Brandy

I got a pair (front and rear) from Cybersanford. He couldn't guarantee if they worked perfectly, and I haven't had the time to check them out, but it's a start.

the poor car looks as if it's crying....

MSA may have the part but you have to call them first; Victoria British also carries them. Junkyards and cars being parted out are the other sources. Check with some of the used/new parts dealers that are usually linked to this site as well as other Z-oriented ones. I was able to get a regulator in remarkably good condition from one of the used parts dealers on this site.

Thanks. I think the decals can still be found in MSA sports, but I'm going to have to re-do the photo. I'm not sure if I'll replace the decals after I get the car repainted (paints looks beautiful in the photo, but up close it looks as if it came out of a giant bottle of nail polish, with glops as proof). Took the car last week to the local PepBoys to see if it indeed needed a wheel alignment, but after making me wait for 2 hours to tell me that they couldn't do the alignment since they didn't have 'the conversion numbers' (this after I told them it was a Datsun-look-under-Nissan), and they somehow cracked the entire airdam getting it on the lift. Hence my adversion to the local shops... But as for the loud brakes, that, along with insulation and the wiring and some things that are missing in the engine compartment (hoses and stuff, which the FSM doesn't elaborate), are pretty much the last major things before I can finally think I can take a break....for now......

Hi All - I know that this topic has definitely been discussed, I just can't find any references. I have a '70 240Z, 4 spd, still going through the entire car fixing all the stuff the PO 'customized' (as in the front and rear wiring harnesses, but that's a topic for another section of this site). For a car that I found out after the fact had spent the past 15 years being started up only occasionally, it drives well (thanks to patient me, a great carb remanufacturer in FL, and lots of duct tape), but the brakes are LOUD, no matter the speed, nor how long or short the drive (the brakes work, thankfully). It's actually kind of embarrassing. The brakes are 'supposedly' new (as per PO), but I need to know if anyone has photos of what the brakes should look like with the wheels off. Not trusting any mechanic within a 200 mile radius, and not having a garage, but rather a carport to do the work, I will need to pull tires and look at what is presently unknown territory to me, and to do so quickly. From past threads, here and on other sites, squealing tends to happen if pins adn/or shims aren't replaced with brakes, and so forth. And I was wondering if the noise could be because of the size of the tires (13s on dealer-optioned rims) or way the tires 'look' on the car - they lean outward (bottom further 'out'), but there is no uneven wear on the tires and the car doesn't drift if I let go of the steering wheel. Sorry for the admitedly 'duh!' naive questions, but I'm not mechanically inclined (yet) and I wish I could be more specific. Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.

I had to replace the window regulator for my Z a fwe months ago - first thing is duct tape the glass itself as high up as you can - or remove it completely. I used a copy of one of my VC catalogs as a schematic for the window regulator (an FSM also helps): I'm not a mechanic, so my 'lingo' of mechanical stuff is rather...unique, but bear with me. The bottom guide is actually the easiest of the rollers. Just to the right of the bottom right access hole you will see a set of Bolts and screws. Reach inside the opening, and you will find a slot of sorts being held in place by the screws. Fit the upper two rollers sections of the regulator (if not already done); loosen or remove the lower guide, and fit THAT onto the roller, then fit the guide back onto the door, tighten all bolts. We also took that opportunity to clean and grease all the rollers. Good luck.

I'm 5'3", and thankfully used to sitting 'back' when I drive, since I have the seat pushed all the way forward and still can barely reach the pedals. WIDE is another story. My husband bodybuilds, and when he sits in the car the door hits in teh arm when he closes it. Biggest snag with this car is getting in and out in a graceful manner (try it with heels and a tight skirt (girls only, unless you guys want to end up in World's Funniest Drivers'.

I took my Series ! '70 240Z, pretty much unmodified to Pep Boys yesterday for a wheel alignment (all four tires look like they're squatting), though I don't have any problems with the steering wheel pulling in either direction. Well, after waiting two hours only to have the guys there tell me they mangled my car's air dam and one of the headlight buckets (I've got an urethane air dam on order which these numbnuts are now going to install for me GRATIS, and I found a set of headlight buckets from a guy in CA, again, to be installed GRATIS), they also tell me that they cannot do the alignment since they haven't 'the conversion figures' for this car. I can't find any info in any of the books I have, and checkign archives is a no-win. Does anyone here know what the numbers or whatever needs to be inputted into the computer at the shop are? I'll be using a different shop than Pep Boys for the alignment, BTW. Any help would, as always, be greatly appreciated. Brandy

Hi Ken - (BTW, Danny says hi). I was able to get a pair of used early 70-72 harnesses online, and with a FSM on its way from Courtesy, hope that it shouldn't be too hard to trace out. The Haynes manual is great, but I've had to teach myself how to read schematics now that hubby (engineer) is away, plus the PO did improvise quite a few of the wires (he actually replaced the wire connecting the ignition module thingy to the distributor with a 4 foot long wire that looked as it came straight from a stereo system.). Needless to say, if the hex I did on him is working, he should have special body parts falling off by now. I'm pretty patient, and have no qualms sitting in the open hatchback for hours tracing wires, or replacing the setup, so hopefully all this poor little car needs is a new necklace of electrics. Otherwise, I'll driver her up to 'visit' your area during the next car club meeting and perhaps you can help....;-)

Makes sense (but then again, I had planned to actually sew the boot in place for my set up once I replace the center console, but I like to do things the lazy way)

I thought so, too. I already checked with Eastwood, and considering the money I've already put into this car, am planning to use their insulation, especially in light of the fact that their insulation is also good against moisture, rust being, of course, the bane of every Z driver.

Thanks. I was just going to pull everything out of the driver's compartment and cover everything, cutting holes for important things, as you suggest (I'm not a mechanic, so my nomenclature for anything automotive tends to be listed under 'stuff'). I want to start working on it this extended weekend. I'll try Eastwood, but was wondering if insulation sold at places like Home Depot and Lowes, the fireproof type, are similar? I notice that both VC and MSA list other uses for their insulation and thought that perhaps the same items could be used for cars?

Hi. I have a '70 240Z which had the original carpeting and padding removed, and when I got it the floor had been painted black (I can assume it was to hide any potential rust), and a new aftermarket carpet kit added, but not attached. Driving this car means that the heat off the road as well as the engine comes into the driver's compartment, making the use of the a/c all but a waste of gas. I'd like to place insulation in the compartment. I know MSA and VC sell kits, but was wondering where the insulation should go (I know, simple question). I plan to add insulation on the floor (of course), and if I feel really ambitious, would remove the seats and place insulation under the seats. But the center console part - is this part also insulated, and if so, any ideas as to high 'up' under the dash, or if special considerations should be made for the fuse box area.

To attach the boot, try some patches of velcro (if carpeting covers the well). Fabric stores carry velcro 'buttons'.

Hi everyone. I have a '70 240Z, manual trans, pretty stock. Prior owner had pretty much neglected it (left it sitting in a garage), then jerryrigged some stuff, painting other stuff black before selling it to an unsuspecting buyer (um..me). Since then, I've had the carbs remanufactured, ingnition coil replaced, voltmeter cleaned up, gas tank dropped and cleaned, and now I'm tackling the electrical stuff (BTW, I'm a Biologist, not a mechanic or engineer, but I'm willing to learn, which is a big reason I got this car). This car runs really nice now, and outside of placing insulation padding under the carpet (that topic is another thread), possibly replacing the air cleaner set (another thread) and replacing the weatherstripping on both windshield and rear hatch when I get the car repainted next year, am pretty much done for now. Except for scary electricals. I have interior lights (replaced all the bulbs under the dash; glad I'm limber and have small hands), front headlights, brake lights, directionals and hazard lights. But when I need the running lights (for nighttime driving), I get nothing, and also don't have the rear side marker lights (but they work for directionals and hazards). And another odd thing, whenever I brake, the front directionals also blink on). I've been tracing the wires, and have been removing the duct tape covering the wires, cleaning the wires and reattaching them. The PO apparently had been given a solder for a present and had gone to town on the wires, but doing a pretty messy job soldering wires together. The harness under the front hood in front of the radiator is a mess. Before he went out to sea, my husband, a maritime engineer, checked all the fuses, replaced some, and had been checking out the wires for voltage. The wires on the steering column switches have also been replaced and soldered together. Any idea where I could be making a spooky process even worse, or am I going the right way, slowly tracing out lines, or should I just get replacement harnesses? I have no problem driving the car as is, but in the instances where I would be out late, driving without taillights at night is not a prospect I relish. I'm debating whether I should just replace both harnesses.