tranzor_Z

Ahh! This seems like a perfect opportunity to lay-forth some constructive criticism for individuals OLD to this site or any other car related sites. The regulars here will concur....OR they wont. I looked for the part that i needed on this site and a few others. I TRUST this site and I have been visiting here for quite sometime, a post count is a poor judge of how long someone has been a part of the "club" be that Z's or cars in general. I have been checking Ebay very often trying to maybe just find the part that i need, everyone is trying to sell the whole enchilada, i just need some bell peppers. I refuse to spend $70 on a part that should only be a few dollars. On the same note, yes I could go to say Z-Therapy or any other of a number of reputable Z shops on line or in my area. I however dont need a show quality part nor do I desire,as above ,to pay a lot for someone elses spare parts. I just wanted a simple part, if you want to lay down a rashin of poop do it to somebody else please. Like maybe the guy that wanted to put a V8 in an almost prestine Z. I appreciate your efforts but i think they are misplaced. Now that being said , The balance tube on the car now is from the '73. It is driving a pair of Weber DGV's, which until recently had been giving me a lot of problems. I figured out how to tune them and they run very well now. I have always been curious as to how the car would behave with SU's. And so when my friend said he was selling his SU's I jumped on them. I will include a picture of the SU balance tube I have and the DGV's I have. I have been told and seen on more than one occacion that this linkage and balance tube is not interchangable. Thats why i posted this.

Hey all, I am in need of the air balance tube for a '71. More importantly I need the linkage for that tube in particular (the short linkage). It seems the SU's I bought from a friend didn't come with this part and he has thrown out all his other stuff. Thanks guys.

I got them from a friend who switched to mikkunis a while back. Unfortunatley he's in the process of moving and has since thrown all the other bits away for the carbs. I'll try and get a hole of Z-therapy about the missing bits, i was going to get there video and rebuild kit anyway. Thanks guys.

I just recently accuired a set of '72 carbs with the manifold and air tube. In fact the only thing that the Carb setup i got didnt have is the linkage that connects on the airtube. Now, I know that the '73 linkage rod (which i also have) is longer than the '70-72. All i want to know is Can i use that '73 airtube and linkage with the '72 carbs? This would save me a lot of heart ache! Thanks all i want to get rid of these DGV's. -Steve

Those Weber books are just for Weber carbs thats it. As far as a difference in the carbs i'll let you know when i go to the SU's. -Later -Steve

But I have found two books that "help" at least for a tear down and very general trouble shooting step. 1. Weber Carburetors by Haynes, ISBN #1-85010-020-9 This book is ok, good detailed pictures and step by step how to. It doesnt directly cover the DGV but it does cover the DGAV, the auto choke version , which is similar in design and operation. 2. Weber Carburetors by HPbooks, ISBN # 0-89586-377-4 authored by Pat Braden. This book goes a really indepth on the history of Weber as a company and is an interestng read by itself. Again this book covers the DGAV but it works for both. Carbs are broken down bit by bit in a diagram provided by Weber along with picture breakdowns. I think the single most helpful tool for me so far has been the Synchrometer i bought on line at one of the Weber web sites. You also have to buy an adapter but you can tune the carbs very well with it, its very acurate. Right now I have them set at 7 kg/h which gives me a pretty good idle and is not too rich. Honestly if you want a Carb with a lot of support and can give performance I would just stick with the round top early SU's. This is what i'm going to eventually. If someone can run 12 second quarter miles on them with a little modification , they're good enough for me . Also there is A LOT of support for them. Good luck with the Webers and keep that Z on the road. Later , -Steve

Hey All, This isnt really a question so much as an observation. I have the Weber dgv conversion on my '73 240Z. After a few months of research, I thought I finally unserstood them enough to begin trying to tune them. I had done everything short of a complete rebuild and I still couldnt get the car to run quite right. There was a flat or dead spot at 3500-4500 rpm where the car seemed like it was going to die and then it would " come back to life" and open up. I always figured it was because they were progressive carbs and thats the way they are (this is my first carb'd car by the way). The other problem was the car would loose power at 5500 RPM and you could not accelerate past that. Today while changing the wheels on the Z, I saw something that a while back hadn't really clicked for me but now did. There was an electric fuel pump in the back of the car by the tank when i bought the car, but it wasnt hooked up. I thought about the problem again of power fall off at 5500 RPM and decided to clean the pump up and try using it. All I have to say is WOW. The car is completely different now with the addition of the second pump. I think this has something to do with the fact that now there is a constant head of pressure to the fuel manifold that isnt dependent on RPM as the stock mechanical pump is. All hesitation is gone, the car pulls hard well past 5500 RPM and is generally easier to drive. In retrospect I guess I should have thought about this problem sooner but figured I could take care of the problems with simple carb adjustments. There really is a large lack of information regarding the tuning of these carbs and the Weber books are sometimes hard for someone with limited knowledge on carbureators to understand. I think the next step I should take is adding a fuel pressure regulator and an MSD style ignition to keep the spark hot at higher RPM's. If anyone has anymore to add or questions about what i did , post up. -Thanks

Hey All, Well the beautiful Whidbey Island rain finally got to me this weekend while trying to work on the Z. Dry for over an hour, and as soon as i touched the car it started to rain again, its like it was waiting... So i decided to tear down the wall that the prior owner of my house had put up to make a heated living space. I guess i just wanted to see how other people on this board did things with there garage. I dont want to do anything too crazy , i was thinking of laying down some nice floor paint and building shelves but past that , i didnt really come up with anything fancy. Any ideas would be great, even the far fetched ones. :classic: Thanks -Steve

Hey All, I was wondering exactly how much air should be going through the Synchrometer. I have the adapter and the synch but no instructions. And the how to tune weber carbs book doesnt really go into specifics about using this thing. Thanks

Hey guys just wanted to let you all know that i figured out the 17mm thing night before last. I find it strange that in not one article or in the haynes service manual i have that it just doesnt say to turn the 17mm. Hmm, oh well i hope this might help someone in the future. The car is running absolutly fabulous now. It starts right up has a much smoother idle and the gas milage has gone up considerably just in the driving i have done since i got it done. Thanks to all the replies , i only hope i can learn enough quickly to help someone else out. Now on to tuning those darn dual Weber DGV's...sigh. -Thanks -Steve

I really appreciate all the replies. I noticed a few things in retro-spec while studying today. 1. I was trying to loosen the entire assembly via the 14mm adjusting nut. After i loosely put everything back together this hit me, DOH!:stupid: 2. I was being ultra gentle becase i didnt want to damage the componets, maybe i should just revert to blunt force. Break out the breaker bars. Again thanks for all the replies i wish i didnt have to study so much other wise i'd have this done, but i guess having a better job is worth it , then i can buy more parts for the Z. -Later, -Steve

Hey All, I was all set to adjust the valves on my bone stock '73 240z, however when i went to actually adjust one of the valves clearance i found that a 14mm was almost to the point of slipping off the adjustment nut. A 13mm is too small and just for kicks i tried a 9/16 its the same as the 14mm.:sleepy: . So i'm just wondering if i just need to use an adjustable wrench (which i would hate to do) or is there a special tool needed that is a 13.5mm or something. I guess i could try to file out a 13m so i get a tight fit. What i am really afriad of is round out the adjustment nut itself. Also from what i've checked all the intake valves were snug at .010'' but ALL the exhaust valves were way less than .008", hmm. I sure do need to get these things right. Any help will be very aprecctiated. -Thanks

I talked to slide squad dave about his dual exhaust exiting in the middle like that under the fuel tank , he said that it never gets too hot and he pushes that car HARD. I guess if you were really worried you could fix some sort of heat baffle between the tank and the piping.