Kerrigan

I was going to replace mine but couldn't find a replacement. Bought a "new" bypass pipe from MSA and the bend at the manifold end is to sharp so the pipes don't match up. Cleaned up the old nipple and am going to re-use the old bypass pipe. The new one has a different bracket as well, with a slot instead of a hole. I suppose one could make their own nipple ... if one could remove the old one. The one on my Z is frozen and I didn't want to take a chance breaking it, then having the nightmare of drilling it out and re-threading the hole.

Sorry for the dup post ... too early in the morning!

When we repainted the color was matched to the original found on the underside of the tool box lids, and another spot where the paint had not weathered. The color to match for 1971 was Nissan 901 Monte Carlo Silver Metallic. We used Sherwin-Williams 3Q SW 45366. It seems to be a very close match.

Our 1971 FairladyZ-L was supposedly made in May 1971, taking a guess at the spread of production numbers for that year. The original fuel Nikki fuel pump is stamped "1501" That would seem to fit the scheme if it is indeed a 5/71 car. What do you think?

I was able to obtain a rebuild kit out of Canada last week, so they are still around.

Thank you. I give it a go on our RHD.

Okay Dave, will do. I'd like to keep the passing light function if at all possible. What is "flipping the harness"? Also wondering about the tail light/parking light harness. This car has two buttons on the center console for turning on low-watt bulbs in the housings. The "parking lights" buttons turn them on for one side, or the other .. or both I guess if one wanted. Would this mess up the tail light relay harness?

Will do, thank you!

Will the harness you make for 1971 240Z for Motorsports work in a 1971 FairladyZ-L (RHD) car? I spoke with Motorsports and they didn't know; suggested I ask you. The Fairlady has a button on the end of the turn signal stalk which blinks the high-beam as a passing light. It sounds like a relay clicks on and off when the button is pressed. MSA didn't know if this would continue to work with the relay harness installed, or if the harness would work. Will it work plug-in or would further modifications be required? Thank you!

Found it. Thanks. Looks like a good kit which will resolve the issue for me.

Okay, I'm dense. What is "MSA" and do they sell the headlight relay kit I need for the 1971 FairladyZ to get the switch-frying problem resolved?

Some subjects never die ...

Continuing with the spring refreshing and tuneup ... getting close to being ready to dash between the raindrops!

I've a stock 1971 FairladyZ and I'm going to try doing it the "book way" and set it at 17 degrees at 750rpm for running with 92 octane fuel. Seems to work out that way if I remember from the last time I set it.

Good luck has it our dash is fine. Wiper arms would be nice ... as would a speedometer cable (shorter than LHD), Hadn't though about steering rack ... guess they are gone by now.

I assume there are a number of S30 Z owners in RHD countries, like Japan and Australia. What do they do for parts unique to the RHD version of the S30 240Z? I heard of one source, a shop in Japan somewhere called "Jalopy" but didn't have any luck getting any replies. How do you keep them running and street-legal?

Great car! For $11,000 it too can look like this ;-) That's about what we have into the refresh; total paint, new OEM parts, etc., etc. Worth it! We took Best of Class in 2008 Portland Roadster Show!

Does any one know if these "new OEM" arms are available anywhere for the 1971 FairladyZ?

Not selling, just sharing information about a 1971 FairladyZ-L that is mostly correct.

Our 1971 doesn't have the red markers; it was imported without them in the early 1970s and has always been licensed in Oregon without a problem ... or an engine bay id plate which was "lost" during a repaint three decades ago ...

Our 1971 FairladyZ-L has the original L20 engine, not an "L20A" ....

There do appear to be some things that it appears someone added to this car. We have one known to be correct in most aspects as a JDM. No bumper overriders, no decals like that on air cleaner, and those louvers in the small doors next to the hood are not stock. At least not by our car, nor the pictures in the Nissan books. And of course those are aftermarket wheels. Radiator hoses are aftermarket replacements as are the clamps. Ours is appraised at well over the $20k he is asking. There are not many of these left in the USA and very few have been "restored". It can be done if you are willing to chase parts all over the world.

Took the rear brake drums off, sanded them, reversed sides, cleaned up the shoes, and all is well now. No rubbing sound. I think some of the brake grease may have overheated and dropped on the drum causing a discoloration.

Should the shaft have any side-to-side play in it at all when one grasps the hub and tries to move it up and down, or in and out?

Any way to quickly determine if it's a bearing problem?