speedyblue

They have really got to do something. But nothing is going to happen while they stick to the speed kills slogan. I have seen it in a few of my friends (strangely enough mostly female)the attitude that once you get your license you know how to drive. After a few years of driving they come to realise how much they can't drive. (Most do anyway) One who was a real leadfoot rolled her car with her sister in it ( didn't suprise anyone). They were both ok, but her sister didn't learn a thing from it and speeds along narrow country roads, blind corners and all. Last time I was ever a passenger in her car. Why is it that every young guy gets his license and wants to buy a Commodore or a turbo vehicle. It is absolutely stupid. Fortunately I can't comment on my own skills, because I can't observe my own driving independently. I know I drive fast. That is why I stopped driving my 240Z 18 months ago and bought a fourby that I don't drive over 80kph. But the Z is going to be on the road again soon so I am really going to have to show some restraint. The Gold Coast coppers are getting pretty tight with it all, and with all the tools doing 1 wheel doughnuts in their VK commodore wagons with multi colour panels, I don't blame them.

Thailand has a good selection of bad beers. It was a pretty random guess at what the alc. content would be though. They had Leo (lion) beer, and also super Leo. Same beer, just more alcohol, and the standard leo was a full strength to begin with. Definate hangover material.

I will get my 240z back on the road this year! I am mid way through a bit of a fix-up involving installing an L28 and gearbox from a 280zx, and adding a G-nose to boot. After that will be some rear disks (once again courtesy of the 280zx) and possibly even some better front breaks. As well as an even louder stereo. Here's to hoping.

The Solex lock are great things, but a word of warning, file off the little locating pin on the key so that it looks like the emergency key that comes with the locks. The lock can quite easily move in the barrel, causing the pin to not line up and the key to not go in. Nothing like climbing in through the hatch to get home, and then out the window to get the emergency key. If you lock them by pushing down the inside lock, then it can be unlocked that way, BUT if you lock it with the key from the outside, no amount of pulling at the lock thing on the inside will unlock it, hence having to get out through the window.

Sounds like it may be starving for fuel. It might be worthwhile to replace the fuel filter and check the flow from the pump. If the rubber hoses are breaking down from the inside or something, that would cause a problem too. It would seem there are a lot of people out there running tuff engines with twin SU's, so there should be no reason why you cant join them.

I have Never seen another 240Z in the Broadwater carpark, not that I frequent it all that much anymore. I used to idle through there every now and then but my Z hav been off the road for 16 months now. Should be back on in a month or two though, depending on when I pull my finger out and get to it. I actually cruised through there in my soft top International Scout the other weekend and there seemed to be more Jap bikes than cars. It was schoolies though, so most probably opted to cruise further inland.

Kings never sold superlows for the 240Z because it would be sitting on the bump stops with them in. The Z struts are pretty close to being fully compressed as is and the extra 50mm bottoms them out, plus because it is a stiffer shorter spring they aren't captive when you jack it up. I had a chat to them about this a while ago. Competent suspension shops (ie not pedders) can cut your struts open and insert a block of some sort to stop the strut extending so far, hence keeping the springs captive. I think I was quoted under $500 for new low kingsprings, new munro shocks, installation, plus shortening the struts and lower the 'Spring mounty thingy' to lower it all to the legal level(100mm allround). It would have thrown the camber out too much though so I never got around to it. Has anyone fitted those K-mac adjustable strut tops to a Z-car? They would fix it perhaps. Are they even available for a Z-car?

I think the concern with the handbrake cable is it is too short and won't reach to the 280zx caliper. Two options I have heard to fix this: 1. Put the left caliper on the right side and the right caliper on the left side, but this leaves the bleed screws on the bottom. 2. Extend the cable. I am working up to this conversion at some stage. I have the discs and calipers but haven't go the brackets yet. Since I have a whole 280zx for parts, I was going to see if I can use the handbrake cable from that as mine has snapped and hence needs replacing. If you haven't had your stock brakes fade yet then you just haven't been driving hard enough.

Not interested in thermo fans? Think about how much power it takes to spin the fan at 8000rpm (the front pulley is larger than the water pump one, hence gearing it up) There will be a few kilowatts there. If quarter mile times are what you are after, the heavier flywheel will be what you are after. The extra mass rotating helps on gear change and take off, but if you are track racing, lighter is better. Flat top pistons, like those in the P90 block give the 10:1 comp ratio, so yours may be less. Remember, if you put a new head on with a half worn set of rings, the rings will wear out faster. but by the sounds of it, your rings are sealing fairly well.

I'm running them on a 6 inch rim and they go great The tread wear is farily even. It did wear out in the centre first by about 2mm but it was probably because of overinflation (35~38psi) I had to lip the rear guards a little, but it only took the use of a block of pine and a rubber mallet. Looks tough though.

I was running 215/65's on mine and the front rubbed on that lower panel at the front. Bent it out of the way and had no problems with it since. Now I'm running 235/60's all round but I have noticed one thing. As you go wider, it grips worse in the wet. Hot rodders had some sort of 'rule of thumb' about width versus weight, and once it is exceeded the load is spread over too greater area or something. OK in the dry though. But I do remember the nice wet day I had with a rather past it L24 engine. Spin through first, slam into second and keep her going. 80kph and still fishtailing down the Gold Coast Highway in the morning traffic. Good if you are ready for it, very bad if you are not. But Alas, now I am fitting a nice G-nose and in a trial fit, noticed that the big feet will no longer fit. And I really loved the stance of wide rubber hanging out the front too.

Pinging is bad because it is the first sign of detonation! Very bad for an engine. It is a souund that can be heard from the engine. The engine would be most likely to ping going up a hill at low revs (about 1000rpm or so working hard) with the accelerator to the floor. Hard to explain what it sounds likethough. If your car pings, back the timing off a degree or two. There should be a little metal tab on the block right near the front crank with numbers on it. It may be dirty and need to be rubbed with a rag to see the numbers clearly. Something like this. ^^^^^^^^^ l 8 6 4 2 0 2 4l l-----------------l plus it may have a little 'F' and 'A' or perhaps different to specify degrees before and after top dead centre.

Well I checked the 280zx out and it ranged from 140 to 150 so it looks like the brakes aren't the only thing being scavenged from it. One engine swap to go.

Have you got a manual for it? It helps with all the technical data. Leaving all the water pipes disconnected from the intake keeps the manifold cooler, giving more power. (Just a little though) There are two bolts you can loosen to adjust the timing. Undoing both should give heaps of allowance. I actually replaced my points dizzy with an electric one from a skyline with the L24E motor. Cost $110 AUS but well worth it. Virtually never needs adjusting now, whereas the points needed it every few months. You wil need a timing light to set the timing, with the vacuum advance hose Disconnected.

there is a Toyota 4x4 wrecker up here, which I rung a while ago. They have then there, but they didn't know anything about bolting them to a 240Z. I didn't know much about it either, but I am a bit better informed now.

Just because it is a smoker, doesn't mean the compression should be shot. The two top rings on the piston are the ones that keep the compression above the piston, while the two thin lower ones with the funny spring spacer thingy keep the oil out. Sometimes they can wear strangely, so the oil rings are shot, but the compression rings are still good. Either that or your sump is pressurised somehow, helping the oil get past. I have never really thought about removing/replacing hot bolts or plugs. But the expansion that goes on is very small, and both would expand a little, but at different rates. I guess seeing as the plugs still go in easily, there can't be too much damage going on. That is how I tested mine. Warmed up the engin for 10-15 minutes, took out all the plugs, plus disconnected the power to the coil. Hold the throttle wide open, plus prop the su carb piston open so it doesn't hinder air flow. You don't have to take all the plugs out, you can do it one at a time, just make sure you disconnect the coil so it doesn't start up.

And that was cold did you say? Warm the engine up and it will be higher again. Well I guess that means I will have to do something about that. I will have to check the other engine I have and see what it comes up to. Hopefully better than 100.

I just checked the compression in my engine with a compression gauge, holding the carb open and the throttle flat to the floor with a warm engine. Came up at 100 in all cylinders. Is this good for a stock L28 with a 8.3:1 static compresion ratio? I have a feeling it should be higher. Any ideas?

Looks like I'm going to have to visit the toyota wreckers and have a bit of a chat. There was a really good article on the web somewhere where someone goes through the toyota conversion in pretty good detail, but I can't find it anymore. It included details like what number would be on the calipers, including the different number for the 'wide' caliper to fit the vented discs. If anyone knows the site it would be really helpful. Thanks Scott

OK I have searched a few web sites but I still can't find exactly what I am after. I want to put the Toyota 4 spot with vented disks on the front and a 1982 280zx setup on the rear instead of the drums. I have a complete 1982 280zx to steal stuff from, so I can get rear discs and calipers and master cylinder/booster if needed. I would also like to use the handbrake cable off the 280zx because my 240Z one has snapped clean. Making up any brackets/spacers won't be a problem. Is the backing plate detailed in the IZCC 240sx brake upgrade the same as the one I will need? I am not sure of the similarities between these as we don't have 240sx's over here. What Australian cars do the Toyota calipers come from and what else do I need? What year 300zx discs must I use. If anyone can point me in the right direction before I start pulling things apart, it would be very much appreciated. Also, will the stock nissan six spoke alloys off the 280zx fit over the toyota caliper setup? I like the look of them, but if they have to go, they have to go. Thanks Scott

Both of them have the L28 engine in them. Same block and head numbers. So they are the same engine, just different intake.. The old L24 did seem to rev harder, but I got rid of that over 18 months ago. Sorry for any confusion. I was wondering it it had something to do with the carbie butterflies being closer to the head than the throttle body on the fuel injected engine.

How does the fuel injection go performance wise, against the twin carbs though? I was thinking about this change also, but the fuel injected engine in the 280zx I got doesn't seem to have the throttle response of my 240z with th4e l28 and twin carbs. Both have a 2.5 inch exhaust, while the 280zx has a pod filter and the 240z has the stock orange filter and cover setup. I can't compare performance wise because ot the extra weight of the 280zx, but the engine just doesn't seem as angry.

another pic. Not too badly damaged really, but needs fixin.

I just picked up my second Z car. A 280zx that my mate crashed. Got it for a bargain, but I will need a bonnet, left hand guard front bumper and headlight surround. I couldn't just let it go to the wreckers, it will be a great car for my Mum to drive aaround. Plus it will stop my 240Z from getting lonely in the garage Can anyone help me!!