WyreTheWolf

Found a good pic of the wheels upclose... They are indeed Appliance wheels... Thanks for pointing me in the right directions everyone!

The center caps have either a stylized D in the center... Looks to be the same as the D in Datsun. Maybe that is a bit of help... Gary you are correct. The original hatch was replaced with one from a 71 quite a long time ago. The car (as far as I can tell) is all original other than the hatch not having the leaky vent hole. I believe that the wheels are period. But, I wanted someones elses opinion before I decided to restore the wheels as well.

I need to know more about the wheels that are on my 240Z. I am going through a restoration and I need to know if I should change the wheels, or stick with them. In the picture I didnt have the center caps installed. They are being rechromed at the time of the picture. Year: 1970 Model:240z Build date:5/70 SN: HLS30-04661 Image:

Well the trick is ... that all the wiring has been replaced, and the resister is no longer in the wiring diagram... I have it wired like a 280Z right now... that is the reason why the stock one isnt working... I looked at all of the internals... and not only is it possible to replace the inside... but it is going to be a drop in replacement... all the mountin is the same... so, I am just going to complete what I have already started on... this weekend I will test out the revised tach, and report back my findings.

Well, I found a 280ZX tach... I am going to take the 240Z tach, and the 280ZX tach apart, and use the needle, and body of the 240Z tach, and the internals of the 280ZX tach... that way the tach will match the EI system, and the tach face, and needle will match the speedo! Bit of a pain in the arse... but at least it should work properly.

Thanks for the advice! I read somewhere else on this forum about using WD-40, and cleaning the sockets out really well. As far as the fuse box... it is a new fuse bow... so, I dont have to worry about clean connections too much... The hadest part was replacing the right front subframe... I am not going to do that again... EVER! That was the only bit of bad cancer that was on the car... The rest is just light rust here, and there.

I ran into this site a while back... I am thinking about replacing all the lights on the 240Z that I own with LED lamps... they very rarely ever go out... and they use nearly NO power... http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR A nice blue glow from the dash does sound very nice!

Well, where do I start? First I guess I will say HI to everyone here... very nice site ... and the people seem to be quite helpful! Six months ago I started on a new project... A buddy of mine owned a 1970 240Z that was in bad need of some TLC... It had sat in the weather for 4 years (for unknown reasons) During this time the beautiful red paint was no longer beautiful, dry rot had set into the hoses, belts, and tires... But the absolute worst thing... The battery (still in the car) had leaked down the inside of the fender well, and down onto the right front frame rail... After surgery, involving many hours of removing body panels, and carefully cutting out origianl welds... I had the entire front frame rail (subframe) removed, and a new one was welded into place. Removed the stock ignition, replacing it with a 280ZX electronic ignition (which was simple, and straight forward). Now keep in mind that this engine had not been started in a VERY long time... and to tell you the truth I was worried. I pulled all of the spark plugs with new Denso spark plugs, put a good helpoing of Marvels' Mystery Oil in ech cyclinder, and let it sit... Two weeks later I get back over to my buddies house, and we get the starter hooked back up properly... at this point I am starting to really wonder if this car is really worth all of this work... I put the new battery in the battery tray (now replaced with a new one) Replaced a whole plethera of hoses, belts, and tires... Drop the key into the ignition, set the choke to full, and hit the key... It turned over a few times... but nothing... I try again... it turns over a couple of times... still nothing... I check the spark (the whole screw driver in a spark plug wire trick) I have spark, I have air ... but do I have fuel? OH NO!!!! one of the SU carbs is SOAKED in fuel... great... trace the leak back, and fix that (a bad hose ... one I actually missed while replacing all of them. Get back in the car... KEY... check! CHOKE... check! PUMP THE GAS ... check! turned the key... It turned over a total of one time, and started! So far I have the Engine running... but she (yes ... SHE... as nothing this sexy can be called HE, although I can see why some would choose to call a car HE.. I just cant bring myself to do it) is still not on the road... Tried getting the rear brakes apart... but the aluminum/steel problem faced me down... and won I am now looking into replacing the entire rearend (suspension and all) with the rear suspension from a 1983 280ZX ... that will also give me the added benifit of having rear disk brakes. had to replace the fuel hardlines, relace a broken brake line... bleed the brakes, and the clutch lines... after finishing all of that... I got to the brake lights... they dont work ... at all! the fuse box has the same melted out section that I have heard about from so many people ... but I have a spare fuse box... The electrical is still fighting with me ... and I have not had the chance to drive the darned thing yet... but after so many months of working on her... the time is rapidly approaching. This is something else that I have found odd... After replacing the Ignition system ... the tach doesnt work at all anymore... it pegs out while I am starting the engine... and then hits 0... I want to keep the stock look... is there any kind of a trick to getting the stock Tach to work properly again? I will try to keep this post up to date as I continue to rebuild this most beautiful of cars... Cant wait to take her for a quick drive!