Cruez

If the powder was done correctly, it shouldn't have flaked off.. I have done periodic tests on my powder jobs with a hammer and it hasn't flaked yet. The only time you need to be a little more careful is with alloys that are needed for strength, such as billet wheels on a cycle or car. If there is a safety concern, I don't do the part. Cast aluminum and iron need to be outgassed before coating to get a good finish. I outgas parts that are cast (or I suspect are cast and machined). It doesn't hurt the metal its just a precaution to get a nice finish.

Just curious.... but what is wrong with powder coating??

After polishing a set of ZX rims for my wagon... I found out that polishing is very labor intensive. I had to polish them out to get some translucent powder shot on the lips of the wheels.. About 5 hrs or so on each wheel...

The car was bought back... It has some bad karma attached to it...really..

What did you use to fill in the gaps??

I guess I did post it again I'll try to find out where to get it... I have a few feet of it in the garage that my neighbor gave to me..

If you are good with an xacto knife. Some chrome tape would work well also. (just be sure the knife is sharp)

If you are sand blasting, you definately need hepa type mask that will not allow the silica dust in. (that type of sand is not recommended anyway)

Holy crap... That is the most bastardized Z I have ever seen.. I have never seen a Z with that many different parts from different models....EVER.. but.... it always could be worse..

I'll second that... I would depend alot on what color it is...

Thanks for the info... I haven't seen one with that many different abrasives... the ones I have seen were just a few of the most popular ones. I mainly use garnet or glass, depending on the material to be blasted..

I added one for my parking lights.

I started removing the tar mat a couple weeks ago to see the extent of my rust problem... It was around 30 degrees (F) in the garage when I started chipping away at it, comes off pretty easy... If the dry ice is that much colder, I would think that it would be the best route to go rather than the heat gun method.

My bet would be injected... much easier to tune. errr... scratch that.... to: More tunable

Nice. I wish the SCCA runoff Z's would have fared a little better..

Quite a few now coat the inside as well as the outside. Cooler temps and less to worry about rusting from the inside out.

I never thought about that until I watched a show the other day. A F4U was being started and it did sound similar

I put the "cherry bomb" type muffler in (the fiberglass cylinder type like you talked about) and they SUCK. I noticed a dramatic loss in power on my N/A built L28. It is coming off when the car goes back on the road.

Ahh.. I see.. I didn't do it that way.. I suppose if you want to keep your wiring and connectors in tact, a custom harness would be in order. Myself, I opened the harness by the frame rail and spliced in wiring for the relay setup in there, and upgraded some coming from the alternator at the same time. (and did the maxi fuse setup)

What about trying chrome tape... A roll of it isn't too expensive.

I've been watching all the SCCA races... TIVO'd for later

I just did this in my 280... What round connector are you talking about though?????

Nice work... the videos are very entertaining The guy who sold you that car under those pretenses needs to have his arse kicked. REALLY.

Nice videos... That thing looked like swiss cheese after the blasting.... :eek:

You could try flattening the caps with a big hammer