't sweat it man, we all misunderstand sometimes. It's easy to do especially here because we can't talk face to face. I don't disagree at all which is why I stated "About the best we can do without actually being in the garage with you is list possible causes for you to test/check." Didn't mean to take your reply to heart man but I'm just trying to add anything that could possibly be related to any of the issues he's having that he can go through and test. My opinion is if you have a FSM and are able to test components yourself (Process of elimination) that won't cost you anything and if it turns out not to be the cause then great. It's one more thing now you can rule out as being the cause. avbad12, let us all know how you come out and what the cause was

Excuse me if I read his thread wrong but I thought he was having restarting issues as well which is why I listed the thermotime switch as ONE of the possible causes. "when the key is in the 'on' position, the thermotime/cold-start circuit is open whether or not the engine is cold" Obviously but what I said is true. The Thermotime Switch DOES provide ground to the Cold Start Valve for it to operate and if the switch is malfunctioning causing the Cold Start Valve not to operate like it's suppose to WHILE CRANKING then yes, it could be PART of his restarting problem. I know as I've had that problem on mine and sure enough, I tested my Thermotime Switch and it tested out bad. Replaced it and problem solved but what do I know

First off, if you don't have a FSM to go through the testing procedures, you will be banging your head against the wall trying to solve it not to mention throwing $$ at things that are not the cause because as you have probably figured out, there are more than just a couple things that can cause a problem such as yours. About the best we can do without actually being in the garage with you is list possible causes for you to test/check. Another thought that comes to my mind is possibly a faulty Thermotime Switch. The Thermotime Switch is what provides the ground for the Cold Start Valve to make it operate. Once the coolant warms up to a certain degrees, the Thermotime switch should no longer be providing the ground to shut off the Cold Start Valve when that extra fuel is no longer needed so if the Thermotime switch is not functioning properly then that could easily cause an issue like your having so I would look into that as a possible cause.

I haven't purchased them yet. I Haven't been able to even get my Z out of winter storage yet but I will be for sure getting them. The more I read up on them, the more I like them. Anything like these that can make work easier for me, I'm sold I listed the part #'s in post #5 (SB1010 for the front disk brakes and SB7100 for the rear drums.) Here is the direct link for ordering http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/ I think I'm going to add the Speed Bleeder Bag & Hose Combo to my order when I do buy them

Welcome Papa Deuce You've made a good choice getting a Z You for sure came to the right Online Z Club. Have fun with your newly purchased 280Z

Mine too is still napping as well. Still waiting till the roads get a little cleaner. When I am able to get my Z back out (Hopefully soon) Gotta do my spring maintenance to it. Many roads here in MN are like driving on railroad ties too. There are really two seasons here in MN. Winter and road Construction

Lookin sharp man Congratulations and welcome to the site.

Cool. Thanks again for your responses guys. Arne - Good to know for sure about the end of the hose not having to be submerged with the speed bleeders. Thats kinda what I figured being that the check valve closes as the brake pedal is released. Pop's Z (Mike) - Happy to hear that they have served you well and that you like them. I looked up the Pt. No. last night on there website. For others who maybe interested in them they are SB1010 for the front disk brakes and SB7100 for the rear drums. (Haven't found anything for the master cylinder yet. Probably will have to shoot them an E-Mail) beandip (Gary) - Thanks for sharing your method for bleeding the brakes with the Kit you mentioned from Harbor Freight. Other options are always appreciated. On speedbleeder.com they say that now they have a thread sealer available for the threads for when the existing thread sealant thats already on them new gets old and wears out over time. Must be there correction for the seeping issue over time.

I gotta do a front brake job on my Z when I'm able to get her out of winter storage (Hopefully soon ) and I'm liking what I've been reading on them so far. With these Speed Bleeders with the check valve that closes once you release the brake pedal, is it still required to have the opposite end of the hose submerged in brake fluid??? Also I want to start fresh with new fluid so I'm going to want to bleed the master cylinder first. Can these speed bleeders be used at the master cylinder as well or not??? Thanks in advance guys. I'm new to these speed bleeder screws

Hey I'm on there now Thank you Arne

Arne, if you want you can go ahead and pin DatsunZsRule up there for me in the St.Paul area of Minnesota.