lenponz

Late to the game but nice thread....... RichieG may I ask, Is the MSA inner/outer seal effective? Just checking my options... I'm doing the outer (1-piece MSA) now but have not purchased the inner, thats next. I did see the silvermine motors offers an outer seal that requires no glue, Has anybody used that Product????

https://www.newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=common/home They supply braided metric fuel hoses as well as JIS blots. FWIW: the top hose from the eVape tank to the fuel pipe is 22mm not 19mm as shown. I used a 7/8" fuel line w/no issues. Q: Has anybody put a metal eVape tank into a series 1??? I got a hold of a metal tank and couldn't make it fit.

From the specs the stock cam from a 260z marked “C” on the back is a good choice. E88 head u’ll need a spray bar. We used to gettem for the wrecking yards and use them on E31 heads no problem. of course you can go after market but that’s a whole different can of worms.

I’ve been told the after market match box do not work as well as a 12-80 from Nissan. I have a pertronix kit on my 240 which runs fine until you get to 5k rpms then I get a miss on it. A few other folks have had similar issues. I have started a collection of 80zx dizzy (3), two are Nissan types that need work the other is a rebuilt so I plan to make 1work somehow.

I think I am gonna try this thing. I have euro dizzy w/a pertronix and it sucks, misses on high rpm’s embarrassing. I have set the mech/vac set to 10/10. With point it’s fine to about 5400, but this set up sound really good.

I think they are BST type thread. I bypassed my intake, removed the back pipe and replaced the 3 way with a 2 and then plugged the thermo housing. Then left the manifold water ports opened. You can buy BST plugs amazon or at royal brass.

I'm in for a series 1 dash. ...Email Sent... i thought the frame was part of the dash ? does anybody have pictures? has anybody used this product??? https://datsunzfiberglass.wordpress.com/author/datsunzfiberglass/

Nice just like mine and within a month of build date. I would keep it. ...... & buy a car to play with imho

How much & Where r u located

I have the same issue, never thought of a helicoil thanks

By the way thanks for the info

I got the whole package a r200 clsd. I paid or it but what the heck those things are very rare, I couldn't pass it up.

I can't understand it either. I have a r200 diff and bought one of those finned covers. Now my transverse link will not go around it. (The bar that goes behind the diff.) I was wondering if someone makes that item so I could use the finned differential cover. Sorry about the poorly written post but I was getting distracted by the kids.

Does anybody make a transverse bar for a 280z that go behind the lower transverse bar??

call Z Therapy they can help anybody

The stamp with a "C" marking is what i use. Its off a 260 but it did have a bit more pep than an "A" cam. Externally oiled.. Cam Mark A C A Date all all < 8/81 Part # 13001-E4126 N3626 E4126 Intake duration 248 256 248 BTC intake opens 16 20 16 ABC int closes 52 56 52 Int center angle 18 18 18 Exhaust duration 248 256 248 BBC exh opens 54 58 54 ATC exh closes 14 18 14 Exh center angle 20 20 20 Lobe centers 109 109 109 Cam lift intake 7.35 7 7.35 Cam lift exh 7.35 7.35 7.35 Valve lift int 10.5 10 10.5 Valve lift exh 10.4 10.4 10.4

have u tried Gromm in San Jose. They did a perfect job on my E31 about 10 nyears ago and it still perfect. Do expect overnight work but what you get back is well wroth the price.

I agree with Mr. Iron that the 240z did not come stock w/a rear sway bar. The forwrd mount sway bar is surely an after market piece. The only problem with those kits is that the mount to the body must be beefed up inside the car. I bought a ST sway bar that mounts from the rear, very nice product. Very similar to the BRE.

I want one, How Much??

T-Man where did u get ur's moderenized, i'd like to look into that. ZK - I've seen the speed hut web site but was unaware they had a tach with built in indicators. Did the tach fit in the exisiting bezel? DO you have a part number. thanks for the infor.....

Chuck is right.... I've done the same by myself. Get the engine parts on, Heards, intake even the fan and drop it in.All u have to do is support the back of the motor at the right angle to get the tranny in. Once u get going its pretty quick.

Are there any tach upgrades available?? I see some have used Autometer 3990's 5" units. However you lose the turn signals and high beam indicator and the tach is to large to fix the bezel. Any other choices or ideas???????

thanks all for the feedback. Now i gotta get my piece parts cleaned up and coated so i can mount that R200 in my 71.

i am begining the process of replace my R180 w/a R200. I was able to get all the piece parts to start the process however my rear sway bar is aftermarket and it bolts to the plates that come down to secure the rear part of te A-Arm. Its a ST bar i bought a while back. With the R200 being a whole bigger it seems that the 280 parts wont allow the bar to bolted to its current location. i'd hate to have to buy a rear bar that bolts to the chassis directly since this one is clean. Has anybody ever had this issue when doing a R200 swap?

Here is my 2 cents. If you just want a header buy a MSA, they are good quality product for the price. If you want to get serious and performance try rebello or arizona Z, which is step up but you have to be very specific about how your engine is built to match the header with your engines capability and desired effect. If you want all out race type performance go see Stahl its the best product money can buy.