speedyblue

There was someone selling two doors for $100 in the latest parts peddler magazine. Slightly better deal than that.

You better pu tyour glasses on Alfa. I was quoted $600 for a set of new flat top pistons for the L28, but I didn't lok extremely hard. I couldn't get a price from nissan because I didn't know the part No. but one of the Z car shops was able to give me a price. Good luck with it. Scott

The Radiator fits with the relocating of a few holes, but hangs lower. I am also going to try fit the electric mirrors. They are easy to remove, and wire back up, plus the switches can be put anywhere.

WOW! That is a big cash cow. Considering what else you could get for the same money. It's got the same interior as my parts car.:sleepy: Very red. Don't know if I could put up with it all the time. Still if someone is willing to fork out the dough, good luck to him. I wonder how much Sir Sidney adds to the price??

That's fairly detailed for a the type of picture it is. What game is that from? Look like something of a GTA type game. Cool!

Got them all. After using everything I could find that might do the trick, I settled on the most useful thing I have access to: my father. As the saying goes, bigger, stronger, more facial hair. He managed to get the two remaing clips out using a hammer, a screwdriver, a set of pliers and brute strength. Very handy to have around.

So far I am having problems with those little clips that hold the cable to the hanger. I can't get the pliers to the two over the diff. I can't lever them off with a screwdriver either. Plus it is about 8 degrees outside, which makes it that much worse.

I am trying to remove the handbrake cable from my 240z. I have discovered this is more difficult than I thought. So far I have dropped the tailshaft to get better access, but was hoping someone would have some tips/tricks in getting the thing out. Reason for removal: It is broken. Thanks Scott

How about taking the butterflys out of all the carbs and making a slide throttle between the carbs and manifolds, like on the old racing porsches. Not the most reliable for a daily driver. (Grit tends to jam up the sliding plates) But still something different, and bound to get a second look anywhere.:sleepy:

Zed's make a great first car. Smaller than a family car, not gutless like a small car. Getting a road ready one might be a better option than a fixer upper. Some of the people on this site haven't driven theirs in years, me included. Always seems to take longer to fix than you expected.

They have IRS and an R200. Normally with 3.9 gears in OZ spec ones.

Depends if you are intending to run the fuel injection, or stick with the carbs. The dizzy and coil are all you need I think. (The module is attached to the dizzy) You just have to run a wire from the '+' side of the coil to the module as well. Points distributors didn't have this. Have fun.

My car had one of those when I got it. It had accumulater quite a lot of grease/dirt/crud on it. I took it off when I added a swaybar. Didn't see the advantage of it. Mine had larger holes towards the front of it though. Did all cars come fitted with these?

Found a local wrecker with a 1985 R30 Skyline sedan. Went and checked it out. Drum Brakes. Turns out the sedans still had rear drums, but the hatches had rear discs. Go figure?

It looks too much like an add on. Like it was never there in the first place and has been tacked on. Others look as though they could have come from the factory with them fitted, but not this one. My thoughts.

I pulled the discs and calipers off the rear of my 83 280zx last night as well as the handbrake cable ready to do the big swap. I have the knowledge in my head, now all I need is the brackets. Time to find out if the skyline ones are the right stuff. I will also need to get the drums off. They have been un-movable for a few years, so it may prove difficult. Lucky I'm in no hurry. Don't know if the hand brake cable will fit, but the 240Z one snapped a few years ago, so it is worth a try. Otherwise will have to get a new one. Never know if you never try. Also, once the discs were removed, I could still bolt the wheels on the 280zx, which makes it HEAPS easier to more around still. Beats skull dragging it.

I agree 100%. I couldn't believe the garbage in there. Really, the last thing teenage boys need is more WAM. Almost more emphasis on Girls than cars. Hopefully another mag will get hold of that car in the future and do better.

I really like what he has done with the car. Fitting Late model Skyline brakes all around, modifying and using pretty much the complete driveline. All the thought and work that went into it. Looking at it from the outside, it almost appears to be a stock machine, but pop the hood and that changes fast. I like the dash, considering his options. The skyline has a few more gauges than the 240z, so he would have has to tack extra gauges on in the interior anyway. The wheels don't look quite right, but how many 18 inch mags around come in a style that suits the Z. In the end, it is his car to fix up as he chooses. I bought mine from a wrecker and will modify it how i want too. In the end, the whole thing comes down to personal perception. I too thought the actual article was a bit average, but flicking through the whole mag, it is consistent. Not up to the par you get in the Street Machine Mags, where they did a thing on the blue 240Z with the RB30 about 4 years back so luckily I only got it for the one article. My thoughts only.

I just finished wrapping my up in black conduit to make it neater under the bonnet, so a short while ago, it would have been perfect to take photo's of. Always the way. Good luck with it.

Got my self a degree in civil engineering, and I have been working as one for 3 years now. Still haven't gotten close to paying it off yet. Was one of about 3 that were driving 240z's to uni as well I think. Never met the others though.

The 240K Should be a great little rally car. The 4.4 on to the 240K conversion must be popular because I have chatted to a few people who have done one, plus my old man bought a 4.4 for his Rangie, and it came from a 240K. I was ready to jump on this one just for the engine and gearbox to put in my TR7 but looks like I was beaten to it big time. The alloy V8's weigh 15kg less than the cast iron 4 pot in the Triumph, so they must weigh heaps less than the L6. Have fun with it. Scott

Actually, on some now the constant 12V wire powers the radio, while the wire to the ignition acts as a trigger wire to turn it on and off. It lets you turn the ratio on with out the keys. Mine comes on and off with the ignition, but can be turned on and off manually, with out the ignition on. Good idea as far as I'm concerned. The yellow wire should ge to a constant 12v source.

A test light would be really useful as well. Helps you know what wires are live and what isn't. Also helps finding a wire that comes on with the ignition. It's a definate for working on anything electrical in a car. I have used an electric jigsaw, and an angle grinder very carefully when installing car stereos, as well as a bastard file for clean up. Good luck.

It will work in your car. Firstly, is the hole in the dash large enough to fit the CD player, or do you need to enlarge it to make it fit? I rewired mine when installing, because the original wires were designed to drive a low powered stereo, and your new one is a high powered CD player with a colour screen, and hence will struggle on the bass notes (turn it up and the screen will dimm with each beat) Run a new thicker wire from somewhere, with an inline fuse. And add a new ground wire, fixed to a clean ground area. Good idea to re-new the speaker wires as well. Get a mate who knows what he is doing to show you and spend the time doing it right. I skimped timewise on one thing on my last stereo install and now I have to fix it. Have fun. Scott

I believe there was a poll taken on this point. Find it, and the discussion should answer any questions.