speedyblue

Bought mine in Jan or Feb 1998, and it has been a daily driver since, except for the year I gave it off. Boy was that a dumb idea.

source them from overseas. shox.com, and xshocks.com I used both. My tokico's from OS cost less than kyb's from here did. Or try a z specialist here in OZ, they may be able to help.

260DET has this one I believe http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/diff.htm $1450 AUS but it's for an R180 only.

I have 195/70's on 280x 6 spokes and they dont grip too well, especially in the wet. You can fit a 235/60 on the rear but on the front a 235 will hit the spring perch. My guards are lipped though to fit 235's on a 0 offset rim. Not sure if they fit dead stock guards.

Sorry, I'm a little vauge on exact details because my father waffles on lots and I tune out a fair bit. On the Rover SDI cars, the 79 model had a high compression motor with twin SU's. 2 inch I think. They look like the Z ones, but are bigger and heavier. Then in the 80's, the compression was dropped and the carbs were changed to the strombergs. You can pick up a set of the SU's with manifold (for the rover engine) to 'suit rebuild' for $250. The Rangie was never a performance car, so I guess it never got the good carbs. My father was talking to one of his mates about them and they were comparing them to some Aussie muscle car and realised they were the same carbs. Not sure which car, but pretty sure it was holden. Might have been a factory backed race thing though because his friend was a mechanic for a bathurst team many years ago.

Don't do it, those carbs are garbage!! My father has owned 3 range rovers and a rover car or two and by switching from the strombergs to the british SU's found on the earlier rovers (pre pollution) he gained power, and got better fuel ecconomy. This has been on two different engines, in two different cars. Currently, they are on a 4.4L leyland engine in his Rangie, and that thing can drag off little buzz boxes at the lights quite easily. They probably won't help you car much, if at all. Also, the earlier SU's are the same ones used on Toranas and such.

Did you even read the above posts???? ^^^ Two racers said don't touch them!! Plus Jmortensen recommended two good quality set-ups to go for as well.....

If you get a 240Z, ditch the points dizzy for an electric one. I drive my Z to work every day, which involves windy roads through the hills and sitting in traffic and I have never had much trouble wih it. I'm running an electric fuel pump too. The car always starts straight away and hopefully, will keep going strong. Only problems are rust and rattles.

Well, call me crazy, but all my parts are stored on the car. Makes it heaps better when it driving it to work. OK, I have two sets of wheels and a G-nose in the garage too.

I'm running ST's and wish they were a little stiffer. The tokico's work well with them though. I bought my Tokico's from Xshocks.com, AKA jdmwerks. I had a query about shipping prices and didn't get any reply to emails, so I just rung them up. Got it all sorted straight away. Shocks arrived in the mail a week or two later (Air mail to Australia)

My car is a pig to look at. Up close the panels don't line up spot on, there are a few rust bubles, and there are two different shades of blue (oh so close though) plus the dinged guard from some random carpark dweller. But I drive it every day. Mechanically it is spot on and I never have a problem with it. It's been modified a bit for more performance and is great fun driving. My mates keep asking me when I'm gong to re-paint it, but I'd rather spend the money on a turbo conversion, some big brakes and some subframe connectors and leave it looking a bit ugly. It's your car, enjoy it and don't worry what everyone else tells you to do with it. They can get their own and build it to suit their tastes.

I'm pretty sure I've seen this show already. The Z won't be number 1, but another Jap sports car is right at the pointy end, probably in the No 1 spot, can't remember. Actually, I didn't think it was all that great. McLarens and Enzo's are good, but there is a few weird inclusions in there and they keep on re-hashing things and using the same camera shots 6 times over. OK for the absent minded yanks, but gets a bit dull for us Ozzys LOL

AM or PM? I think we have a TV guide, but I have never read it.

Who is AQIS? I'm guessing quarantine. They will take 3 days from when called to turn up, probably ask for it to be washed, then tahe another 3 days to re-inspect. Some cars they are happy with and dont' need a wash (rare) and others need a second wash (also rare). I'm still waiting for my car to arrive, so I know the happiness you must now be feeling. Good luck with it.

Find a car where the springs are midway along the control arm, instead of at the hub like on the Z. The lever effect means the actual spring rate may be about 300lb/in but the rate at the hub is only 150lb/in. Find one that is the right size, might be hard finding one with long enough springs though.

Check 260DET's gallery. I like his. Doesn't block rear vision. Cops like ticketing cars for obstructed vision over here.

My Feb 73 240z has single sided ignition key, and a double sided key for doors, hatch, glovebox and fuel flap. Couls be an Aussie thing. I'm lucky to still have the original Nissan ones too.

Funniest is "Cl***ic Z car club" that has appeared elsewhere.

OK, just worked out our printer is a scanner too, and it's easy to use, so here's a scan of the thing.

Go to an auto electrician and tell them what you want. Most have a bunch of different length, pre-made cables hanging on the wall ready to use, and they are normally a good price. I they don't have something to suit, they will make you one up. Won't be OEM, but will get everything back and running good, plus be hassle free.

I just got the March Street Machine and low and behold, the expression session is a Z with the top cut and a big V8, as in a different approach on Shelby's Cobra, ie stuffing a big engine into a little car. Nothing new there, but one thing mentiones in the write up if stuffing a Supra turbo independent suspension under the rear because it goes really close to bolting up. First I heard of this. Anyone else read it yet??? I'll see if I can scan the article.

Pfft Amature I have the Z as a daily driver, Scout as the weekend car (pic in gallery) a TR7 vert that is getting some serious modifications (more monster that car) a 19foot wakeboard boat that hasn't run in 2 years (brings a tear to my eye) and a black 73 vert vette that should arrive any day now from sunny California. I really need to simplify my life..... Lucky the Z doesn't need much up-keep. The key is to pick one thing at a time and go with it. While you are at work, plan what you will do when you get home, then when you are at home, hit it. Once the Z is done, you'll be loving it because it's cheaper than the vettes, so you can throw it about more without worrying about it so much.

I did the rings, big ends and gaskets on mine. Didn't even remove the crank. Had to replace a burnt valve or 2. I think it cost under $200 aall up for a running engine. I didn't use silicone on the front cover though, and ended up with a pretty bad oil leak, and the rings didn't seal too good. I think my compression was about 120 even accross the cylinders, but I learnt heaps and enjoyed the time spent doing the rebuild and it ran OK apart from an exhaust manifold leak. Have fun with it.

No, but I ghost a few others.

OK, this is a bit hazy, but it's what I remember from chatting to my mate, who works for K&J here on the coast. Copper is better than Al for heat dissipation. Al will last longer. Early copper radiators had inefficient fins running through the tubes, hence the Al radiator was more efficient and cooled better. A newer (better designed) copper radiator will work better than the same thing made in Al, but will be heavier. Also to note, black is the best colour for transferring heat, silver is the worst. Lastly, a 280zx radiator will easily fit into a 240Z, but the bottom tank will hang down by 4cm approx. I have sat in traffic for an hour in 25 degree heat with one 12 inch thermo with the temp gauge just over half way, no thermostat. FWIW Scott