Kerrigan

The Fairlady Z left rear brake started making that "metal grinding noise" so I took the drums off both side. The shoes look great, all the hardware looks fine, no scoring on the drums ... any clue what might be making it off and on? Something gets in there perhaps, like a small rock or something? Are the rear drums interchangeable or is there a "right side drum" and a "left side drum?"

No they didn't. Did get a non-matching set, 8 of one style, 8 of another style that were very close. It was close enough to win a class in a show, one style on one side, the other on the opposite ;-) I finally got my old ones rechromed (very spendy).

I'm going to replace the old crusty piece that fits onto the solenoid anyway and then dig into the ignition switch to check it out. I remember it could shift a little to one side or the other; perhaps I didn't get it centered properly or it's just a bad one. Are they still available?

Thanks Roy. The click I'm hearing is the accessory relay that cuts out the accessory circuit when the key is moved from on to start. I'm not getting anything to the starter solenoid so I'm going to change the connector, and if that doesn't do it, pull the steering column shroud and check the ignition switch itself for continuity. I've had this problem ever since I had Nissan make a new key with their punchout device. I'm wondering if it just isn't turning far enough to make the contact. I have to pull the key out slightly to get it to turn at all. Now if I could just find my original ... stashed somewhere "safe" ....

I'll check those connections and replace the spade connector.

Ah Ha! That makes sense. Thank you!

The 1971 FairladyZ-L for a while would occasionally just make a single "click" relay-type sound somewhere under the dash when I turned the key to "Start" and the starter didn't do anything. I would turn the key off, and then try again sometimes with the same result. Usually it would work the second or third time and the starter would engage. We replaced the starter, the switch on the end of the ignition tumbler, and checked the battery. All those checked out okay. When it just made the click there wouldn't be any electricity at the starter solenoid b/y wire where it connected to the solenoid tab. I jumped from the battery to the solenoid and the starter worked. Now it doesn't work at all; just the "click" noise when I turn the key to start. The wiring diagrams I have don't show anything between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid except for a lock-out on a car with an automatic tranny; we have a factory 5-speed manual transmission. Something under the dash makes the "click" sound when I try to start the car with the key. What I should be looking for causing the problem of no electricity from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid? Thank you.

Cool! Thank you!

For my 1971 FairladyZ-L, what is the correct gear oil for the 5-speed transmission and rear end, not using synthetics? The book says Castrol HyPoy but that doesn't seem to be available ...

How can I disconnect the little plastic swivel joints in the throttle linkage to the carbs on a 1971 240Z? Do they pop off or ? Don't want to break them ... thanks!

I learned a neat little trick when trying to find the original color of an older Z car. USUALLY, when the total repaint is done (interior including,) they don't repaint the inside of the storage compartment lids under the rear deck carpet. Lift up the lid and look at the underside of it. It must might be the color you are seeking .... On ours it was ... Nissan 901 Silver.

Could someone post the corrections so we could have a reference like this in the future?

And dates based on Japanese nobility birth date ...

Sorry Alan; didn't mean to ruffle feathers. I've looked at literally a hundred sites on the Internet over the past 6 months for information on the 70-71 Zs, and the FairladyZ. Didn't remember which one (yup, it waz u,) but glad to hear the information is correct.

Good info; thank you! Did run across a production figure of somewhere around 2700 of the Z-L model for 1971, but I dont remember where I saw that figure. Does that sound "reasonable"? Yes, the problem in finding out a lot of JDM info is it is in Japanese (surprise) in Japan; the Z discussion groups, etc. And not reading or speaking Japanese or knowing anyone who does leave us wanting in that department. Info from people such as yourself who have it around is great.

What is important about the options and when/where they were added is when one puts the car in an ISCA show. Any "option" not installed at sale time, either by the factor or the dealer, is consider a modification. Wheels, etc., if not original, are mods. 0-3 mods is a conservative sports class, while more mods put it in classes further from the "original". The judges are influenced by being able to show that the headlight covers, for instance, are Nissan parts installed at the dealer at sale time, rather than considering them an aftermarket mod. Realizing not many people are concerned about showing the car in competition, I can understand why these "accessory adds" are not cared about very much by most. And that's why I'm trying to nail down the specifics about what was and was not offered or installed by dealers, as opposed to people installing their own "mods" NOS parts or not, after the car was purchased. Fun huh!

Is there any written record anywhere (broad term,) that one could obtain or access, which would track this S3005553 serial number (on the firewall - car has NO VIN number plate nor place for one,) from factory to wherever? The date stamps found so far point to a 10th day of the 5th month (assuming it means May 10 ... and probably 1971 as it is a 1/2 1971 car (unless that information is also incorrect,) as the assembly date. Any info on this specific car would be wonderful. I've had it for 30 years and haven't seen a single document relating to this option car, or the car itself, aside from the Oregon title.

It's nice to have the information; so "Luxury" or "Lux" or the same, is the "L" designation, which appears to be this model. It's a nice little "rally car", whatever the designation ..... Another piece of info I'd like to clear up is the horsepower. The engine block says "L20". The factory manual refers to an L20A engine with 115 horsepower. Other people say this engine is 130hp. Which is correct? It has the redline set at 7000rpm on the rpm gauge ... not the 6500 rpm I've seen on what, a '70 240Z? On something like that ... Soooo much information to sort through ... and thank you!!

This one has all the items listed here in the Z-L, except the rubber bumper, plus the tinted glass, underhood light, map light, steering wheel lock. The original color (found on the underside of the storage compartment lids,) seems to be Nissan 901 Silver. It did not have bumper overriders (has the factory plugs in the holes.) From what we have been told the headlight covers were installed when the car was sold at the dealer in Japan, as was the black front spoiler with tunnels for air to the brakes (maker unknown). It is thought the Carellos were also installed in Japan, at or shortly after purchase.

From the man at ZTherapy who's wife collects Nissan paper. He said it was an L type which was the rally option, which explained the rally clock and Type A 5-speed ... It been interesting trying to get info on the car; we've had just about every possible idea tossed out from all over the world. The L seemed to be the most logical. Would love to learn more about the car. Just located the name of the original US owner! Very much fun! And thank you all for your great information!!!!!